Okay, try spring strength proportional damper at 100%, damper LPF - 6Hz, Spring LPF - 2-4Hz
Okay, try spring strength proportional damper at 100%, damper LPF - 6Hz, Spring LPF - 2-4Hz
MOK, have set those, but noticed in config, not getting anythin g reported in the raw data and blue circle?
Mok, re set made those wotk, ignore
Mwow, sorted! and stick feels much better generally as well. Thanks Walmis!
RWalmis, you easily read post and ask guys to try certain settings based on complexity and complaints of what the stick is doing. Can you post the base settings here and or pin it. Then give a short discussion on your thought process and what each setting does and why you are adjusting etc. I know it would be a long post and want be respectful of your time. As you already have your hands full. Maybe something every couple weeks as you have time. I feel it would help a lot of us u Dees hand the system better and what the settings actually do. Anyway just a thought. Thanks again for the great product and customer service.
SOk thanks 
EShort question: can i set a different strenght to the stick when trim released is pressed? And if so, how?
NForce trim release is just “absence of spring force”. So any other effect like friction/dampen/inertia will remain active.
However, there is no way to change those settings dynamically whilst force trim release is held
However, there is no way to change those settings dynamically whilst force trim release is held
EThanks for the quick reply!
I am just starting to play around with all the settings. This thing is truly amazing!
I am just starting to play around with all the settings. This thing is truly amazing!
Vdo someone has issues with Rotary Wings in DCS?
I have encountered an issue where in game the cyclic returns to center as I touch the physical stick after having used the force trim (in game force trim, and FFB stick trim mode selected)
I have encountered an issue where in game the cyclic returns to center as I touch the physical stick after having used the force trim (in game force trim, and FFB stick trim mode selected)
VThe Rhino, stays where I put it, but the in-game sticks return to center.
I have double and triple checked that I have no other bindings (to roll/pitch axis) and that the correct trim mode option is selected
I have double and triple checked that I have no other bindings (to roll/pitch axis) and that the correct trim mode option is selected
JWhich aircraft? And what trim mode do you have set in DCS for that module?
VI tried apache and Huey..
The trim mode is the Ffb one (I already wrote it above)
The trim mode is the Ffb one (I already wrote it above)
VI know it's probably obvious question, but did you enable FFB in the MISC tab? For FFB to work you need to assign correct axes in the controls, in Special settting set correct trim option, but there's also "global" FFB setting in one of the other tabs in the options (I really think it's the MISC one) where you also need to check that box.
VI mean, I've tried Huey, Apache, Mi-8, force trim works as intended, so there must be that one annoying thing that you missed
Wcould another device be bound to the X and Y axes in DCS?
VI described everything...I am one of the first Rhino's owners...I know. I triple checked everything
VI removed everything....even VR controllers' bindings
Vare you perhaps hitting/triggering "Trim Reset" in DCS?
VNo...also if you read what I wrote....only the in game stick returns to the center...the Rhino stays where I put it.
If I press trim reset, the rhino returns to center physically
If I press trim reset, the rhino returns to center physically
Wand to confirm the blue dot in the VP configurator shows in the trimmed position?
VIf I'm reading this correctly, the X center is 1600. Is that problematic? With everything reset to factory before running calibration, the left direction only gets about 2/3 of the way on the VPForce Configurator indicator when I hit the limits of the base
Vand what does Force Comp do?
Vps physically whether deflected left or right fully, the VKB adaptor (i.e. just checking the tip of the Rhino before my grip starts) extends just past the lip of the base - i.e. it's not like the base itself is skew/limited more in one direction
Vjust the software seems to think it has less range to the left I guess?
WMaybe the leather bunches up? You should feel a solid bump at the edge.
The calibration looks fine.
Hover the force comp field and an explanation should pop up.
The calibration looks fine.
Hover the force comp field and an explanation should pop up.
VYeah, it's not the leather - I do feel the bump. Just the C: 1675 and raw_x value being in the 1600s I thought that might be bad, given it recommends a center around 2048
VI did see the popup for Force Comp, thanks - just I don't understand it.
WWhen under force there is some flex in the system, gimbal, belts etc. And you will find that you might not be able to reach the logical axis limits .
WThis is because the motors are axis sensors
VSo crank it up to 190 and 100 respectively, or is it something to be tuned/tested?
W190, 100 works well for Rhino
WBut you can play around and see how it works if interested
HDo you possibly have a second stick bound to the pitch/roll axes?
HOh, just saw your other post saying you checked that
HLast thing I'd try is wiping your saved games folder and rebuilding it
HOne way to do that would be moving the entire folder somewhere else, launching DCS and letting it rebuild it, and seeing if that fixes the issue
HIf it does, try moving things back in sections to see what causes the issue to reappear
VYes it does
VNo, double and triple checked...no other devices bound to x/y axis
MI've had a weird issue in the last couple of days. I have a VIRPIL TCS rotor base and hawk 60 grip, A VIRPIL CM2 throttle, and verbal t50 CM2 grip attached to the rhino. Everything has been working okay for a couple of weeks. Now it has been 2 or 3 days that when I connect the rhino to the powered USB hub I use for all those peripherals, the VIRPIL collective disconnects for some reason. I have changed the powered USB hub with a new one but it still happens.
The hub is a USB 3.0 connected to a 3.2 USB port on the motherboard so it shouldn't be a USB bandwidth problem. Any idea what I could check to troubleshoot this?
The hub is a USB 3.0 connected to a 3.2 USB port on the motherboard so it shouldn't be a USB bandwidth problem. Any idea what I could check to troubleshoot this?
DDisconnects and reconnects?
Mthe TCS rotor? no it just disappears. I get this behavior consistently from the TCS rotor, not so consistently (at least not that I'm aware of, or I didn't pay enough attention to that. More testing would be needed I guess) from the throttle...
I mean the TCS rotor disappears as long as the Rhino is plugged in. If I unplug the Rhino it comes back.
I mean the TCS rotor disappears as long as the Rhino is plugged in. If I unplug the Rhino it comes back.
WIt disappears from game devices or from device manager ?
WMYeah I have monitored it with that, USBLogview and USBDeview... it disappears from both, device manager AND game devices
Mno idea why. Maybe the collective is acting up IDK. I could see the current draw (from USBTreeview) is in line with the throttle (500ma) while the Rhino only draws 200ma (ofc, as that is powered by its brick...)
WI'd try booting up Linux live USB such as Ubuntu and see in the kernel logs
dmesg of any hardware weirdness.Mhm. I can sure try and do that in time. If you have any other suggestion I'm open.
WI assume you tried different motherboard USB sockets or plugging everything directly to the motherboard
MI did change to EVERY damn port on the M/B.
Turns out it was the USB hub power brick. It's powered by a USB-C so i was using a phone charger that happened to be JUST sufficient. It was flimsy enough that it would eventually give up and stop sending 5V reliably, causing the whole issue. A different power source seems to have solved all issues.
To restate: the Rhino was definitely NOT the cause.
Thanks for taking the time to interact, @walmis. 10/10 would buy a second Rhino. (it's a joke...)
Turns out it was the USB hub power brick. It's powered by a USB-C so i was using a phone charger that happened to be JUST sufficient. It was flimsy enough that it would eventually give up and stop sending 5V reliably, causing the whole issue. A different power source seems to have solved all issues.
To restate: the Rhino was definitely NOT the cause.
Thanks for taking the time to interact, @walmis. 10/10 would buy a second Rhino. (it's a joke...)