When the power turned off, I can feel much stronger cogging than x axis's
When the power turned off, I can feel much stronger cogging than x axis's
LFWIW I had a similar situation which was solved by removing 20 cm extension + VKB adapter and installing a 10 cm extension. Never found out which one caused it. The bump/noise was also only in Y axis like in your case. Could be something completely different though and idk whether you are even using an extension or adapter.
WYeah, when the belt is too tight it will introduce some cogging-like feel. You can verify however how the small pulley spins with the belt removed.
F@Fourgrinder Oh I don't use any extension and adapter 
anyway thank you for your case
anyway thank you for your caseF@walmis Ok I'll try, thank you!
TKeep in mind if you wanted to mount the Rhino the other way you can also rotate the stop button this way so it’s still facing you and saying “stop” or whatever.
All you do after that is Invert the Axis in the Vpconfig software (NOT in games!)
All you do after that is Invert the Axis in the Vpconfig software (NOT in games!)
FI used the Rhino with the TM F-16/Warthog grip for a while but changed to a Virpil Constellation rather quick.
It works but the Warthog isn't just my cup of tea. Way to heavy and stiff feeling. That is just personal preference though.
It works well and keeps its balance with decent spring settings.
It works but the Warthog isn't just my cup of tea. Way to heavy and stiff feeling. That is just personal preference though.
It works well and keeps its balance with decent spring settings.
WAnyone know if you can use Virpil Alpha thumb stick as buttons in each direction? There was a way to do that in Virpil Software - any ideas on how to mimic that in the VPForce config?
Fidentify the HAT number in the Vpforce tool and then click it in "Hats as buttons"
WAwesome, thanks boss - must have missed that.
DHey, i'm having trouble sending the '!info emailadress' message to the bot, am i missing something?
Fwhat is the bot responding if you have trouble then?
Fworking for me
L@walmis, I had a billing issue (fraud screening). I've cleared the issue, can you DM to figure out next steps?
WHi, looks like payment went through fine. So all looks good!
HCheck if the motor pulley is firmly tightened on the axis. I forgot to loctide it properly and it came loose. It didn’t slip completely, but it had play which lead to a „cogging“ feel around the middle position.
HI‘m using a TM metal grip. So far, all is fine. I‘m planning to switch to a Virpil just for length reasons though.
LOkay thank you! If anything comes up, let me know. Happy to assist however I can, thx you for making these sticks! I've been on the list for almost a year lol
WYou’re in for a great experience. I can’t imagine going back to a spring based stick
F@Hiob oh I'll look at that also thank you
SHello mates. With what filament you print the gimbal? and how much infill usually use ?
MHi, in relation to the Heatblur Phantom.....I am interested in introducing a bit less sensitivity , to help out in refueling....with a "normal" stick, this is easily done by introducing some curve to teh axis, however, obviously, this is not good practice with an FFB stick. Is there a way within the config file options to emulate this effect at all? Thank you.
HI got my parts pre-printed from Winger. He used CF-PETG iirc. However out of curiosity and for DIY test purposes I printed a gimbal half from regular PETG myself and it seems plenty strong enough.
HHowever. The week link isn’t the gimbal (I think). but the central hub/gimbal-stick-connector.
HI still think it can be printed from PETG, but you need to think about layer orientation.
H(Also from some from youtubers testing CF enforced filament isn’t necessarily stronger in bending breaks - but I never tested that myself)
SI bought a couple of VP shift registers. Should the switch/buttons be connected to negative or positive?
WButtons should be pulled to GND when pressed, so negative 
S
KI would like to know this also. Walmis was saying something about adding dead zone option to firmware. I think it would be great to have @walmis
Ncurves and/or saturation in the axis tune in DCS will cause problems because it creates a disconnect between the "FFB X/Y" and the "Axis X/Y"... this is why people find the trimmed centerpoint jumping when they release the force trim button if they have curves set on helis. It is because the FFB axis position is always linear from -1 to 1 for each axis. When that position doesn't match the "axis position".. bad things happen.
On the F-4, the "FFB Center" changes often because of the bobweight effect. I don't imaging it would end will if you tried adding a curve or changing the saturation in the game.
What you could try, if you are willing to sacrifice 10-15% of your total throw (who ever needs full deflection anyway?), would be to create a type of axis scaling by artificially increasing your calibrated range beyond the physical limits of the joystick.
