Yeah, that's normal. Anticogging takes some current
Yeah, that's normal. Anticogging takes some current
FOh I see thanks! 
Atrying to open telemffb
NGenerally caused by one of two things.
- 1: Windows Defender or other AV ate some files due to false positive malware detection
- 2: You accidentally copied the exe out of the folder rather than creating a shortcut
HSpeaking of currents, I have a question about the motors: If I noticed correctly the fan activates when either motor (usually the pitch) reaches 50 C and turns of when under 45 C give or take, but I wonder what would be the critical temperature for the motors before they take damage? I can’t find any specs about it. 60, 70, 80 C…. when will they take damage?
I’m asking, 1. out of curiosity and 2. because I will use the same motor and pcb in my pedals-mod, but without a cooler. I assume it will work out, but who knows….. (btw. when will the current limiter set in?)
I’m asking, 1. out of curiosity and 2. because I will use the same motor and pcb in my pedals-mod, but without a cooler. I assume it will work out, but who knows….. (btw. when will the current limiter set in?)
WI guess the limiting factor would be the motor's magnet curie temperature, at which they start to demagnetize, which is unknown. But anyhow the motors are thermally limited, similarly how GPUs self limit to maintain a stable max temp.
AI redownloaded via the link in telem ffb rather than GitHub then updated and it worked. 
lol I was trying to run inside the folder but it works now
lol I was trying to run inside the folder but it works now
Shey so my red power interrupt button came loose and now spins freely
Show can i tighten it down? do i need to rip the wheels off to pull the top cover?
SI ended up doing just that. Is there a way to pull the red part off the button? I tignened it down, but idk if it'll hold long term
NFor future ,you should be able to get to the nut with a pair of needle nose pliers just by removing the front panel.
VSo, soon to get my order thingy. Im in the processing stage, has anyone used the base with a thrustmaster warthog OG grip? I'm worried about the metal thing breaking. What sticks are you guys using? Sorry if its the wrong channel
SGod that would have been way smarter. i had to pull both big wheels off and everything going throgh the top lol
Sill keep that in mind next time it gets loose
FI think anticogging for y axis is not working perfectly. I could feel minute bump at a center of y axis movement(x axis is perfectly smooth). Can it be caused by a belt is too tight?
FOr just defect of motor?
FWhen the power turned off, I can feel much stronger cogging than x axis's
LFWIW I had a similar situation which was solved by removing 20 cm extension + VKB adapter and installing a 10 cm extension. Never found out which one caused it. The bump/noise was also only in Y axis like in your case. Could be something completely different though and idk whether you are even using an extension or adapter.
WYeah, when the belt is too tight it will introduce some cogging-like feel. You can verify however how the small pulley spins with the belt removed.
F@Fourgrinder Oh I don't use any extension and adapter 
anyway thank you for your case
anyway thank you for your caseF@walmis Ok I'll try, thank you!
TKeep in mind if you wanted to mount the Rhino the other way you can also rotate the stop button this way so it’s still facing you and saying “stop” or whatever.
All you do after that is Invert the Axis in the Vpconfig software (NOT in games!)
All you do after that is Invert the Axis in the Vpconfig software (NOT in games!)
FI used the Rhino with the TM F-16/Warthog grip for a while but changed to a Virpil Constellation rather quick.
It works but the Warthog isn't just my cup of tea. Way to heavy and stiff feeling. That is just personal preference though.
It works well and keeps its balance with decent spring settings.
It works but the Warthog isn't just my cup of tea. Way to heavy and stiff feeling. That is just personal preference though.
It works well and keeps its balance with decent spring settings.
WAnyone know if you can use Virpil Alpha thumb stick as buttons in each direction? There was a way to do that in Virpil Software - any ideas on how to mimic that in the VPForce config?
Fidentify the HAT number in the Vpforce tool and then click it in "Hats as buttons"
WAwesome, thanks boss - must have missed that.
DHey, i'm having trouble sending the '!info emailadress' message to the bot, am i missing something?
Fwhat is the bot responding if you have trouble then?
Fworking for me
L@walmis, I had a billing issue (fraud screening). I've cleared the issue, can you DM to figure out next steps?
WHi, looks like payment went through fine. So all looks good!
HCheck if the motor pulley is firmly tightened on the axis. I forgot to loctide it properly and it came loose. It didn’t slip completely, but it had play which lead to a „cogging“ feel around the middle position.
