Are you asking me for the link? Sorry brother, don’t know it
Are you asking me for the link? Sorry brother, don’t know it
Rok
TIt's here, item number 13, but currently on backorder...
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSflUrHfM9AB0f-0WGyhOLxvXQNMr7E8TBDSYYJUBQ8kqaDC7g/viewform
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSflUrHfM9AB0f-0WGyhOLxvXQNMr7E8TBDSYYJUBQ8kqaDC7g/viewform
Google Docs
Order request for VPforce products.
Please note: to reserve a VPforce RHINO FFB base, please use reservation form here.
Once the order is ready to be fulfilled an invoice will be sent to the provided email address.
Please note: to reserve a VPforce RHINO FFB base, please use reservation form here.
Once the order is ready to be fulfilled an invoice will be sent to the provided email address.
W
new batch is enroute, should arrive at the start of next week (or maybe by Friday)
TAre you on vacation?
If yes yep just use a plug it’s fine.
If this is for a permanent set up I would recommend buying a new power supply with the correct plug for the wall type.
That’s just going to be better and when you want to switch back to UK plugs you still have the power supply for it.
If yes yep just use a plug it’s fine.
If this is for a permanent set up I would recommend buying a new power supply with the correct plug for the wall type.
That’s just going to be better and when you want to switch back to UK plugs you still have the power supply for it.
TDamn those threads……….
Heavy extension do that?
Heavy extension do that?
Hhi there, i've got a question regarding the GAIN function of the pot. how does the gain act with respect to the base setting slider? e.g. will it increase values above 100%, if the slider is set to 100% already? is there a recommendation where to set the slider, if the effect is also allocated to the GAIN pot?
Hthanks
TThe potentiometer gain (when you turn it up or down) has a MAX value as set by the software.
If on the software you have it set to (example) 47%
The knob on the potentiometer turns itself 0-100 but it’s max in put is 47% along the slider.
(So it can’t screw up the software hard stops)
It basically lowers the value to whatever you have set and at max = the value you set in the software.
There’s a decent explanation of how it works in Walmis Intro video but it’s easy to miss because it’s a long video and covers a lot of ground.
If on the software you have it set to (example) 47%
The knob on the potentiometer turns itself 0-100 but it’s max in put is 47% along the slider.
(So it can’t screw up the software hard stops)
It basically lowers the value to whatever you have set and at max = the value you set in the software.
There’s a decent explanation of how it works in Walmis Intro video but it’s easy to miss because it’s a long video and covers a lot of ground.
TSee above forgot to tag you sorry
Hthanks a lot. very clear explanation! says it all 
WI don’t know about ‘heavy’ it’s the same 200 mm gooseneck extension I’ve used on my Virpil base. Just sucks, was getting ready to try the Rhino and the very last step causes a problem.
WThat’s good news, have you ordered enough to satisfy demand?
TYeah man hopefully it gets fixed up soon and you can fly!
Fyou must have cross threaded it then if this wasn't even from using the Rhino.
I also use the 200mm Virpil extension just fine
I also use the 200mm Virpil extension just fine
Sis there any way to remove this thing here? it is getting annoying
SWhat kind of US power supply would I need to get? Like voltage and amps
WThe Rhino PSU is rated 100-230V so only the power plug is different
SThe PSU is in the base right? And the plug is the cord with the box? Just want to be sure I understand
TI’ve seen it sometimes too. Not always though. The little X doesn’t work, nor does clicking on it. It stays on top, no matter what.
SYeap same problem here mate
MMy Constellation Alpha is being recognized by the webapp as a T50CM2, and I can't bind any buttons. Any suggestions?
MPitch and Roll work perfectly fine, but neither button nor hat inputs are recognized by any software. Additionally, the LED strip on top of the joystick doesn't turn on
NYou need to set the grip type in the configurator app.
LED functionality not supported.
LED functionality not supported.
MConfigurator app can see that the Rhino is plugged in, but same as before, no buttons work
MI'm going to try reattaching the joystick to the base, I'll update if that works
MUnplug/Replug didn't work, both the webtool and the Configurator think I'm using a T50CM2
NIt does not auto detect. You need to select the grip from the pull-down in configurator
MCould you screenshot what you’re talking about? The only option the config seems to be a joystick I don’t own. Just trying to make sure I’m looking in the right place
Nyou sure configurator is connected to the rhino properly?
TWhen you set up the centering tool and perform the initial auto calibration.
How close to 2048 do you need to be?
For the life of me I couldn’t get closer than like 1980’s on both sides without going over (like 2200’s)
So what’s up… do I need to remove the 12T and reposition to get a better number?
How close to 2048 do you need to be?
For the life of me I couldn’t get closer than like 1980’s on both sides without going over (like 2200’s)
So what’s up… do I need to remove the 12T and reposition to get a better number?
TIt was inside the blue dot (if that makes a difference).
I just want to make sure I did it correct before I move on and button her up.
I just want to make sure I did it correct before I move on and button her up.
TI think either 1980 or 2200 is probably fine. As long as the minimum is above 0 and the maximum below 4096, you should be good to go.
