Is there any harm in leaving the base powered on for long periods? Or should I always disable it whe
Is there any harm in leaving the base powered on for long periods? Or should I always disable it when not in use?
II always turn mine off and unplug it after use because I am overly cautious. I'm always worried about somehow hitting the cable and breaking it off or damaging the port.
SIt shouldn't hurt if to be powered, but also won't hurt to be unpowered
TDue to the fact it can move when games start before you put your hand on the stick..
And can whack the end stops pretty hard
You should ALWAYS power down the unit with the Emergency Stop.
When powering up the unit grab and hold the stick steady so as to avoid it accidentally taking a hard smack against the end stops.
Mine has never done it.. my Rhino is tame like a puppy but I also never turn it above 60%
You can read stories of dudes who got whacked in the junk or whose sticks smack the tables or whatever is around.
So… Hold stick the whole time unless in game and on trim.
Hold stick while powering on the unit and hold the stick when you power it down.
No need to unplug as the emergency stop is a physical stop switch so the power is cut.
Unplugging is good practice and will extend the life of the PSU but it’s no big deal when using a real switch like the stop switches.
No amount of power can jump those switches so you good to go.
But yeah… hold it before you start and never ever leave the stop switch open.
Stop switch… now add HOTAS cover and she’s safe
And can whack the end stops pretty hard
You should ALWAYS power down the unit with the Emergency Stop.
When powering up the unit grab and hold the stick steady so as to avoid it accidentally taking a hard smack against the end stops.
Mine has never done it.. my Rhino is tame like a puppy but I also never turn it above 60%
You can read stories of dudes who got whacked in the junk or whose sticks smack the tables or whatever is around.
So… Hold stick the whole time unless in game and on trim.
Hold stick while powering on the unit and hold the stick when you power it down.
No need to unplug as the emergency stop is a physical stop switch so the power is cut.
Unplugging is good practice and will extend the life of the PSU but it’s no big deal when using a real switch like the stop switches.
No amount of power can jump those switches so you good to go.
But yeah… hold it before you start and never ever leave the stop switch open.
Stop switch… now add HOTAS cover and she’s safe
SI'm curious about the E stop killing power to EVERYTHING and not just the motor drivers
TWell technically the board is powered by the USB but the motors are what make the stick jump
So I should say the E stop kills all power to the motors but the unit can still be plugged in and mess with the software that’s the safest way to experiment with settings
That’s for keeping me honest
So I should say the E stop kills all power to the motors but the unit can still be plugged in and mess with the software that’s the safest way to experiment with settings
That’s for keeping me honest
TThe same ideas apply though..
Just be sure when you twist the stop switch and turn it on you’re holding the stick.
Otherwise… you might get whacked
Just be sure when you twist the stop switch and turn it on you’re holding the stick.
Otherwise… you might get whacked
SOh cool XD
Thanks for helping cover my chronic lack of research
Thanks for helping cover my chronic lack of research
TWe’re all just students of the game.
Here there are no masters so we all just do the best we can and pass as much info around as possible.
It’s A LOT of stuff that goes into the Rhino so don’t feel bad.
I’m constantly learning about features (whole freaking features) I didn’t know existed lol
Here there are no masters so we all just do the best we can and pass as much info around as possible.
It’s A LOT of stuff that goes into the Rhino so don’t feel bad.
I’m constantly learning about features (whole freaking features) I didn’t know existed lol
STLike… how did I not know that..
And it’s okay that’s what makes the hive mind so much stronger
And it’s okay that’s what makes the hive mind so much stronger
SI was a tiny bit worried how windows and DCS would handle the USB dropping out with the E stop. Glad to hear that doesn't happen
FI don't own a Rhino (yet), but several other (FFB) devices. I am using a power strip with individual switches for each socket so I can activate the main power (220V) for each device as needed and can also switch of the whole thing with the main switch of the power strip. Additionally I am using an USB hub with individual on/off switches for each port (Sabrent works very well for me). So I can power on and off each USB device easily for the configuration I want to use. And at the end of a session all can be powered off, so no unnecessary waste of energy and increased lifetime of all electronic parts.
FThanks @walmis for helping with fedex/customs clearance shenanigans! My Rhino has made it to it’s new home and getting installed today! Just in time to try it out on the new Kiowa in DCS. Very excited…
FMy stick’s C of G is rearwards due to the gooseneck shaft and heavy Warthog grip, meaning it naturally pulls back. I want to compensate for this so that for a loose helicopter cyclic I don’t have to counter the rearwards force with my hand, pushing forwards. I realise I can do this using the Spring setting, but this isn’t the loose feel I want. It also doesn’t centre it fully. What else can I do?
SLead and a hose clamp
(@FarFutureFox I had the Same issue and found a setting I think was called static rode or so thing similar that can adjust the center position for the weight and balance of your stick
F“Static rode”?? No idea what rode is. I’ll have a look in the manual… thanks!
