It seems the H3 doesn't come with the SFUs, so might make more sense to go straight to H6, but damn

It seems the H3 doesn't come with the SFUs, so might make more sense to go straight to H6, but damn that's expensive... not compared to other 6dof rigs of course, but in general.

Poor Yurik•1/24/24, 4:00 PM

Right on. This has become a hobby for me all in of itself. The modding has definitely been part of the fun (and challenge) for me. Learned how to use extrusions, drill countersunk holes (for my Rhino plate I made), cut metal to size, etc.

TToge It seems the H3 doesn't come with the SFUs, so might make more sense to go strai...

Poor Yurik•1/24/24, 4:04 PM

I had the same thoughts. H3 with SFU upgrade made way more sense to me as a starting point. Can always upgrade later. Also, any H6 stats on the dofr website are identical to the H3 with SFUs. The listed H3 stats are stock only (without SFUs).

Duchess ✈•1/24/24, 4:38 PM

Just my experience, I had a HORRIBLE time doing the SFU upgrade, I wish I had not. My P6 has not worked correctly since… in fact it is not working right now. If I was getting a DOFReality rig now, I would definitely buy one that I did. Or have to upgrade. When it works, it is amazing, when it does not, it is completely tragic.

Duchess ✈•1/24/24, 4:39 PM

Right now, I probably have the world’s most expensive stationary rig.

Duchess ✈•1/24/24, 4:40 PM

Maybe the Aston Martin branded race rigs are more expensive… maybe.

Duchess ✈•1/24/24, 4:44 PM

On a happier note, last night was the first long session with the Rhino during virtual squadron ops….worked like a champ! No yanking and banking, was a fairly mundane mission, but flying #2 in a three-ship doing the overhead was simply sublime, trimmed up I might have been 10 feet off altitude in the downwind and the “feel” in the stick when I landed was as realistic as I feel you can get.

DDuchess ✈Just my experience, I had a HORRIBLE time doing the SFU upgrade, I wish I had no...

Poor Yurik•1/24/24, 5:14 PM

Upgrading from the old units versus buying the SFUs to start is likely completely different. Installing the SFUs in my newer model was incredibly easy.

Poor Yurik•1/24/24, 5:16 PM

Especially considering DOFReality pre-builds the units before shipping them out now.

Duchess ✈•1/24/24, 5:29 PM

Yeah… I have an early P6 model. It has been a bit of a nightmare to be honest. I have another hall sensor coming from Ukraine and just received another Arduino board to replace the one I replaced from before. Hopefully this fixes it.

DDuchess ✈Yeah… I have an early P6 model. It has been a bit of a nightmare to be honest. ...

Poor Yurik•1/24/24, 5:54 PM

From everything I've read in the groups, the older models definitely had a lot of problems the newer ones don't have anymore. Any build challenges I had were quickly solved by help from the dofr builders fb community. Hearing that the new units are pre-built makes me simultaneously jealous of new buyers but also makes me feel like they are missing out on a crucial right of passage lol

Poor Yurik•1/24/24, 5:57 PM

Biggest issue the current rigs have is tied to the need for the easy and cheap diode mod (which is a mod of the external control box, not the motors). Really baffles me why that isn't pre-installed by dofr. It solves for a very real issue where the motors momentarily lose power and judder when you do a movement fast and far into a direction. Post-mod, completely solved.

Duchess ✈•1/24/24, 6:28 PM

I did the diode fix previous to my current problem… fixed the clogging and hard snap-back issue.

ARMORINE | Silver 1-2•1/24/24, 6:48 PM

Are there any specific recommendations on PSUs or on ones that should be avoided?

mechsicko•1/24/24, 6:53 PM

20v is the sweet spot for amps vs overhead, some folks prefer XT60 plugs, others prefer barrels (I like XT60). You shopping for 57xxxx kit or 86xxxx? The latter people tend to go with Meanwell type, the former can be found in powerbricks

ARMORINE | Silver 1-2•1/24/24, 6:54 PM

I’m looking to power a single 86 for a ffb pedal kit.