TI was just worried it might have some adverse affect in games lol
TIt might affect the actual center position of the stick slightly, which could affect the games. If that’s an issue, I think you could manually adjust the upper or lower calibration values to effectively move the center position where you want it.
TYeah I’d hate for it to be off center lol
Wonder if I should just try to get them closer to 2048 by moving the 12T gears..
I just hate to do it if it’s good how it is
Wonder if I should just try to get them closer to 2048 by moving the 12T gears..
I just hate to do it if it’s good how it is
TI’d leave it alone and roll as is. If you notice it being off center, you can adjust the calibration values manually. I doubt you could adjust it by tweaking the small pulley. It has a set screw that should only really sit in one possible position on the motor’s shaft.
TYeah it’s for sure not dead center on the blue dot.
I’m not sure how that translates to windows but if that’s how it would look in control panel it needs calibrated…
Which may mean it needs the centering tool put back on.
I don’t mind I just want to be sure haha.
Leaving it off center feels wrong to me but if it can be adjusted later maybe that’s all that matters.
Who knows I’ve not been past this step hahahaha
I’m not sure how that translates to windows but if that’s how it would look in control panel it needs calibrated…
Which may mean it needs the centering tool put back on.
I don’t mind I just want to be sure haha.
Leaving it off center feels wrong to me but if it can be adjusted later maybe that’s all that matters.
Who knows I’ve not been past this step hahahaha
TIt’s in the blue dot BUT not centered and not even close to me it needs like half a tooth on both sides…. I think I had one of them at 1988 but the next tooth was like 2250
Nthe absolute encoder center position does not matter so long as the extents of a given axes are 0<4096. When you calibrate, the center will be exactly 1/2 between the endpoints. That number becomes center, not 2048.
If your stick is not perfectly centering inside the blue circle, it is likely because your grip weight plus any extension offset is dragging the stick away from center because it isn't balanced.
Use the balance force feature + adaptive recentering to counteract any imbalance in the weight distribution of the grip.
If your stick is not perfectly centering inside the blue circle, it is likely because your grip weight plus any extension offset is dragging the stick away from center because it isn't balanced.
Use the balance force feature + adaptive recentering to counteract any imbalance in the weight distribution of the grip.
TNo grip installed.
I stopped at the step where you make the boot cover and waited.
So you’re saying to continue the build
- install the boot, and the grip and then begin an actual calibration (with the 22 degree throw limiters installed).
At that point it will create a new center by measuring its physical endstops and then recentering itself?
At that point it will sit on the blue dot?
Again sorry for such a basic question I really did try to search “auto calibrate” and “centering tool” and came up mostly blanks
I stopped at the step where you make the boot cover and waited.
So you’re saying to continue the build
- install the boot, and the grip and then begin an actual calibration (with the 22 degree throw limiters installed).
At that point it will create a new center by measuring its physical endstops and then recentering itself?
At that point it will sit on the blue dot?
Again sorry for such a basic question I really did try to search “auto calibrate” and “centering tool” and came up mostly blanks
NYes (though I would caution turning it on without any grip attached, with no weight it will be quite unstable with any significant forces enabled).
The "true center" (2048) is irrelevant after calibration. The calibrated center will be 1/2 way between min/max when you calibrate. You just need the endpoints to be between 0-4096 so that the motor knows which direction the calibrated center is from whatever position it is in when you turn it on.
On the graph:
Crosshairs = Calibrated Center
Blue Dot = axis position
Blue Circle = Spring effect center
The "true center" (2048) is irrelevant after calibration. The calibrated center will be 1/2 way between min/max when you calibrate. You just need the endpoints to be between 0-4096 so that the motor knows which direction the calibrated center is from whatever position it is in when you turn it on.
On the graph:
Crosshairs = Calibrated Center
Blue Dot = axis position
Blue Circle = Spring effect center
Si'll add- If, while doing calibration, one of the numbers is negative or over 4096, then you have to slip the belt off and move it a few teeth on the big gear. this diagram will get you close enough:
S
TI will go ahead and finish the build.
I was following the guide that says to do the centering tool and calibration before adding the throw limiters.
I left it as 1980’s (both axis) last night.
Now I’ll go ahead and install the throw limiters, install the boot, install the grip before I plug it in again and attempt to auto calibrate like it says in the manual.
Thanks for your help guys!
I was following the guide that says to do the centering tool and calibration before adding the throw limiters.
I left it as 1980’s (both axis) last night.
Now I’ll go ahead and install the throw limiters, install the boot, install the grip before I plug it in again and attempt to auto calibrate like it says in the manual.
Thanks for your help guys!
TMy pulley already has those lines on it but the lines are straight up when it’s at 2048 not pointed toward the gimbal pulley.
Smake a new line then
TI’ll see if I can snap a pic later if this doesn’t go correctly
TWhat I did was unhook the belt and turn the motor to dead center 2048 and then attempt to add the belt but apparently 2048 is between teeth (maybe half tooth).
1 tooth on the gear is 1980’s and the next tooth over is 2200’s
1 tooth on the gear is 1980’s and the next tooth over is 2200’s
TSo I’m not really sure I can fix it with moving a tooth… I tried that a lot and settled on the lower of the two
Sclose enough. if nothings negative or over 4096 then its fine