Happy to report the problem is resolved! Shoutout to walmis for the fastest and best customer servic
Happy to report the problem is resolved! Shoutout to walmis for the fastest and best customer service I've ever received!
HWhat was it?
SThe affected motor needed to be spun up and recalibrated
SWalmis was able to do it remotely which was great!
HAwesome! Thanks.
DHi, I am having some issues today. The motors show as being offline usb shows connected.
DI can connect via the website. Firm ware is up to date. The emergency stop is not engaged.
DHave unplugged and replugged both power and usb. I do get the beeps but no connecton to the motors
DAny help in troubleshooting would be appreciated.
DIt also shows up under devices and printers as working properly
Dupdate: unplugged usb and replugged...seems to e working again.....lol
SThe ole reliable unplug and plug back in method!
Nso you were able to feel the "bump" on the motor pulley itself, when energized and with master gain up?
SYes. It became less noticeable at higher gains but it was there.
Nhow did you do the recalibration process? is it the normal auto calibration process
SI didn’t do it myself, walmis did it through Remote Desktop. Took less than 15 minutes
SIt was calibrating the anti cogging of the motor itself
SBut I don’t think the software is something that we have access to as end users
A
RWhat is the best material to print limiters in since they will be getting contact with the gimbal extension?
P@walmis are you there? can you merge my order? if is not possible just ship it
HI would recommend PETG for the limiter.
HIt is more elastic than PLA and less brittle
FCan I do anti-cogging calibration by myself?
FAs I asked before I could feel minute bump in y axis center and its suspected anti-cogging related
CHello all, I just received unit 605. I can't seem to figure this out , my VP Force is detecting telemetry fine from DCS and MSFS but XP12 isn't showing up. Do I need to turn on telemetry export in xp12 somewhere? I was in F15 squadrons from 1995 to 2002. I can't explain how close this ffb is to the real jet.
Thank you for any help
Thank you for any help
C@walmis this piece of kit is amazing , see my comment above
RWhat about abs reinforced with carbon fiber
RMay be overkill but it’s free for me
BFedEx/US customs is requesting a description for the package to understand its contents.
Should I submit the description myself or is it better for @walmis to do so?
Sorry if this isn’t the right channel for this.
Should I submit the description myself or is it better for @walmis to do so?
Sorry if this isn’t the right channel for this.
HAbrasive material on the throw limiter is counter productive. And total overkill on cost and print complexity. I wouldn't do that. I'd rather go with simple PLA if you don't have PETG laying around.
Sthis is what worked for me
Sthats for the kits though.
WPaperwork is submitted, it should clear quickly hopefully
RI mean the cyclic hardly ever makes contact with the limiter. Especially flying helicopters
RNot really an issue.
HThat‘s true of course.
RMy print should be done by three today so I’ll install it. What is the best practice for installing a limiter and recalibrating? Should I start from a fresh config file or just recalibrate the current file that I have? I’m still using the same config file since I’ve owned the rhino, so I’m not sure if it’s current settings, etc. etc.
AI just recalibrated so it's almost guaranteed to be the worst way
RBuhahaha
RI’m going from 11* to 10-9 degree limiter for help setup.
HJust remove any stops you may have set in the software and do a calibration. That‘s all.
Rperfection, thanks team
LI can't see this sunken screw and I'm afraid I will strip it. What is it? Torx 8, hex or what?
I was finally able to fix the thumping noise/feel when at max spring force and moving full fwd/aft. This screw was just a little too loose. It was not my extension as I thought before. Thank you for pointing me to the right direction.
I was finally able to fix the thumping noise/feel when at max spring force and moving full fwd/aft. This screw was just a little too loose. It was not my extension as I thought before. Thank you for pointing me to the right direction.
Hshould be hex. Take a small L-hex and screw it in by hand. With the large grip you could indeed strip it. Use loctide.
RI had to use ASA instead. Turned out really well. I’ll snap a picture later.
MBeen enjoying my Rhino for the past month. A lingering issue I've tried to resolve is a recurring but not entirely consistent tapping/clunk sound that I can feel through the stick when shifting load on the x axis (I have it swapped to be my y axis). I am attaching a video where it does it at first movement. I have tried tightening the pulleys, the set screw on the motor shaft, the screws of the grip connector to the aluminum shaft, and everything I can access without a full tear down. It does it with or without a grip attached, and whether or not mounted in the rig. Any suggestions on what might need adjustment or tightening?
HThat doesn’t seem to be a TM grip. Because, that one is doing this between the grip and fastener (had to figure out a solution, because it drove me nuts). But still - check if the grip itself is tight.
HIt could also be the cable for the buttons, that hit the frame at certain movements. For thoroughly troubleshooting, you probably have to remove the boot.
NDid I miss some information for you? or shall I wait for next firmware update for old Virpil T50 grip? Thanks in advance.