@jehlybean - 02 Nos of 57BLF03, using it for ROLL and PITCH, for a DIY yoke
@jehlybean - 02 Nos of 57BLF03, using it for ROLL and PITCH, for a DIY yoke
JWell, I'm just reading the #
faq and doing some very light googling. The motors you ordered appear to be the same ones that came in the base (per the notes in the #faq). The stock power brick shipped with the bases is 180W. I've personally asked a similar question in here when I ordered stuff for my pedals (I want a single power supply, not two) and I bought a 350W. For you, I humbly believe a 240W would be fine.
faq and doing some very light googling. The motors you ordered appear to be the same ones that came in the base (per the notes in the #faq). The stock power brick shipped with the bases is 180W. I've personally asked a similar question in here when I ordered stuff for my pedals (I want a single power supply, not two) and I bought a 350W. For you, I humbly believe a 240W would be fine.
B@jehlybean thanks , shall start the search for the PSU.
JI got mine from amazon for "like new" for about 15% off.
JNot terribly expensive. I personally believe the "laptop power bricks" are a bit overpriced.
BYep I will also stick to the SMPS type PSU’s
B@jehlybean what pedals are you using ?
JVirpil. I haven’t done it yet, but I’m intending to turn them into FFB.
JLove them and I think this will only make it that much better.
BNice, right am I am in the initial stages of designing a diy Boeing yoke, next will be the pedals for FFB
BI thought I had that on but will try again. Thx!
BI have Stickly disabled, and I'm trying the Default setting in DCS. Maybe the switch thing that the other gentleman mentioned is my issue.
NIf you've been flying helis in MSFS... you may need to disable sticky (Haha.. nvm)
Nhttps://docs.google.com/document/d/1YL5DLkiTxlaNx_zKHEYSs25PjmGtQ6_WZDk58_SGt8Y/edit#heading=h.uc6h2nwcqoka the doc should have what you need to get it working in DCS (and specifically with the Huey)
TIs FFB still broken on the gazelle? or is there a combination of settings that makes it work
BI spent my first Rhino/DCS time in the Gazelle, after not touching DCS for over two years. It is unflyable and I can't figure out why. The collective behaves very strangely, unlike that in the UH-1. I loved the Gazelle even with the old, widely cursed flight model, but something ain't right somewhere.
AMake sure to put the curve/gain in Gaz special settings to zero
TI think I had that set. Selecting None for the trimmer mode makes the rhino go back to the center on trim release. Selecting Instant, it drags it off to the side the more I release the trim button
KYou need to go to Special tap, there is (I think No 5) a extra option for FFB for this Modul. make sure it is ticked
KThe Gazelle flies perfecly fine for me, just did 4 hours in Multicrew in it
TDo you mean the "Module individual force feedback toggle"?
TThat and Instant trim seems to have done the trick, thanks!
HIs there a way to get Virpil analog sticks/thumb wheels working when connected to the Rhino? Specifically the VFX, but looking at the FAQ it's not supported yet. Was hoping to get the analog DLC working, but guess that's later.
WIt's implemented already
HThanks walmis
S@walmis new adapter worked flawlessly. thank you!
WAwesome. Looks like I nailed the issues.
SGood morning mates. A fast question. I am build the base for my FFB motors. I wonder what is better for the Cyclic Base. Be 2 parts? Or one part? And why?
WIt needs to be able to rotate in the center otherwise there will be a gimbal lock when moving diagonally
SS@walmis i guess you mean this here
Wyes indeed
Ssorry video is not working.oh i have not think about it
Sso we tight it with a nut and ready?
S
WYeah those parts need to have a bearing in between and clamped down tight so there is no play
SThanks a lot for you help 
TThis didn’t make sense to me either when I was printing mine because the nut is on the wrong side to secure the bearings. I ended up redesigning so the bearings sit on a spacer and the bolt goes all the way through with enough threads to put the nut on the grip side of the bearings. Works great.
TI made the recess for the bolt shoulder deeper and made the top profile of the center section longer to move the bolt closer to the grip end. Used a washer for the spacer and secured the nut from the grip end.
Sso you used a bigger screw and moved the but to the end of the bolt?
TWhere the green arrow is pointing in your picture I extended that shoulder so there was a just enough gap for a washer (can’t remember, M6 I believe?). Then on the other end in increased the depth of the recess so that the bolt length doesn’t need to change.
TI used the Mabo base though and I don’t remember that cylinder that is coming out of the cutaway in your image.
TThis cylinder indicated by the red arrow was not on my version of the base.
AI guess that the cylinder at the red arrow is only an auxiliary object to illustrate the axes.
AThe green arrow pointe to a hexagon nut with flange
TI didn’t delve into the design of the Alu extrusion stick base too much so wasn’t sure if it was native to the design. I believe this is the “Farm” base or similar.
Thanks for posting yours on GitHub, it really helped me get started!
Thanks for posting yours on GitHub, it really helped me get started!
SMy iteration of Mabo's original design.
60mm M5 bolt
Nuts under bearings and on top to keep it snug.
Since I like to over build and since I had some clicking due to movement (which turned out to be main gimbal bearings moving), the orange under the bearings is a tpu spacer.
Smooth as silk and quiet
60mm M5 bolt
Nuts under bearings and on top to keep it snug.
Since I like to over build and since I had some clicking due to movement (which turned out to be main gimbal bearings moving), the orange under the bearings is a tpu spacer.
Smooth as silk and quiet
THi everyone. I need a second opinion. I am using the 86BLF03 motors and as such could not find a design online which I could use. So I am planning to redesign Mambo’s solution and adjust the design to make space for the larger motors. Because I will use it to fly helicopters exclusively, I am thinking to upgrade the 70 tooth pulley to a 90 tooth one to ensure that especially the small movements will be recognized. Any thoughts?
Sto get the finest movement resolution possible, use whatever ratio is equal to making the motor pulley just about complete a full revolution. an example with easy numbers: if your full stick travel is 36deg, 360/36 = 10:1. A 90t pulley to a 9t motor pulley would match, but you can use a 10t on the motor to keep it under a full rotation so there's no power-on issue with centering.
TWhen you speak about the travel degree is it the total movement from front to back?
S36 degrees isn’t too much? Usually travel is around 20-25. Right?