if i hold the button on d2 i get no lights, i can get 27 to light while holding d1+d2, and 28 while
if i hold the button on d2 i get no lights, i can get 27 to light while holding d1+d2, and 28 while holding d2+d3..
Scant really eliminate the 9pin, wont be able to climb in/out of this simulator
Si have to yank the joystick to get out
S
TJust for testing purposes I mean, get it working and then work additional complexity in.
TTI ended up rewiring my plugs and reconnecting and send/save a new config and it worked.
TI’ve got to hop off, but hope you can figure it out. Keep us posted!
Swill do, thanks for the tips!
PHey m8, those spring detents on your logitech tpm are they your design or did you get them somewhere?
Stheres no springs, i took em all out
SOH the quadrant
Syeah i put em on thingiverse
SThis is a travel limiting stop for the Saitek flight simulator quadrant. Prevent accidental thrust reversing at bottom throttle! With a light pull of the tab you can bump the lever down to hit the switch.
I used this spring kit:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RXV6WH2
print in orientation shown with support.
Also included is flap and landi...
I used this spring kit:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RXV6WH2
print in orientation shown with support.
Also included is flap and landi...
Poh cool cheers m8
Sjust added the 2nd version to it that has a stop tab on the side, you just put in a m3 cap screw into the plastic as a 2nd stop. works great for thrust reverse etc
Psory I can't picture what you mean?
Poh nvm I see the screw in the pic
PI get what you mean
S
Sthe one on mixture is for turboprop idle condition
Sdammit, now i think i killed a usb board 
5v touched cs line by accident, fuck me.
5v touched cs line by accident, fuck me.Sgoing to bed, i think ive broken enough for one night
W5V shouldn't kill it
Wbut might damage that pin, though
SIDK how far you've come since but my issue was actually the USB hub I had it plugged into, for whatever reason it wasn't giving it enough juice and caused a lot of weird issues.
SAll my multimeter testing was ok at the Rhino, because my problem was elsewhere, so even if you aren't using a hub try swapping ports to a different controller on the PC or connect it directly if you aren't, remove or swap out any type of USB extensions etc.
R@walmis I’ve been having trouble getting force feedback to work for il2 since it just updated. I checked I had the latest firmware update as well. I’m getting no input from the Y axis, X axis seems to be functioning. Is it something on your end or with the game?
WHmm, yeah, I think I broke something.
RAwesome thank you sir.
Sit's dead-dead. no beeps, no windows usb sound. Going thru multiple combinations of wire to the SR i found that hooking it up straight to the 5 pin works. Also tried one of the other SR boards from the order and same thing there. i was about to test the longer 26ga cable without the db9 and while i was unsoldering, realized it was still plugged in on usb as the iron touched 5v and CS. it made a last 'beep!' and windows usb disconnect sound and then that was it.
SBefore it died i was getting same results on powered usb hub and pc usb ports.
Sthe 26ga cable is only about 200mm long. what i dont get is, why would a correctly wired cable/connector not work? is it some insanely high speed or something? does it need shielding or twisted pairs?
TSorry to hear about the dead board. 200mm shouldn’t be too long, plenty of folks here using a 200mm extension with their grips. Not sure why the db9 wouldn’t work but you might try a different plug. I used the 5pin DIN for mine to match the TM and Virpil grips so they could be used if I ever picked one up.
Sdo you have a source for the din5? all i see are midi style plugs or mini din6. and a wiring diagram? alrough id rather keep the din9 where it is and make an extension to that in the future for tm/virpil
TI got mine from digikey.
TThis is what I used for wiring. I will double/triple check this before ever plugging a commercial grip in, but since all I am using right now is a DIY grip I just made it match on the male side in the grip.
WYou did get the shift register to work, right? Can't remember if you got one 
TYes, I’ve got two shift registers and have both working. One in a free joy project and one with the VPForce mainboard. However my current grip is using an Arduino only as the SPI slave to handle buttons and axis since it doesn’t have that many buttons. I’ve got code for using an Arduino with and without the shift register and both are working! I had to go to the Arduino only setup because I didn’t build enough space in my grip for both boards but my next version will have space for both.
Sfor the record i DID have it working for a short time, but with ONLY this cable in use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZGHN38?th=1
Fly RC 14.8v 4s Lipo Battery 5pins Balance Charger Cable Lead Wire Connector (10pcs 4s 5pin)
TI used a similar setup but got the stuff to make my own JST cables with plugs. The only non-JST plug between my grip and main board is the one 5 pin miniDin for commercial grip compatibility.
W@smitty981 do you have another board to test? It's weird though that you ran into these issues.
WI'll double check on my end tomorrow with a scope
Syeah i have 2 installed, and 4 3 more for the other 2 guys rigs that arent fully welded up yet.. but will eventually need another usb board. just afraid to burn another at this point haha
Sis there a firmware controlled speed on that line? wondering why it would be so wonky with a DIY cable.
Slike its running at 10ghz or something
WIt's quite slow, approx 0.8MHz
Si dont need CoD trigger low latency, i just want to click to chat on discord 
Shmm. ok . maybe ill try a twisted pair wire
WBut data edge polarity is different on the S/R board, hence the additional profile for it in the configurator.
I've tested with a long cable without problems, but will recheck tmrw to confirm.
I've tested with a long cable without problems, but will recheck tmrw to confirm.