Bf109 stabilizer at 100% positive and the plane still pitches up. The “Override Trim” feature doesn’t hold the overdriven trim position. That’s the issue
Ok, I finally understood I think. You just may not to bind in-game stabilizer on the same button as the rhino trim. A nasty overcome but it seems to work.
I have played IL-2 GB a fair amount, but never (yet) with FFB. As I recall, IL-2 GB can easily double-bind different in-game functions (even opposing ones) to the same input. This can be both good and bad, depending on circumstances. Not saying that is the problem here, but it has caught me a few times in the past so I thought I'd just mention it to be thorough.
I have a separate input (trim wheel) for trim in IL-2 GB & I get the same thing with the bf109 full trim & still it pitches up. I think it's just the way the fm & il2 are with ffb maybe?
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The kit contains: 86BLF03 or 86BLF04 FFB motor Large gear + 14T motor pulley Belt HTD5M 400 Motor mount + fasteners Assembled wiring Toe brake connectors to VPforce board Power supply - 19V 9.5A 18...
This is not true. You should be able to trim the stabilizer to get level flight. There might be some very specific power setting, altitude and wind that it is unable to trim properly, but that is not the inherent design. I have been flying all variants of the 109 a couple times a week for the last 9 months and have not had an issue getting trimmed level flight.
In Dcs it’s a documented feature with a lot of discussion about the phenomenon that’s why I assumed it’s similar in Il2.
Please try it again: increase the airspeed up to 550 km/h with stabilizer setting 100% positive. If you take the hand off the stick you should see the nose going up.
unboxed my new rhino a little while ago - should it have moved/centered once you twist the red power... button thing to the right to release it? I did that with the software running and it seemed like the power might have been having issues.
silly question... have you tried pulling and re-plugging the USB after powering on the Rhino? I sometimes see odd behavior with Configurator if I power cycle the device while its running (but I am running 3 devices so its a bit different situation).
Other than that, a common issue is overloaded USB hubs. Try direct attach to PC if you can (if it isn't already).
Do you still feel the cogging in the axis when the power is on or is it smooth?
Also, even if it were properly connecting, with the profile you have set in your video (with master gain at 0), it wouldn't center the stick.
i'll give that a shot - it is plugged into a big usb hub with like 8-9 other devices. i'm not really sure what cogging feels like, it's relatively smooth, but i feel some... uhh lumpiness, for lack of a better term? it's nothing like hitting an afterburner detent or anything
direct connected the usb cable to the motherboard/replaced cable while the power was connected. also, the power adapter is going directly into the wall
Yikes…that sounds like either the internal connections to the stop switch are loose or maybe a faulty PS. (Those are my wild guesses). I’ll tag @walmis for you to make sure he sees it.
I want to configure my new MFG Rhino pedals. Must/Should I rename the "joystick" and change the ID? How to avoid conflicts with the Rhino base? Is there a tutorial on how to configure FFB pedals?
Most important thing is probably that you make sure that you don’t reach max motor current before the stops. Otherwise it is easy to overpower and tilt the motor by strength of your legs.
In general, don’t overdo it with the spring gain. Keep it at 50% and dial in your other settings. When you are all set, you can increase it slowly to your taste, but make sure you stay below max current at max deflection.
Yeah, setting up the software and tuning in all parameters can be a bit overwhelming in the beginning. But once it clicks, the software (including TelemFFB) is pure gold.
My prior career was an avionics guy in the military, and now Im a software guy as well as a pilot (just for fun). I enjoy tuning these types of things as long as its not an every day thing
What Kind of Powersupply is the best Choice? I think Notebook Powerbricks are to Weak.... So a bigger Meanwell is needed? I only have 48V Power Supply here that we need for our Motion Platforms....
Keep in mind, that the amps specs for the motor are not equivalent with the amps drawn from the PSU. Those amps are only applied momentarily per coil by the motor controller. So a 40A PSU is a bit overkill, even for the big motors. I don't what the maximum amps need to be, but I would estimate a third at most.