What is the best material to print limiters in since they will be getting contact with the gimbal ex
What is the best material to print limiters in since they will be getting contact with the gimbal extension?
P@walmis are you there? can you merge my order? if is not possible just ship it
HI would recommend PETG for the limiter.
HIt is more elastic than PLA and less brittle
FCan I do anti-cogging calibration by myself?
FAs I asked before I could feel minute bump in y axis center and its suspected anti-cogging related
CHello all, I just received unit 605. I can't seem to figure this out , my VP Force is detecting telemetry fine from DCS and MSFS but XP12 isn't showing up. Do I need to turn on telemetry export in xp12 somewhere? I was in F15 squadrons from 1995 to 2002. I can't explain how close this ffb is to the real jet.
Thank you for any help
Thank you for any help
C@walmis this piece of kit is amazing , see my comment above
RWhat about abs reinforced with carbon fiber
RMay be overkill but it’s free for me
BFedEx/US customs is requesting a description for the package to understand its contents.
Should I submit the description myself or is it better for @walmis to do so?
Sorry if this isn’t the right channel for this.
Should I submit the description myself or is it better for @walmis to do so?
Sorry if this isn’t the right channel for this.
HAbrasive material on the throw limiter is counter productive. And total overkill on cost and print complexity. I wouldn't do that. I'd rather go with simple PLA if you don't have PETG laying around.
Sthis is what worked for me
Sthats for the kits though.
WPaperwork is submitted, it should clear quickly hopefully
RI mean the cyclic hardly ever makes contact with the limiter. Especially flying helicopters
RNot really an issue.
HThat‘s true of course.
RMy print should be done by three today so I’ll install it. What is the best practice for installing a limiter and recalibrating? Should I start from a fresh config file or just recalibrate the current file that I have? I’m still using the same config file since I’ve owned the rhino, so I’m not sure if it’s current settings, etc. etc.
AI just recalibrated so it's almost guaranteed to be the worst way
RBuhahaha
RI’m going from 11* to 10-9 degree limiter for help setup.
HJust remove any stops you may have set in the software and do a calibration. That‘s all.
Rperfection, thanks team
LI can't see this sunken screw and I'm afraid I will strip it. What is it? Torx 8, hex or what?
I was finally able to fix the thumping noise/feel when at max spring force and moving full fwd/aft. This screw was just a little too loose. It was not my extension as I thought before. Thank you for pointing me to the right direction.
I was finally able to fix the thumping noise/feel when at max spring force and moving full fwd/aft. This screw was just a little too loose. It was not my extension as I thought before. Thank you for pointing me to the right direction.
Hshould be hex. Take a small L-hex and screw it in by hand. With the large grip you could indeed strip it. Use loctide.
RI had to use ASA instead. Turned out really well. I’ll snap a picture later.
MBeen enjoying my Rhino for the past month. A lingering issue I've tried to resolve is a recurring but not entirely consistent tapping/clunk sound that I can feel through the stick when shifting load on the x axis (I have it swapped to be my y axis). I am attaching a video where it does it at first movement. I have tried tightening the pulleys, the set screw on the motor shaft, the screws of the grip connector to the aluminum shaft, and everything I can access without a full tear down. It does it with or without a grip attached, and whether or not mounted in the rig. Any suggestions on what might need adjustment or tightening?
HThat doesn’t seem to be a TM grip. Because, that one is doing this between the grip and fastener (had to figure out a solution, because it drove me nuts). But still - check if the grip itself is tight.
HIt could also be the cable for the buttons, that hit the frame at certain movements. For thoroughly troubleshooting, you probably have to remove the boot.
NDid I miss some information for you? or shall I wait for next firmware update for old Virpil T50 grip? Thanks in advance.
NI had that in the beginning, would have a single thump mainly when I picked up the stick from periods of rest and seemingly at random. Seemed to be internal gimbal related, but haven't solved it as after a rebuild the gimbal has gotten much worse. Same MCGU
OQuick question about setting up the stick.
I’ve managed to do the install and the set up.
Only problem I have is if I bank or climb and release the stick, it centralises but the aircraft stays in the bank / climb until it crashes.
Left stick starts the bank, but it continues until I give it right stick, then it continues turning.
I don’t seem to be able to get it not to continue until it’s crashed.
Spent over an hour last night, but I’m hopeless with computers.
Any idea what is wrong.
Stick powers up and stays in the center
I’ve managed to do the install and the set up.
Only problem I have is if I bank or climb and release the stick, it centralises but the aircraft stays in the bank / climb until it crashes.
Left stick starts the bank, but it continues until I give it right stick, then it continues turning.
I don’t seem to be able to get it not to continue until it’s crashed.
