@walmis, I had a billing issue (fraud screening). I've cleared the issue, can you DM to figure out n
@walmis, I had a billing issue (fraud screening). I've cleared the issue, can you DM to figure out next steps?
WHi, looks like payment went through fine. So all looks good!
HCheck if the motor pulley is firmly tightened on the axis. I forgot to loctide it properly and it came loose. It didn’t slip completely, but it had play which lead to a „cogging“ feel around the middle position.
HI‘m using a TM metal grip. So far, all is fine. I‘m planning to switch to a Virpil just for length reasons though.
LOkay thank you! If anything comes up, let me know. Happy to assist however I can, thx you for making these sticks! I've been on the list for almost a year lol
WYou’re in for a great experience. I can’t imagine going back to a spring based stick
F@Hiob oh I'll look at that also thank you
SHello mates. With what filament you print the gimbal? and how much infill usually use ?
MHi, in relation to the Heatblur Phantom.....I am interested in introducing a bit less sensitivity , to help out in refueling....with a "normal" stick, this is easily done by introducing some curve to teh axis, however, obviously, this is not good practice with an FFB stick. Is there a way within the config file options to emulate this effect at all? Thank you.
HI got my parts pre-printed from Winger. He used CF-PETG iirc. However out of curiosity and for DIY test purposes I printed a gimbal half from regular PETG myself and it seems plenty strong enough.
HHowever. The week link isn’t the gimbal (I think). but the central hub/gimbal-stick-connector.
HI still think it can be printed from PETG, but you need to think about layer orientation.
H(Also from some from youtubers testing CF enforced filament isn’t necessarily stronger in bending breaks - but I never tested that myself)
SI bought a couple of VP shift registers. Should the switch/buttons be connected to negative or positive?
WButtons should be pulled to GND when pressed, so negative 
S
KI would like to know this also. Walmis was saying something about adding dead zone option to firmware. I think it would be great to have @walmis
Ncurves and/or saturation in the axis tune in DCS will cause problems because it creates a disconnect between the "FFB X/Y" and the "Axis X/Y"... this is why people find the trimmed centerpoint jumping when they release the force trim button if they have curves set on helis. It is because the FFB axis position is always linear from -1 to 1 for each axis. When that position doesn't match the "axis position".. bad things happen.
On the F-4, the "FFB Center" changes often because of the bobweight effect. I don't imaging it would end will if you tried adding a curve or changing the saturation in the game.
What you could try, if you are willing to sacrifice 10-15% of your total throw (who ever needs full deflection anyway?), would be to create a type of axis scaling by artificially increasing your calibrated range beyond the physical limits of the joystick.
For example, my calibrated limits for my Y axis are 1073<>2831 with a center of 1952. That\s +/- 879. If I were to increase that logical range equally in both directions, it would have the effect of reducing the sensitivity of the axis. I could manually set my limits to 973 and 2931 while leaving the auto calibration untouched. Now the game would think that full deflection is +/- 979, but the full throw of my physical axis would only be +/- 879, making it less sensitive overall.
Disclaimer: I haven't tried this in practice so YMMV.
On the F-4, the "FFB Center" changes often because of the bobweight effect. I don't imaging it would end will if you tried adding a curve or changing the saturation in the game.
What you could try, if you are willing to sacrifice 10-15% of your total throw (who ever needs full deflection anyway?), would be to create a type of axis scaling by artificially increasing your calibrated range beyond the physical limits of the joystick.
For example, my calibrated limits for my Y axis are 1073<>2831 with a center of 1952. That\s +/- 879. If I were to increase that logical range equally in both directions, it would have the effect of reducing the sensitivity of the axis. I could manually set my limits to 973 and 2931 while leaving the auto calibration untouched. Now the game would think that full deflection is +/- 979, but the full throw of my physical axis would only be +/- 879, making it less sensitive overall.
Disclaimer: I haven't tried this in practice so YMMV.
SIt works but the buttons signal is bouncing, in the debug I see that every other read is not detecting the buttons pressed. Is this normal?
