Are you using a throw limiter adapter on your setup?
Are you using a throw limiter adapter on your setup?
DNop ! I use only the settings in the "effects" tab of TelemFFB: Endstop/axis scaling/etc. Not a physical one
DFor now, I have a extension of 10cm/my virpil Alpha and the VP Force base
CThis is not true. You should be able to trim the stabilizer to get level flight. There might be some very specific power setting, altitude and wind that it is unable to trim properly, but that is not the inherent design. I have been flying all variants of the 109 a couple times a week for the last 9 months and have not had an issue getting trimmed level flight.
ICheck the knowledge base for the FFB mod for the MFGs made by Hiob. I did it to my pedals and it’s incredible.
HIn Dcs it’s a documented feature with a lot of discussion about the phenomenon that’s why I assumed it’s similar in Il2.
Please try it again: increase the airspeed up to 550 km/h with stabilizer setting 100% positive. If you take the hand off the stick you should see the nose going up.
Please try it again: increase the airspeed up to 550 km/h with stabilizer setting 100% positive. If you take the hand off the stick you should see the nose going up.
HCI will give it a shot and see. 
Gunboxed my new rhino a little while ago - should it have moved/centered once you twist the red power... button thing to the right to release it? I did that with the software running and it seemed like the power might have been having issues.
GG...doesn't seem normal to me. if someone would confirm, i'd appreciate it
Gapologies for the hobbit feet
Nsilly question... have you tried pulling and re-plugging the USB after powering on the Rhino? I sometimes see odd behavior with Configurator if I power cycle the device while its running (but I am running 3 devices so its a bit different situation).
Other than that, a common issue is overloaded USB hubs. Try direct attach to PC if you can (if it isn't already).
Do you still feel the cogging in the axis when the power is on or is it smooth?
Also, even if it were properly connecting, with the profile you have set in your video (with master gain at 0), it wouldn't center the stick.
Other than that, a common issue is overloaded USB hubs. Try direct attach to PC if you can (if it isn't already).
Do you still feel the cogging in the axis when the power is on or is it smooth?
Also, even if it were properly connecting, with the profile you have set in your video (with master gain at 0), it wouldn't center the stick.
Gi'll give that a shot - it is plugged into a big usb hub with like 8-9 other devices. i'm not really sure what cogging feels like, it's relatively smooth, but i feel some... uhh lumpiness, for lack of a better term? it's nothing like hitting an afterburner detent or anything
GGdirect connected the usb cable to the motherboard/replaced cable while the power was connected. also, the power adapter is going directly into the wall
NYikes…that sounds like either the internal connections to the stop switch are loose or maybe a faulty PS. (Those are my wild guesses). I’ll tag @walmis for you to make sure he sees it.
WYeah, something's fishy here. It tested fine before shipping, so it might be a PSU or an undetected wiring issue. DMd.
KI want to configure my new MFG Rhino pedals.
Must/Should I rename the "joystick" and change the ID?
How to avoid conflicts with the Rhino base?
Is there a tutorial on how to configure FFB pedals?
Must/Should I rename the "joystick" and change the ID?
How to avoid conflicts with the Rhino base?
Is there a tutorial on how to configure FFB pedals?
HHey, yeah, you need to deactivate one axis in the VP config and give it a different ID and name it Pedals. It is all pretty straight forward.
HThere is some tips on setting them up in the knowledge base thread.
HMost important thing is probably that you make sure that you don’t reach max motor current before the stops. Otherwise it is easy to overpower and tilt the motor by strength of your legs.
HIn general, don’t overdo it with the spring gain. Keep it at 50% and dial in your other settings. When you are all set, you can increase it slowly to your taste, but make sure you stay below max current at max deflection.
BWoohoo, invoice just paid...now we wait
Jmine shipped this morning! so much learning to do.... lol
HYeah, setting up the software and tuning in all parameters can be a bit overwhelming in the beginning. But once it clicks, the software (including TelemFFB) is pure gold.
BMy prior career was an avionics guy in the military, and now Im a software guy as well as a pilot (just for fun). I enjoy tuning these types of things as long as its not an every day thing
HHas someone the data of the 86BLF04 x1 Motor Kit? What is the Max Motorpower? What Amp does the Powersupply need?
HRated torque 1.4 NM peak torque 4.2NM (rated amps 14, peak 38)
H
V:package: 
RHINO #0689 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0689 Has Shipped!V:package: RHINO #0688 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0688 Has Shipped!HWhat Kind of Powersupply is the best Choice? I think Notebook Powerbricks are to Weak.... So a bigger Meanwell is needed? I only have 48V Power Supply here that we need for our Motion Platforms....
HFor Rudder and Pitch this one?
H
KMean Well is a very good brand. If that is the required voltage and power, it will do the job.
WMeanwell LRS-350-24 is a very good deal
HKeep in mind, that the amps specs for the motor are not equivalent with the amps drawn from the PSU. Those amps are only applied momentarily per coil by the motor controller. So a 40A PSU is a bit overkill, even for the big motors. I don't what the maximum amps need to be, but I would estimate a third at most.
WA single motor draws about 150-160W at max current
Wand follows the P=I^2*R law, so at half the torque it uses only 1/4th the power
V:package: RHINO #0690 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0690 Has Shipped!
HIs that for the 57 or 86 motors?
Wboth are roughly the same
W86 have more Nm/A
HNice, I have that "tiny" PS here from my old Dyadic Actuators 
Will test with them but replace them as the internal fan is annoying.
Will test with them but replace them as the internal fan is annoying.HAh, yeah - I see from the spec sheet. How would the voltage effect these? The big motor could in theory run on 48V. Just go faster? Less waste heat?
HI get that your logic board only support 24V, right?
HI started by using the old PSU from a 3D-printer. It had a fan that would instantly respond to any change in load. Pulling more G = more fan noise. Quite irritating. I then got the Meanwell 350/24 - it is dead silent since then.
WThe voltage rating is KV in essence i.e. how fast it spins per volt, the less KV the more torque per amp. The 86BLF is rated 3000RPM @ 48V for example.
The voltage, at standstill @ max torque, in the windings is something like 3V. So the 48V etc rating is useless if motor is not used for spinning applications.
The voltage, at standstill @ max torque, in the windings is something like 3V. So the 48V etc rating is useless if motor is not used for spinning applications.
CDoes the Rhino work in old space combat games such as Descent Freespace 1 and 2 that had force feedback support? I know they were just simple haptic effects such as when firing guns, missiles, or applying after burner, but just curious. Thanks.
Awith anything that old it's a big maybe, but Rhino does support directx ffb