For example, my calibrated limits for my Y axis are 1073<>2831 with a center of 1952. That\s +/- 879. If I were to increase that logical range equally in both directions, it would have the effect of reducing the sensitivity of the axis. I could manually set my limits to 973 and 2931 while leaving the auto calibration untouched. Now the game would think that full deflection is +/- 979, but the full throw of my physical axis would only be +/- 879, making it less sensitive overall.
Disclaimer: I haven't tried this in practice so YMMV.
On the F-4, the "FFB Center" changes often because of the bobweight effect. I don't imaging it would end will if you tried adding a curve or changing the saturation in the game.
What you could try, if you are willing to sacrifice 10-15% of your total throw (who ever needs full deflection anyway?), would be to create a type of axis scaling by artificially increasing your calibrated range beyond the physical limits of the joystick.
For example, my calibrated limits for my Y axis are 1073<>2831 with a center of 1952. That\s +/- 879. If I were to increase that logical range equally in both directions, it would have the effect of reducing the sensitivity of the axis. I could manually set my limits to 973 and 2931 while leaving the auto calibration untouched. Now the game would think that full deflection is +/- 979, but the full throw of my physical axis would only be +/- 879, making it less sensitive overall.
Disclaimer: I haven't tried this in practice so YMMV.
SIt works but the buttons signal is bouncing, in the debug I see that every other read is not detecting the buttons pressed. Is this normal?
SHow normal is cracking anyway? I got my stick since 2 weeks. i slightly tightend all visible screws and the teo big screws under the cover. Still, in the extreme position (11 deg limiter) it's cracking.
HI found the throw limiter causing a lot of unwanted noises due to the two halfs connecting in a unfortunate position. I there fore made my own, that is built a little bit different and more firm (I don’t have a adjustable CAD though - thats outside my capabilities)….
Another point of cracking on my device is the main stick/gimble connector. Even though all scres are tight, plastic on plastic sometimes makes cracking noises… I‘m still thinking about a possible solution….
Another point of cracking on my device is the main stick/gimble connector. Even though all scres are tight, plastic on plastic sometimes makes cracking noises… I‘m still thinking about a possible solution….
WWhich axis ?
SDo You need pull down resistors on the inputs?
WNo, the inputs have pull-ups. Can you show the how it behaves ?
SRebooted the PC and now it works as it should. Sorry for the trouble!
SIt's on both pitch and roll. Here is a video, the cracking is between second 33 and 37: https://youtu.be/DGEhnrvv-k0 ... thinking about it, it may be wodden construction that sqeaks. Does anyone else have these sounds too?
WUsually when a problem is gimbal related it makes the creaks on a single axis.. Hmm, hard to say. Try maybe holding the base with a downward force and moving the gimbal then, also try it without the extension.
SI accidentally downloaded my collective settings to the joystick. I didn’t have any backup of the settings but I tried to restore them.
But know in DCS the F4 doesn’t work as it should, it pitches violently up when I activate “force feedback” in DCS settings. I read that this happens if You enable ffb in the F4 without a ffb joystick. It worked great before I messed up. Any tips?
Also in the F14 the joystick axis doesn’t follow the trim.
But know in DCS the F4 doesn’t work as it should, it pitches violently up when I activate “force feedback” in DCS settings. I read that this happens if You enable ffb in the F4 without a ffb joystick. It worked great before I messed up. Any tips?
Also in the F14 the joystick axis doesn’t follow the trim.
GDid you apply nose trim down before take off?
DI have a 86BLF04 motor which I am using for my Virpil Collective. My motor axis is 'X' but I understand it should be 'Y' for a collective. Is there firmware available to change the motor to 'Y' axis?
SThe problem came back again with the bouncing inputs. I added a resistor on the data input and the problem seems solved. I got 60cm wire between the shift register and the board.
NYou might need to get beta firmware from walmis. There is a "swap axis" checkbox in configurator but I think it is not working for single motor setups in the latest configurator/firmware.
DThanks. Walmis was kind enough to follow up.
FI put in an order on May 20th, but have never received confirmation. Can you help?
FThanks for your help. It says that I don't have permission to send messages on this channel....
Fyou can just directly message the bot
MHi, just found that "Breakout Force" at 5% makes forward trim unusable in the A-10Cii