ARMORINE | Silver 1-2•1/24/24, 6:54 PM

https://github.com/Number481/VirpilACE-VPForce-Mod

GitHub

GitHub - Number481/VirpilACE-VPForce-Mod: DIY VPForce 86BLF-03 kit ...

DIY VPForce 86BLF-03 kit mod for the Virpil ACE rudder pedals - GitHub - Number481/VirpilACE-VPForce-Mod: DIY VPForce 86BLF-03 kit mod for the Virpil ACE rudder pedals

ARMORINE | Silver 1-2•1/24/24, 6:55 PM

Seems like a straight forward project. My other projects are at the mercy of the machine shops busy schedule currently

mechsicko•1/24/24, 6:58 PM

Single 86xxxx kit you can use the standard 20v/9A laptop/RC charger type like stock Rhino uses for a clean and tidy solution

ARMORINE | Silver 1-2•1/24/24, 7:05 PM

Fantastic. I’ll grab one of those thank you!

Sunshine•1/24/24, 8:02 PM

Well, that looks easier than the F14 pedals

ARMORINE | Silver 1-2•1/24/24, 8:03 PM

I’m already halfway done with the f14 pedals

ARMORINE | Silver 1-2•1/24/24, 8:04 PM

But this I can get done faster then the machine shop can get my parts done sooooo

Duchess ✈•1/24/24, 9:05 PM

I did the diode mod fix, was actually pretty easy. Definitely fixed the clogging and hard snap-back issue. Thanks

DofMan1234•1/24/24, 10:39 PM

The effectivemess of DOF Reality platforms is very dependant on correct assembly and a reasonable understanding of the mechanics of how they work. Going by owner feedback on social media (mainly facebook), Opinions are very polarised, either for, or against.
I bought my first one 4 years ago, (an H3). I've gradually upgraded it to my current H6 with SFU gearboxes and the planetary motor mod. I'm very satisfied with its performance in racing and flying sims. It now moves very smoothly, even during very slow subtle changes in pitch and roll, like when under autopilot. Prior to the SFUs and Planetary motors it juddered quite badly during these slow movements, spiling immersion.
I had managed to get my H3 quite smooth before upgrading to the H6 by moving the pushrods to the innermost holes on the SFU arms, efectively down-gearing it, slightly reducing the maximum angular movement, but almost eliminating the judder.

Duchess ✈•1/24/24, 10:52 PM

Yeah, it is a tough one. Prior to my upgrading to SFU, it worked flawlessly, both for flying and driving. The SFU upgrade has caused me a LOT of problems, it has not worked correctly since, if at all. I have too much invested in it to just toss it out the window, so I will continue to press. Everything I have read and seen say the new models are quite good, fantastic even. I have not tried the planetary mod, I am quite gunshy when it comes to doing too much more with it. I will say I have gotten many, many hours of enjoyment out of it... hopefully I can get it to work again. For now it is a stationary rig.

VPforceBot•1/25/24, 8:40 AM

:package:

RHINO #0361 Has Shipped!

DofMan1234•1/25/24, 10:17 AM

You're unlucky Duchess, the SFU upgrade transformed my H3 and then my H6 completely.
The switch from crude worm and roller gearboxes with their significant "lash" free play to the much more sophisticated ball and screw mechanisms gave me much smoother and more powerful movements.
The only downside was the "droop" when switched off, because the SFU gearboxes had no residual self-binding like the worm gearboxes.
The planetary motor mod would not suit everyone though, it does introduce the gear noise compared to the direct drive motors, but for GA flying it's magic.
With hindsight, it's just possible that I may have gone down the true DIY linear actuator platform route instead, but maybe not... My much modified H6 with the Rhino FF stick and VR is the most immersive expereince I've had so far, yet far less painful when I hit the ground.....

Wwalmis Hey guys, presenting you my very compact design of the MFG pedals FFB conversion...

