Might need to make it an L bracket though, since two bolts might not be sufficient to hold the plat
Might need to make it an L bracket though, since two bolts might not be sufficient to hold the plate in place without it bending
Fthat entirely depends on the thickness of the plate. I assume 4 to 6mm to be plenty strong steel, alu might need a little more, havent calculated that correctness though
BI was concerned about the plate thickness, but Walmis said it was plenty and that turns out to be true.
I didn't realize this until I took the first pic above that the profile that the Rhino plate attaches to is sagging (it's not the plate). I just tried to tighten everything up but it's still doing it. I'm contemplating putting something under it that sits on the floor to support it (not that it matters, other than visually and to my OCD's insistence on orthogonality).
But I think you need a short piece of profile that mounts to the front of the bottom-most profile in the picture (you marked the latter red) and then the Rhino plate would attach to that. IOW, what I did but centered on the frame rather than sidestick-style. Maybe that's what you are intending but if not, I would not mount the plate directly to the top of the profile. It might be fine, but I do think the plate needs some support for at least part of its front-to-back length, as I have done. Either that, or put something under it for support that goes to the floor.
I didn't realize this until I took the first pic above that the profile that the Rhino plate attaches to is sagging (it's not the plate). I just tried to tighten everything up but it's still doing it. I'm contemplating putting something under it that sits on the floor to support it (not that it matters, other than visually and to my OCD's insistence on orthogonality).
But I think you need a short piece of profile that mounts to the front of the bottom-most profile in the picture (you marked the latter red) and then the Rhino plate would attach to that. IOW, what I did but centered on the frame rather than sidestick-style. Maybe that's what you are intending but if not, I would not mount the plate directly to the top of the profile. It might be fine, but I do think the plate needs some support for at least part of its front-to-back length, as I have done. Either that, or put something under it for support that goes to the floor.
FHello I checked my rhino and the y axis band is a bit looser than the x axis, is that normal ?
SGuys do many of you use the Throw Limiter Adapter? If so, at what angle and do we really need it?
Jits more for how you use it in your space, for some cockpit use you need it so it isnt banging into things
Jespecially if on an extension
JI personally got 50% and 25% limiters for mine, so limits half the throw, or only 25% of the throw. I kept mine consistent for both axis. The 50% I plan to use with a 200mm extension, the 25% is future proofing should I ever use it differently such as with a 100mm extension
You can of course use the software limiter, but the physical one protects you, your hardware, and the rhino when used in addition to software limiter
You can of course use the software limiter, but the physical one protects you, your hardware, and the rhino when used in addition to software limiter
C@walmis I plan on designing and building my own ffb rudder pedals with toe brakes in (hopefully) the not too distant future. What do you suggest in order to get the toe brakes as two seperate axes? I was planning on using rotary incremental encoders. Would the shift register be able to be used in this manner?
M15 degrees fore and aft is ok to not collide with monstertech desk mount without any extension. It's also the limit for a Virpil base. The stock 22 degrees of the Rhino is too much for me.
5hi, can anybody help me with the trim setup in fs2020? the stick doesn't move when i trim on the assigend buttons, only ingame. trim buttons are also assigned in spad.next. here are my settings, thanks
5also enabled in the config.ini
Si havent set it up myself yet, but i think you have to click 'override trim' and then remove any ingame trim settings you have for the 4-way beep trim buttons. But your button [2] should release the springs and relatch when you let go as your settings are now.
Nthe force trim in TelemFFB only applies to the "mag brake" release/new-center aspect of force trim. It does not support the trim-hat. As smitty said, if you want the stick to move with the trim-hat, you'll need to enable override trim.
WHi, I've added a manual entry about re-tightening the belts:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1YL5DLkiTxlaNx_zKHEYSs25PjmGtQ6_WZDk58_SGt8Y/edit#heading=h.z337ya
The belts eventually need tightening, that's normal.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1YL5DLkiTxlaNx_zKHEYSs25PjmGtQ6_WZDk58_SGt8Y/edit#heading=h.z337ya
The belts eventually need tightening, that's normal.
Google Docs
VPforce RHINO FFB User Manual Version 0.1 (WIP) 03/08/2023 Table of Contents 1. Welcome 1 2. Getting Started 3 2.1. Technical Specifications 4 2.2. Physical Setup 5 2.2.1. The VKB Adapter 6 2.2.2. The WinWing Adapter 6 2.2.3 The RHINO Throw Limiter Adapters 7 2.3. Initial Connection and Up...
5i think i also have tried it with "override trim", but not yet without removed trim settings ingame, will test tomorrow, thanks
FThere are others here that have made those, you probably want to ask them. (Ppl that have added toe brakes to the vkb mk 4 rudder might be able to help as well)
WThe easiest way - The pot inputs can be used for toe brakes with a pot or an analog signal.
Hard way - wiring an arduino spi slave to send digitized data via the 5 pin grip connector.
Hard way - wiring an arduino spi slave to send digitized data via the 5 pin grip connector.
