look at Simukit.com, if you're in the EU you can get a seat mover for 590€
look at Simukit.com, if you're in the EU you can get a seat mover for 590€
Bits a kit, but very doable with everything included (Arduino, motors, cables,...)
Bcan handle 120kg so fixing a joystick and throttle should be doable
Pooooh that sounds doable! not right now, got a few other things I wana do first, ffb rudder & yoke, plus I need to do a couple PC upgrades too
Blife is about choices 
JJust started looking into these for the workbench. Seems most pit builders that are posting have decided 40w is what is needed for panel building to cut acrylic. Very interested in hearing other experiences with this.
KFor cutting acrylic a 40W Co2 laser is superior since it can cut clear acrylic and a diode laser like this can only cut colored acrylic. I have a Co2 laser as well, but it's upkeep and tuning is significantly more cumbersome so I vastly prefer to use the diode laser where possible. For cutting thin plywood, engraving / cutting dark acrylic, cutting templates the diode is just so much better. Co2 needs water cooling, mirror alignment on an invisible beam, and getting the focus perfect is a chore.
YThat does look interesting.
I would want one I could cut aluminum/steel with though.
Having spent almost zero time looking into it, is there even an option?
I would want one I could cut aluminum/steel with though.
Having spent almost zero time looking into it, is there even an option?
KTo actually cut metal, you'd need a high power fiber laser. I have a low power fiber laser that can mark aluminum and steel (and any metal) but cutting is a whole 'nother ball game. I can make the little serial number aluminum badges like you see on the side of the Rhino, but cutting that out of a sheet of aluminum would take a multi-ten-thousand dollar machine. Jobs like that are better suited for plasma cutters or waterjets. For me, using services like send-cut-send or bigbluesaw are the best bet when large metal cuts are required. I have a large CNC machine, and use it when doing complex jobs, but for sheet aluminum / steel (like the frame of a joystick) using the online services is just so easy.
A@walmis Hi Walmis, is it by any chance possible to purchase the two toothed wheels and the belt from you, or at least know where to obtain the belt? I'd like to power pedals with your motor kit and (if possible) also a steering wheel. I also saw a mention about a printable physical stop/limiter of the throw. Where can I find that, or at least a photo of the design?
ADisregard the second question. I found the limiter. Thank you for that option. Will help a lot
KThe belts are HD5 and available everywhere. Similarly you can find HD5 pulleys from eBay and AliExpress for very little cost. The size is not critical as it’s configurable.
AThanks, will have a look
MThe belts are HTD 5m, 9mm width
KYes, I forgot the T, thanks for the correction.
V:package: 
RHINO #0085 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0085 Has Shipped!
WAfter some advice. I currently have a kit using the largest motors. Using a 5.7:1 ratio I need about 7kg of pull for full deflection at the handle ~400mm from pivot point.
WI'd actually like a little more, and was considering adding a 3:1 gearbox. I'd need to change the small pulley to around 20T or even larger. Which would give me a ~12:1 ratio.
WI use my stick for both fixed wing and helis though, and I would like the stick to fall under it's own weight for helis. eg very little resistance. Guess my question is, how much gearing is too much ?
WShould I use a larger gear reduction and smaller pulley?
WOr should I scrap the whole idea!?
Jwhen in doubt throw more motors at the problem
Jtoo much gearing? not enough motors 
WWell I can’t add bigger motors. So have to rely on gearing. I’d like more power but don’t want to sacrifice the cyclic feel for helis.
KPersonally I'd try single stage at 10:1 first, but parallel motors on a single axis is an intriguing idea.
JMy answer was more intended to not be taken seriously. Reminded me of this youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/@BrickExperimentChannel which handles gears and motors extensively and how they solve a lot of problems in their experiments
YouTube
I do nerdy experiments with Lego bricks :)
FAQ
Q:Where do you buy your Lego from?
A:www.bricklink.com
Q:Can you give me the building instructions for X?
A:No, sorry. The video description may contain a list of parts.
Q:I see Finnish products in your videos. Are you from Finland?
A:Yes. Kyllä, olen suomalainen.
Q:How big is your Lego collectio...
FAQ
Q:Where do you buy your Lego from?
A:www.bricklink.com
Q:Can you give me the building instructions for X?
A:No, sorry. The video description may contain a list of parts.
Q:I see Finnish products in your videos. Are you from Finland?
A:Yes. Kyllä, olen suomalainen.
Q:How big is your Lego collectio...
V:package: 
RHINO #0088 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0088 Has Shipped!
AThe bot seems to be stuck somehow. It's been showing 82 shipped for a few days now.
WThanks, should be fixed now
AWorks now. Thanks and you're welcome :)
JGetting awfully close to mine
RYup, just got my invoice. Paying tomorrow. can't wait.
B98 more to go for me, lol
S376 Rhinos to go! 
but I know it will be worth it when the time comes!
Phi, @walmis, how are ya..
wondering if you had a chance to look at the Mossie yet.
Wanted to bring up a following point when dealing with the curves and your comment that small inputs will cause large outputs: Mosquito's full range of Y axis motion (elevator) is very high, to the point where such high elevator deflection actually serves no purpose during the flight/operation of the aircraft. Meaning there's no practical reason for reaching 1:-1, or even 0.5:-0.5. If you introduce a saturation and the ability to make the curves even flatter then it can possibly be a solution for this bird. The main problem here, obviously, is that it'll be a Mossie specific solution only..
wondering if you had a chance to look at the Mossie yet.
Wanted to bring up a following point when dealing with the curves and your comment that small inputs will cause large outputs: Mosquito's full range of Y axis motion (elevator) is very high, to the point where such high elevator deflection actually serves no purpose during the flight/operation of the aircraft. Meaning there's no practical reason for reaching 1:-1, or even 0.5:-0.5. If you introduce a saturation and the ability to make the curves even flatter then it can possibly be a solution for this bird. The main problem here, obviously, is that it'll be a Mossie specific solution only..
P
SDoes MSFS support FFB? One of my biggest reasons for wanting it is for Reno
SJeez thats double mine! I get that @walmis is building them as fast as he can. I’m just hoping theres a way to ramp up production soon!
Anot out of the box, right now you have to use a third party app, costs a few bucks, and does take a bit of work and configuration to feel good, but not gonna be as good as like, F-14 in DCS or even most of the IL2 planes
SStill beats my current setup of t16000m fcs i bet lol
Aoh no doubt
Aand even if you can't get the settings right, you can still just make the rhino feel really nicely dampened in a way that no spring based joystick out there (even with dampeners) will feel like
Alike, i'll never want to play a flight sim without the rhino or something equivalent again tbh
TWould it be a good idea to set up a profiles channel for us to post each other profiles with the filenames:
T{Username}{GripName}{SimulatorName}{ModuleName}{mm-dd-yy}
TTLike that?
PWalmis is working on adding msfs2020 support to his telemetry app. So eventually we can just use that which I think will be a lot better than XPForce or whatever other options might be out there.
SHow hard is it to build myself from the kit. I really want to get using an FFB stick and I have the time for a little project. Only issue is that I have very little DIY and electronics experience/knowledge.
Jprobably pretty hard if you don't have any prior experience, knowledge, or tools
Sanyone currently adding FFB to their mfg crosswinds? 
would love to follow along
would love to follow along