V:package: 
RHINO #0390 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0390 Has Shipped!
LIt‘s on its way
V:package: RHINO #0391 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0391 Has Shipped!
PNow I'm officially u-hu (under hundred)!
FNew here, so I apologize in advance if I’m missing something obvious. Anyone know if the average total cost for the diy build is cheaper than the built base (I do not have a 3D printer so would outsource all of that)?
And what’s the average wait time for a diy kit? TIA
And what’s the average wait time for a diy kit? TIA
AThat's me 
. Ugh I'm so amped! For those of you in the U.S how long did shipping take? 
. Ugh I'm so amped! For those of you in the U.S how long did shipping take? 
Aafaik the kits should ship pretty quickly
TThe cost difference should be minimal specially you need to outsource your 3d printing. You'd still need to buy Walmis' motors and that is the main bulk of the cost. Still, if you really pinch it, should be cheaper. Kit ships way faster tho, a few days at best, 2 weeks at worst I reckon.
FThank you! If I have no engineering/CAD background, but a little coding experience, is it even a feasible option? Or a lot of research and self-education required to make such a kit?
THere is what most are using with the 57 series motor kit.
https://github.com/protomaker964/Rhino-FFB-Clone-3D_Printed
https://github.com/protomaker964/Rhino-FFB-Clone-3D_Printed
GitHub
3D print files, parts list and instructions to build a DIY version of the Rhino FFB Stick base using the VPForce motor kit - GitHub - protomaker964/Rhino-FFB-Clone-3D_Printed: 3D print files, parts...
TYou will also need a grip that is compatible, TM/Virpil or winwing/VKB with their respective adapters.
TAt best, you can figure it out by just looking at guides in this discord. At worst, you can always as Walmis and/or the other diy'ers in here.
V:package: 
RHINO #0392 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0392 Has Shipped!V:package: RHINO #0394 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0394 Has Shipped!V:package: 
RHINO #0393 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0393 Has Shipped!
CAny possibility of working directly with MFG to get the holes needed predrilled? I am looking at getting a set for your upcoming mod, and would love to not have to figure out how to drill through them.
JThat would be quite nice
JI'd be much more inclined to order sooner rather than later were that the case. Even if it involved me contacting them to request it special and having to pay them extra to pre drill the holes
SIs it possible to like set the "ramp down temp" of the Motors at 50c and disable the fan?
ZA small 3Dprinted jig would probably be an easy way to make sure even the most careless drill user could get it installed without any problems.
TDoes anyone know if you can get the Rhino ordered with the stronger motors so sustained high-g manoeuvres wouldn’t trip out the motors, which I’ve read it can with the standard motors?
FThat's not the strength but the temperature of the motors iirc
Ait is possible that stronger motors would be able to handle the heat better, but afaik there are no motor options on the rhino currently
Awho knows what's in the future, of course
Aalso pretty much any motor / cooling combination is going to start heating up at some point and the important question is where that point is and how relevant is it to you in particular
FI know I havent seen my motors go above 30c, but they are open, tho passive cooling and max current is about 20A (86BLF04)
TThanks for the info. So what does that mean for an F14 driver who likes to pull hard and long? Does that mean I need to go DIY or will the basic Rhino be enough or is there a 3rd option?
Rcan't wait for MFGs v4s 
RI didn't realize there was apparently a v2 and 3 until a month ago when I opened up their website for the first time since I bought mine
Aif you max out the forces and do an extended full pull fight you might run into heat protection, if you do instant dogdights one after the other you will
Aat that point you will hear the fans kick in and forces will be reduced gradually until the cooling can cope with the produced heat
Aambient temperature will have some effect
Afor me the equilibrium point was somewhere around 50% force or something like that I'm not sure, I got tired before the motors did
MI've been printing drill jigs that use these common threaded drill bushings off Aliexpress and it works like a champ. I use them to tap holes as well, which keeps the tap perpendicular for the crucial beginning of the thread forming.
These things:
These things:
MNote: they commonly come in either M14x1.5 or M14x2.0. I prefer the 1.5 cause I'm printing the threads but probably best to pick one therad and stick to it
Rcant one when setting the ffb on pedals up just make the gear ratio favorable to the motor? So the motor won't have to fight you as hard, and you have to fight it more?
Abasically yes, but there's always a limit
SMy Brunner lasts only seconds if you pull hard continuously, but using trim to reduce back pressure helps.
TAnyone have any pictures of a Yaw2 + rhino?
TWould love to see how someone mount this thing
V:package: 
RHINO #0396 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0396 Has Shipped!
OHoly crap @walmis, this thing is legit!
SHi guys, anyone wo has mounted the rhino on a next next level flightsim seat out there? I get my rhino these days and have no idea how to mount 
S
V:package: RHINO #0395 Has Shipped!
V:package: RHINO #0397 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0397 Has Shipped!
Phey m8, you might need to use the search bar in some of the showcase, diy build & maybe the suggestions channels. But from memory ppl were either removing or lowering the cross bar that is already there for center mounting. Most were using some type of custom plate for the actual mounting, but I think I saw 3d printed ones so you don't need to go crazy & get custom machined stuff.
SYou either have to be good at metalworking or you go to your local thrift store and buy a chair. And then buy som lumber 
MHi fellas, ( or girls) does anyone here have a profile for the AV8BNA Harrier they would not mind sharing?