SI assume they ment "mode". I too have heard about something like that: the software tries to compensate for the CoG without effecting the rest of the stick feel
CI use balance spring effect for this and adaptive centering on the spring effect
MMechanical counterbalance
T@Thadiun Okona adds weight and therefore inertia to the stick which is bad for motors and all 3d printed parts
MNope. Adds mass yea but the motors work less hard when sticks are mass balanced because they’re no longer constantly working to hold it up. Ff sticks dont tend to be used hands off so a little increase in mass is inconsequential.. it’s already fighting your hands lol
MIf they freely swung around (hands free) by design then yes adding weights would increase wear as you state
SExample- the steel slug on my collective. Without it, the tiny 57BLF01 set with balance spring would warm up pretty quickly
FYes, I use adaptive centering but it doesn’t work all the way.
FWith a counterweight, can the Rhino take the extra weight structurally? I get how the motors won’t be constantly in action, when balanced
WCheck the manual about balancing:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1YL5DLkiTxlaNx_zKHEYSs25PjmGtQ6_WZDk58_SGt8Y/edit#heading=h.9yc6t8idkb39
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1YL5DLkiTxlaNx_zKHEYSs25PjmGtQ6_WZDk58_SGt8Y/edit#heading=h.9yc6t8idkb39
Google Docs
VPforce RHINO FFB User Manual Version 0.7 (WIP) Table of Contents 1. Welcome 1 2. Getting Started 3 2.1. Technical Specifications 4 2.2. Physical Setup 5 2.2.1. The VKB Adapter 6 2.2.2. The WinWing Adapter 6 2.2.3. The RHINO Throw Limiter Adapters 7 2.3. Initial Connection and Updating th...
CThe main thing is balance spring effect which works for me.
FI'll test that now, thanks. The Static Force setting also sounds useful.
CRead the chapter balancing the grip in the manual. This might help you
RStatic force and balance spring really helped once tuned in. I usually start with center then use 4 separate extreme angles. Works great.
BI have the z-extension, so have more offset than your usual s-extension and use static force to 5% on the pitch(y?) axis centers it right up.
BA percent or two might be all you need with an s, depending how heavy your grip is of course.
RI’ve got mine front and left 10% and right and back 5%. Again I use center and extreme of each axis to find the sweet spot for the center
CInteresting. I forgot about the static force. Checked my settings and realized I have it with 4% on the y axis.
DHi pilots!
I've finally finished configuring my Monstertech setup and my Rhino sits proudly in the center! Thanks @walmis for this extraordinary work and thanks to all those who work on the software! You guys are amazing!
I really encourage you (hum hum) to read the manual carefully as it contains a multitude of little details that will solve your questions! I made the mistake of not doing it right away, and it took me quite a while! After reading it (re hum hum) I was able to configure everything optimally! What an incredible slap in the face! It's really amazing!
Many thanks to you!
I've finally finished configuring my Monstertech setup and my Rhino sits proudly in the center! Thanks @walmis for this extraordinary work and thanks to all those who work on the software! You guys are amazing!
I really encourage you (hum hum) to read the manual carefully as it contains a multitude of little details that will solve your questions! I made the mistake of not doing it right away, and it took me quite a while! After reading it (re hum hum) I was able to configure everything optimally! What an incredible slap in the face! It's really amazing!
Many thanks to you!
V:package: 
RHINO #0583 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0583 Has Shipped!
PCool! Can we see how your rhino is mounted? More pics! Also, how are the honeycomb products mounted?
DThanks for the comments, I'll send some photos later!
I can already tell:
I can already tell:
- Rhino with the Monstertech plate (the photo will show it well but you have to be very very low! The 20cm extension is a bit long for me...the 10cm a bit short...so I took the Z (10+5cm = ok but it didn't look great with 2 extensions...)
- Honeycomb Bravo => I took the monstertech side support, and the plate for the TM Airbus throttle (I put it at 90° so that it holds well).
JAny chance there’s a group buy coming up for the Rhino motor kits?
TKits are sold on an individual basis.
Just sign up and grab it!
Just sign up and grab it!
TI love this set up as well and I love the Virpil covers! Might need something like that myself it’s sweet
DThanks ! Here's some photos ! Yes yes I still move something
D
SI see you still have your Virpal installed. What do you use it for?
DMainly for the Fenix A320 on MSFS. But I'm not convinced... all the joysticks seem bland since the arrival of the Rhino! But I love my Honeycomb Bravo so I'm trying things out !!!
TYeah man are those panel covers lazer cut? They are awesome I love how you’ve got everything set up
DDeathDonky Prints
Custom. Made affordable. Your 3D printing and Laser etching professional. #1 place for Virpil Control Mods.
DThe boss is amazing, kind, full of patience !! The price is OK
DI forgot but the led are awesome !! I post some night pictures later