Red Magic•1/25/24, 11:19 AM

Any progress on this? I can't print parts, but if they were pre-made and shipped as a buildable kit that'd be plenty perfect already

VPforceBot•1/25/24, 11:53 AM

:package:

RHINO #0363 Has Shipped!

VPforceBot•1/25/24, 11:53 AM

:package:

RHINO #0362 Has Shipped!

VPforceBot•1/25/24, 12:34 PM

:package:

RHINO #0364 Has Shipped!

CaptFlushGarden (John Liberto)•1/25/24, 6:01 PM

absolutely love my Rhino! Been messing with it all week, ive forgotten so many appotintments lol... I was shocked how much is happening effects wise in MSFS2020, been flying the Got Friends Discus glider and you feel the stick react to adverse yaw/rudder, air change passing hills/cliffs , catching thermals, etc, its amazing. The H145 is a joy to fly with the autopilot and the stick moving by itself, hoping to make a review or something because this is like the only stick you'll ever need! Measured strength at the HAND on the Thrustmaster F18 stick, at 4.5-5kg which feels great. Realized using a bit of "inertia" setting makes it feel like the stick goes through the floor with mechanics down, feels like youre moving a big system in there! Was afraid there was going to be cogging but its absolutely butter smooth!!!

VPforceBot•1/26/24, 8:09 AM

:package:

RHINO #0365 Has Shipped!

VPforceBot•1/26/24, 8:14 AM

:package:

RHINO #0366 Has Shipped!

VPforceBot•1/26/24, 8:44 AM

:package:

RHINO #0367 Has Shipped!

VPforceBot•1/26/24, 9:40 AM

:package: RHINO #0368 Has Shipped!

Pikas62•1/26/24, 10:07 AM

At jlcpcb.com you could have the RhinoStickMount “printed” in stainless steel. However, the part would weigh 380g. Would that work?

Piola•1/26/24, 11:04 AM

Interesting, do you have a direct link?

Pikas62•1/26/24, 12:39 PM

Sure - https://jlc3dp.com/3d-printing-quote. But now I think I was happy too soon. I doubt that it is really metal, it says 3d technology SLS(Metal), material 326L, color stainless steel. It's a lot more expensive than SLA, so at first I thought it was really metal. Does anyone know about it?

smitty•1/26/24, 12:40 PM

yup, that's metal. Selective Laser Sintering.

Ssmitty yup, that's metal. Selective Laser Sintering.

Pikas62•1/26/24, 1:19 PM

Ah, thank you very much for the information. Can this be compared to the SLA method in terms of accuracy?

Sir_Diggins•1/26/24, 1:19 PM

If mine ever wears out (which I doubt it will) I would probably go this route. It’s not too badly priced.

Pikas62•1/26/24, 1:20 PM

That's exactly right.

PPikas62 Sure - https://jlc3dp.com/3d-printing-quote. But now I think I was happy too soo...

Fierce_Fire•1/26/24, 1:36 PM

material 326L is stainless steel type 326, and i added a pic of SLS working

Fierce_Fire•1/26/24, 1:37 PM

The laser heats up the metal to where it melts and attaches to the layer under it

smitty•1/26/24, 4:01 PM

SLS prints typically have a rough cast look to them; you'd probably need to make critical areas a bit oversize and machine them later, for any threads or bearing fits

Ssmitty SLS prints typically have a rough cast look to them; you'd probably need to make...

Pikas62•1/26/24, 6:17 PM

Good to know, thx.

Pickle_Surpr1se•1/26/24, 7:01 PM

just got my Rhino today, super excited.. now to try to figure out what type of monstertech rig I need to build to mount this lol

Jon (Bounty_V)•1/26/24, 7:47 PM

just dont buy it from monstertech unless you really like waiting

Pickle_Surpr1se•1/26/24, 7:55 PM

lol true I waited a while even before black friday

It seems the H3 doesn't come with the SFUs, so might make more sense to go straight to H6, but damn

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