HI‘m using a TM metal grip. So far, all is fine. I‘m planning to switch to a Virpil just for length reasons though.
LOkay thank you! If anything comes up, let me know. Happy to assist however I can, thx you for making these sticks! I've been on the list for almost a year lol
WYou’re in for a great experience. I can’t imagine going back to a spring based stick
F@Hiob oh I'll look at that also thank you
SHello mates. With what filament you print the gimbal? and how much infill usually use ?
MHi, in relation to the Heatblur Phantom.....I am interested in introducing a bit less sensitivity , to help out in refueling....with a "normal" stick, this is easily done by introducing some curve to teh axis, however, obviously, this is not good practice with an FFB stick. Is there a way within the config file options to emulate this effect at all? Thank you.
HI got my parts pre-printed from Winger. He used CF-PETG iirc. However out of curiosity and for DIY test purposes I printed a gimbal half from regular PETG myself and it seems plenty strong enough.
HHowever. The week link isn’t the gimbal (I think). but the central hub/gimbal-stick-connector.
HI still think it can be printed from PETG, but you need to think about layer orientation.
H(Also from some from youtubers testing CF enforced filament isn’t necessarily stronger in bending breaks - but I never tested that myself)
SI bought a couple of VP shift registers. Should the switch/buttons be connected to negative or positive?
WButtons should be pulled to GND when pressed, so negative
S
KI would like to know this also. Walmis was saying something about adding dead zone option to firmware. I think it would be great to have @walmis
Ncurves and/or saturation in the axis tune in DCS will cause problems because it creates a disconnect between the "FFB X/Y" and the "Axis X/Y"... this is why people find the trimmed centerpoint jumping when they release the force trim button if they have curves set on helis. It is because the FFB axis position is always linear from -1 to 1 for each axis. When that position doesn't match the "axis position".. bad things happen.
On the F-4, the "FFB Center" changes often because of the bobweight effect. I don't imaging it would end will if you tried adding a curve or changing the saturation in the game.
What you could try, if you are willing to sacrifice 10-15% of your total throw (who ever needs full deflection anyway?), would be to create a type of axis scaling by artificially increasing your calibrated range beyond the physical limits of the joystick.
For example, my calibrated limits for my Y axis are 1073<>2831 with a center of 1952. That\s +/- 879. If I were to increase that logical range equally in both directions, it would have the effect of reducing the sensitivity of the axis. I could manually set my limits to 973 and 2931 while leaving the auto calibration untouched. Now the game would think that full deflection is +/- 979, but the full throw of my physical axis would only be +/- 879, making it less sensitive overall.
Disclaimer: I haven't tried this in practice so YMMV.
On the F-4, the "FFB Center" changes often because of the bobweight effect. I don't imaging it would end will if you tried adding a curve or changing the saturation in the game.
What you could try, if you are willing to sacrifice 10-15% of your total throw (who ever needs full deflection anyway?), would be to create a type of axis scaling by artificially increasing your calibrated range beyond the physical limits of the joystick.
For example, my calibrated limits for my Y axis are 1073<>2831 with a center of 1952. That\s +/- 879. If I were to increase that logical range equally in both directions, it would have the effect of reducing the sensitivity of the axis. I could manually set my limits to 973 and 2931 while leaving the auto calibration untouched. Now the game would think that full deflection is +/- 979, but the full throw of my physical axis would only be +/- 879, making it less sensitive overall.
Disclaimer: I haven't tried this in practice so YMMV.
SIt works but the buttons signal is bouncing, in the debug I see that every other read is not detecting the buttons pressed. Is this normal?
SHow normal is cracking anyway? I got my stick since 2 weeks. i slightly tightend all visible screws and the teo big screws under the cover. Still, in the extreme position (11 deg limiter) it's cracking.
HI found the throw limiter causing a lot of unwanted noises due to the two halfs connecting in a unfortunate position. I there fore made my own, that is built a little bit different and more firm (I don’t have a adjustable CAD though - thats outside my capabilities)….
Another point of cracking on my device is the main stick/gimble connector. Even though all scres are tight, plastic on plastic sometimes makes cracking noises… I‘m still thinking about a possible solution….
Another point of cracking on my device is the main stick/gimble connector. Even though all scres are tight, plastic on plastic sometimes makes cracking noises… I‘m still thinking about a possible solution….
WWhich axis ?