Sjust thought about this: could u program the rhino to act similar to a cars gear shift?
V:package: 
RHINO #0360 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0360 Has Shipped!
FAlways curious when I see mfds like that, aren't they too far forward? Do you have to reach to use them?
DI
DHave searched but cannot find any example settings for planes or rotors. Is there a section that people have shared theirs? Thanks
PItem Features Fitment: Fit For Most Vehicles (CUSTOM SEAT BRACKETS NEEDED. NOT INCLUDED) Color: Driver Side+Black with Trims Material: PU Leather Front; PU + Carbon Leather Back Style: Seats can hold 300 LBS Sliders: 1 PC of Dual Slider Included, can slide forward or backward with ease & smooth S...
PNo, they are well within reach.
PAlthough I'm 6'2. So if someone had much shorter arms I suppose it could be an issue.
T@Poor Yurik How does the H3 feel for helicopter flying, if you don't mind me asking? Any cogging issues?
PFor reference, I hit the F keys on that keyboard behind the MFDs while I'm flying.
PA few thoughts:
1) Overall I love it. It has taken modding to get mine to where it is right now. I recommend the Facebook group "DOFReality Builders". For example I did the diode mod and misalignment spacer mods discussed there (both very easy to do). I also added the extrusions that my seat sits on and sawed the stock H3 seat crossbar in half and used it to mount the left and right MFDs and windtubes.
2) the H3 is one part of many components that make the experience come to life imo. The haptic seat pad, buttkicker, and hurricane wind kit are also must-haves imo. For example, the wind kit (which is a bundle option with the H3) gives me a sensory cue of when I'm moving extremely fast in a helo so I can anticipate overspeed, or when I'm in a plane it helps me avoid stalls and manage my speed during dogfights.
3) Only thing missing for me from the H3 is as time has gone on I've started to increasinlynwant to add the feeling of moving straight up and down for helos (or even the feeling of dipping down in a plane like the fishbed). It would also add the surge feel of carrier takeoffs and landings. I will probably upgrade to an H6 eventually.
1) Overall I love it. It has taken modding to get mine to where it is right now. I recommend the Facebook group "DOFReality Builders". For example I did the diode mod and misalignment spacer mods discussed there (both very easy to do). I also added the extrusions that my seat sits on and sawed the stock H3 seat crossbar in half and used it to mount the left and right MFDs and windtubes.
2) the H3 is one part of many components that make the experience come to life imo. The haptic seat pad, buttkicker, and hurricane wind kit are also must-haves imo. For example, the wind kit (which is a bundle option with the H3) gives me a sensory cue of when I'm moving extremely fast in a helo so I can anticipate overspeed, or when I'm in a plane it helps me avoid stalls and manage my speed during dogfights.
3) Only thing missing for me from the H3 is as time has gone on I've started to increasinlynwant to add the feeling of moving straight up and down for helos (or even the feeling of dipping down in a plane like the fishbed). It would also add the surge feel of carrier takeoffs and landings. I will probably upgrade to an H6 eventually.
PThe only thing I'd ever have described as cogging was pretty gnarly but I fixed it with the diode mod (~$10 + 20 minutes to install).
PI'll post a video of my rig moving
TWow, lot of good information, thanks! I'm still dreaming of this, but playing with the idea. I was kinda hoping for "it's no good, save your money" 
PActually I just realized the only recent video I have has the settings turned way down with my young daughter on a rollercoaster 
TBut good to hear it feels good without the planetary gear motor mod
PThe Black Shark is what got me excited enough to buy all this stuff initially. Then it just went here from there.
PYep. I think the planetary thing is very cool but unnecessary once you make the mods I mentioned.
PAlso, important to note that when you read these groups the dof rigs have evolved a great deal over time. The newer models with SFUs and encoder motors simply do not have the same issues as the older models.
PRight after I bought my rig last August they started shipping the rigs largely pre-built and with brakes so they don't dip when they turn off. I had to fully build mine.
TRight, seems so indeed. I saw some people complaining about the cogging even with the SFUs, but there were many other opinions too. But good info, thanks. I might DM you with more questions later when I've digested this a bit.
TIt seems the H3 doesn't come with the SFUs, so might make more sense to go straight to H6, but damn that's expensive... not compared to other 6dof rigs of course, but in general.
PRight on. This has become a hobby for me all in of itself. The modding has definitely been part of the fun (and challenge) for me. Learned how to use extrusions, drill countersunk holes (for my Rhino plate I made), cut metal to size, etc.
PI had the same thoughts. H3 with SFU upgrade made way more sense to me as a starting point. Can always upgrade later. Also, any H6 stats on the dofr website are identical to the H3 with SFUs. The listed H3 stats are stock only (without SFUs).
DJust my experience, I had a HORRIBLE time doing the SFU upgrade, I wish I had not. My P6 has not worked correctly since… in fact it is not working right now. If I was getting a DOFReality rig now, I would definitely buy one that I did. Or have to upgrade. When it works, it is amazing, when it does not, it is completely tragic.
DRight now, I probably have the world’s most expensive stationary rig.
DMaybe the Aston Martin branded race rigs are more expensive… maybe.
DOn a happier note, last night was the first long session with the Rhino during virtual squadron ops….worked like a champ! No yanking and banking, was a fairly mundane mission, but flying #2 in a three-ship doing the overhead was simply sublime, trimmed up I might have been 10 feet off altitude in the downwind and the “feel” in the stick when I landed was as realistic as I feel you can get.
PUpgrading from the old units versus buying the SFUs to start is likely completely different. Installing the SFUs in my newer model was incredibly easy.