FThanks @walmis
SI tried running Telem FFB via a bat-file, or via the MSFS exe.xml, but I just get an error. When I run it by clicking it, it works. What am I doing wrong?
Nthe app is fairly sensitive to pathing. If you want to start it from a batch script, you need to "cd" into its directory.. for example.. my batch file that launches 3 instances...
S@Number481 Ah, thanks for replying! I tried cd to relevant directory, still didn't work. I will look into it tomorrow!
HWhy does the belt need to be moved off prior to moving the motor?
WTo relieve the existing tension, since you wouldn't be able to move the motor enough to tighten the belt properly.
MGot mine yesterday and I am currently remapping all the buttons. Any idea if there's any way to use VIRPIL mapping software to keep mode switched and advanced button programming?
Nvirpil software talks to the CM base, not the grip.. so.... no base=no software
MWell it actually talks to the controller card... one of which I installed in my MSFFB2 and could program the thing so I'm pretty sure the same could be done here, with the caveat of having x2 USB cables coming out of the system (but the same happens with the VKB adapter if I'm not mistaken?)
OR
We get VIRPIL-ish functionality embedded in the sw at some point.
OR
We get VIRPIL-ish functionality embedded in the sw at some point.
BI think you would need to use one of the various joystick utilities. I wish I knew what the differences are between Axes and Ohs, Spad.nExt, Joystick Gremlin, and FSUIPC (which I used a lot with FSX but haven't touched it since). (I'm sure there are others.) I don't care so much about combining multiple devices into a single virtual one, but I would like to have advanced button/hat programmability. I just got a VKB throttle setup, and although the software seems to be very powerful it's almost as hard to understand as Virpil's stuff 
, and so it would be nice to have one utility that I can pipe all of my controller toys through and yet get the advanced button/axis functionality.
, and so it would be nice to have one utility that I can pipe all of my controller toys through and yet get the advanced button/axis functionality.NPersonally I can recommend spad.next. I used it extensively when I was big into Msfs and still use it for a lot of little things in DCS. To me it is far more intuitive than the Virpil software is.
JTrying out the pedals/stick on MSFS2020 for first time, I feel like I'm missing something. Stick wont stay centered, almost zero vibrations felt, FFB enabled.
Nwhat aircraft are you flying? You have TelemFFB setup and connecting to MSFS (showing telemetry)?
Myeah I know joystick gremlin like, a lot, I was just hoping in a native solution...
MAnother question, I have pulled the TelemFFB (the python version), installed the requirements and all but when I try to launch it I get
..\python main.py
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "..\Desktop\Joystick\VPforce-TelemFFB\main.py", line 81, in <module>
from PyQt5 import QtWidgets
ImportError: cannot import name 'QtWidgets' from 'PyQt5' (unknown location)
..\python main.py
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "..\Desktop\Joystick\VPforce-TelemFFB\main.py", line 81, in <module>
from PyQt5 import QtWidgets
ImportError: cannot import name 'QtWidgets' from 'PyQt5' (unknown location)
Many idea?
MI'm trying to install the latest version I can find, from python (3.11.5 ?)
Mnevermind, Updating python, doing a git reset and pull seems to have fixed the issue.
JFlying a helo. Yeah it’s connected, at least it says it is
Nwhich helo? Unlike DCS, there aren’t a lot of default aircraft profiles inside the config. You need to make sure there’s an entry and that it’s identified as a helicopter.
NAnd for helicopters you will either have to use the VPf configurator sticky spring + force trim. Or you can enable the force trim implementation in TelemFFB MSFS.Helicopter section.
JI bought the H145.
JI'll research this
KQuick question, of course I did edit the normal user.ini and not the README.ini… is there a way to correct it and get the original back? Sorry if that’s a stupid question, maybe there is a button to reset it but I am not home at my PC these days.. just re-reading the manual again and thought I should better follow the correct way with both .ini
NThere is no harm in editing config.ini directly. Only that it will get overwritten if you unzip a new version on top of it.
You can simply rename your current one to config.user.ini and then copy the default config.ini out of the original zip file if you want.
You can simply rename your current one to config.user.ini and then copy the default config.ini out of the original zip file if you want.
BI didn't know you could turn on h/w trim in the TelemFFB config.user.ini file. What do I need to add to the ini file to turn on h/w trim in MSFS without having to switch it on and off in the Configurator app? (I bounce between MSFS and DCS constantly.)
BSorry I totally missed that note. Thanks!
Nyou mean you don't monitor the discord like a hawk and take notes on every post?? SHAME!.. 
BWell I surely didn't realize that config.ini had been enhanced so much since the last time I copied it to config.user.ini!!! Suggestion: add a version note to the top of config.ini...
Sthe user.ini shouldnt be a copy of config.ini, it should just have the things you are overriding.. mine has msfs_enabled=1 and a couple heli configs.
B<slaps forehead> you're completely correct. Sometimes I wonder how I got through high school, let alone college 
NIt can be a full copy..but it doesn’t need to be.