SHow normal is cracking anyway? I got my stick since 2 weeks. i slightly tightend all visible screws and the teo big screws under the cover. Still, in the extreme position (11 deg limiter) it's cracking.
HI found the throw limiter causing a lot of unwanted noises due to the two halfs connecting in a unfortunate position. I there fore made my own, that is built a little bit different and more firm (I don’t have a adjustable CAD though - thats outside my capabilities)….
Another point of cracking on my device is the main stick/gimble connector. Even though all scres are tight, plastic on plastic sometimes makes cracking noises… I‘m still thinking about a possible solution….
Another point of cracking on my device is the main stick/gimble connector. Even though all scres are tight, plastic on plastic sometimes makes cracking noises… I‘m still thinking about a possible solution….
WWhich axis ?
SDo You need pull down resistors on the inputs?
WNo, the inputs have pull-ups. Can you show the how it behaves ?
SRebooted the PC and now it works as it should. Sorry for the trouble!
SIt's on both pitch and roll. Here is a video, the cracking is between second 33 and 37: https://youtu.be/DGEhnrvv-k0 ... thinking about it, it may be wodden construction that sqeaks. Does anyone else have these sounds too?
WUsually when a problem is gimbal related it makes the creaks on a single axis.. Hmm, hard to say. Try maybe holding the base with a downward force and moving the gimbal then, also try it without the extension.
SI accidentally downloaded my collective settings to the joystick. I didn’t have any backup of the settings but I tried to restore them.
But know in DCS the F4 doesn’t work as it should, it pitches violently up when I activate “force feedback” in DCS settings. I read that this happens if You enable ffb in the F4 without a ffb joystick. It worked great before I messed up. Any tips?
Also in the F14 the joystick axis doesn’t follow the trim.
But know in DCS the F4 doesn’t work as it should, it pitches violently up when I activate “force feedback” in DCS settings. I read that this happens if You enable ffb in the F4 without a ffb joystick. It worked great before I messed up. Any tips?
Also in the F14 the joystick axis doesn’t follow the trim.
GDid you apply nose trim down before take off?
DI have a 86BLF04 motor which I am using for my Virpil Collective. My motor axis is 'X' but I understand it should be 'Y' for a collective. Is there firmware available to change the motor to 'Y' axis?
SThe problem came back again with the bouncing inputs. I added a resistor on the data input and the problem seems solved. I got 60cm wire between the shift register and the board.
NYou might need to get beta firmware from walmis. There is a "swap axis" checkbox in configurator but I think it is not working for single motor setups in the latest configurator/firmware.
DThanks. Walmis was kind enough to follow up.
FI put in an order on May 20th, but have never received confirmation. Can you help?
FThanks for your help. It says that I don't have permission to send messages on this channel....
Fyou can just directly message the bot
MHi, just found that "Breakout Force" at 5% makes forward trim unusable in the A-10Cii
FI've tried, but all it says is that it does not understand me. FRUSTATING.
Fjust type:
"!info your.email@emailhost.com"
"!info your.email@emailhost.com"
Fwith your personal e-mail obviously
VHi everyone. Sometimes it happens that when I fly my roll trim get stuck, so my stick push to one of the sides. If I trim back the trim in the sim get back to full left (or right). I have more than one grip (virpil alpha and virpil vfx) and it happens with both. So I don't think it is the grips.
Did it happen to someone else?
Did it happen to someone else?
FThanks! That worked. I really appreciate the help.
KIt happened to me 3 times but with nose down trim on pitch. I've switch off rhino, reloaded vpcvonfig and switched it back again, that cleared it. Unusual and very random
VOk so there must be some bug in the firmware
VIt happened to me 3 times in the same flight
WWhich aircraft? Could be DCS is sending wrong trim data
VThe F-14
VIt is not the first time it happened to me, but now it happened 3 times in a row
VIn the DCS controls indicator the trim indicator moves (when it does happen) like If I was pressing the trim left (or right)
WThere's something bugged in the F-14 trim implementation. Last time I tested, sometimes trim runs away when switching pilot/rio seats.