PEspecially considering DOFReality pre-builds the units before shipping them out now.
DYeah… I have an early P6 model. It has been a bit of a nightmare to be honest. I have another hall sensor coming from Ukraine and just received another Arduino board to replace the one I replaced from before. Hopefully this fixes it.
PFrom everything I've read in the groups, the older models definitely had a lot of problems the newer ones don't have anymore. Any build challenges I had were quickly solved by help from the dofr builders fb community. Hearing that the new units are pre-built makes me simultaneously jealous of new buyers but also makes me feel like they are missing out on a crucial right of passage lol
PBiggest issue the current rigs have is tied to the need for the easy and cheap diode mod (which is a mod of the external control box, not the motors). Really baffles me why that isn't pre-installed by dofr. It solves for a very real issue where the motors momentarily lose power and judder when you do a movement fast and far into a direction. Post-mod, completely solved.
DI did the diode fix previous to my current problem… fixed the clogging and hard snap-back issue.
AAre there any specific recommendations on PSUs or on ones that should be avoided?
M20v is the sweet spot for amps vs overhead, some folks prefer XT60 plugs, others prefer barrels (I like XT60). You shopping for 57xxxx kit or 86xxxx? The latter people tend to go with Meanwell type, the former can be found in powerbricks
AI’m looking to power a single 86 for a ffb pedal kit.
AGitHub
DIY VPForce 86BLF-03 kit mod for the Virpil ACE rudder pedals - GitHub - Number481/VirpilACE-VPForce-Mod: DIY VPForce 86BLF-03 kit mod for the Virpil ACE rudder pedals
ASeems like a straight forward project. My other projects are at the mercy of the machine shops busy schedule currently
MSingle 86xxxx kit you can use the standard 20v/9A laptop/RC charger type like stock Rhino uses for a clean and tidy solution
AFantastic. I’ll grab one of those thank you!
SWell, that looks easier than the F14 pedals
AI’m already halfway done with the f14 pedals 
ABut this I can get done faster then the machine shop can get my parts done sooooo
DI did the diode mod fix, was actually pretty easy. Definitely fixed the clogging and hard snap-back issue. Thanks
DThe effectivemess of DOF Reality platforms is very dependant on correct assembly and a reasonable understanding of the mechanics of how they work. Going by owner feedback on social media (mainly facebook), Opinions are very polarised, either for, or against.
I bought my first one 4 years ago, (an H3). I've gradually upgraded it to my current H6 with SFU gearboxes and the planetary motor mod. I'm very satisfied with its performance in racing and flying sims. It now moves very smoothly, even during very slow subtle changes in pitch and roll, like when under autopilot. Prior to the SFUs and Planetary motors it juddered quite badly during these slow movements, spiling immersion.
I had managed to get my H3 quite smooth before upgrading to the H6 by moving the pushrods to the innermost holes on the SFU arms, efectively down-gearing it, slightly reducing the maximum angular movement, but almost eliminating the judder.
I bought my first one 4 years ago, (an H3). I've gradually upgraded it to my current H6 with SFU gearboxes and the planetary motor mod. I'm very satisfied with its performance in racing and flying sims. It now moves very smoothly, even during very slow subtle changes in pitch and roll, like when under autopilot. Prior to the SFUs and Planetary motors it juddered quite badly during these slow movements, spiling immersion.
I had managed to get my H3 quite smooth before upgrading to the H6 by moving the pushrods to the innermost holes on the SFU arms, efectively down-gearing it, slightly reducing the maximum angular movement, but almost eliminating the judder.
DYeah, it is a tough one. Prior to my upgrading to SFU, it worked flawlessly, both for flying and driving. The SFU upgrade has caused me a LOT of problems, it has not worked correctly since, if at all. I have too much invested in it to just toss it out the window, so I will continue to press. Everything I have read and seen say the new models are quite good, fantastic even. I have not tried the planetary mod, I am quite gunshy when it comes to doing too much more with it. I will say I have gotten many, many hours of enjoyment out of it... hopefully I can get it to work again. For now it is a stationary rig.
V:package: 
RHINO #0361 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0361 Has Shipped!DYou're unlucky Duchess, the SFU upgrade transformed my H3 and then my H6 completely.
The switch from crude worm and roller gearboxes with their significant "lash" free play to the much more sophisticated ball and screw mechanisms gave me much smoother and more powerful movements.
The only downside was the "droop" when switched off, because the SFU gearboxes had no residual self-binding like the worm gearboxes.
The planetary motor mod would not suit everyone though, it does introduce the gear noise compared to the direct drive motors, but for GA flying it's magic.
With hindsight, it's just possible that I may have gone down the true DIY linear actuator platform route instead, but maybe not... My much modified H6 with the Rhino FF stick and VR is the most immersive expereince I've had so far, yet far less painful when I hit the ground.....
The switch from crude worm and roller gearboxes with their significant "lash" free play to the much more sophisticated ball and screw mechanisms gave me much smoother and more powerful movements.
The only downside was the "droop" when switched off, because the SFU gearboxes had no residual self-binding like the worm gearboxes.
The planetary motor mod would not suit everyone though, it does introduce the gear noise compared to the direct drive motors, but for GA flying it's magic.
With hindsight, it's just possible that I may have gone down the true DIY linear actuator platform route instead, but maybe not... My much modified H6 with the Rhino FF stick and VR is the most immersive expereince I've had so far, yet far less painful when I hit the ground.....
RAny progress on this? I can't print parts, but if they were pre-made and shipped as a buildable kit that'd be plenty perfect already