Spent over an hour last night, but I’m hopeless with computers.
Any idea what is wrong.
Stick powers up and stays in the center
HNot sure if I can follow. As far as you describe it, this is expected behavior from an Aircraft (well, depend a bit on what aircraft precisely).... You need to counter control to bring it back to level. If you deflect your ailerons to get in a 30 degree right bank and then neutralize the control input, the AC will stay banked until you deflect the ailerons in the other direction and level it again. For pitch it is a bit different (because AoA/Pitch is also a function of speed), but a FBW aircraft like the F-16 e.g. will keep any attitude you steer it to until you give opposite commands.
HEasiest way to tell if there is a problem with your input device (I dont think so) is to bring up the controls overlay and see if the virtual stick position corresponds with your physical stick.
(As Hiob above says you roll, into the bank then centralise the stick to stop the roll at the desired angle of bank and hold the attitude with some back pressure on the stick otherwise the loss of lift due to the bank will let the nose drop.
OJust to clear this up.
If I bank over, it continues to turn,
Even when the stick centralised itself, it’s still in the turn until you put opposite input.
Then it will continue that direction.
I’m over halfway through my PPL, it’s not supposed to do that.
It’s either right bank or left bank , up or down, no matter what I do.
If I bank over, it continues to turn,
Even when the stick centralised itself, it’s still in the turn until you put opposite input.
Then it will continue that direction.
I’m over halfway through my PPL, it’s not supposed to do that.
It’s either right bank or left bank , up or down, no matter what I do.
HContinues to roll/bank or continous to turn? The latter - of course it does, as long as it is banked. It will turn in the direction the lift vector is pointing....
HWhat are your (virtual) controls doing in relation to the physical?
OIf I initiate a turn with stick and rudder, the aircraft will start the turn, it then continues until it’s almost inverted and into a spiral downward.
Applying full opposite input then makes it the same.
There’s no levelling the turn.
The stick returns to the center position while the aircraft just goes on its merry way to destruction.
Plug in the old warthog base and it’s fine, flys like a normal aircraft.
I’m on circuits at my local airport in an Ikarus C42, was hoping this feedback stick would help with my practice touch and go as there’s no feel with the warthog.
Applying full opposite input then makes it the same.
There’s no levelling the turn.
The stick returns to the center position while the aircraft just goes on its merry way to destruction.
Plug in the old warthog base and it’s fine, flys like a normal aircraft.
I’m on circuits at my local airport in an Ikarus C42, was hoping this feedback stick would help with my practice touch and go as there’s no feel with the warthog.
HCan't say anything about FFB-implementation in civil sims, sorry. Maybe it is borked. Dunno.
OThat’s exactly what’s supposed to happen, but there’s no middle ground to level the aircraft.
I can turn the ikarus without even looking at the instruments while I’m flying with my instructor.
This bloody thing won’t let me do that.
It’s either full left/right , up or down.
Nothing in between.
It’s definitely me as I don’t know what the hell to change to correct it.
As the saying goes, all the gear and no idea lol
I can turn the ikarus without even looking at the instruments while I’m flying with my instructor.
This bloody thing won’t let me do that.
It’s either full left/right , up or down.
Nothing in between.
It’s definitely me as I don’t know what the hell to change to correct it.
As the saying goes, all the gear and no idea lol
OI think it’s me with my little understanding of computers that’s the problem.
Give me electric cars or anything mechanical and I’m fine, mechanical fitter and mechanic
, but a bloody PC and I’m stuffed.
Everything I use is on an IPad or similar
Give me electric cars or anything mechanical and I’m fine, mechanical fitter and mechanic
, but a bloody PC and I’m stuffed.Everything I use is on an IPad or similar
WIf you open the https://vpforcecontrols.com/usb/rhino/ does indicator move smoothly when you move the joystick within the square?
I guess it could be the controls binding in MSFS is wrong
I guess it could be the controls binding in MSFS is wrong
OYes, it works as the instructions.
Just don’t know where to go from here with it.
Sometimes i wish I’d have just kept all the money and bought myself a used Ikarus.
I’ve spent £12 k on it so far
Just don’t know where to go from here with it
.Sometimes i wish I’d have just kept all the money and bought myself a used Ikarus.
I’ve spent £12 k on it so far
AWhat sim? Ima reckon it could be MSFS and maybe you have the wrong types of axis bound?
S@walmis good news adapter arrived and the rhino isnt just producing F's (in chat)
Sthere should be no axes bound in msfs. it all comes from telemffb
ABut maybe something is bound tho, by default and causing the issue?
Syes could be.. luckily the rhino isnt one of those common sticks that just auto-configure themselves