Bambu is Hank g sale starting Monday. I’m going full in x1c
Bambu is Hank g sale starting
Monday. I’m going full in x1c
Monday. I’m going full in x1c
WYeah, on that note those Rhino pulley covers, I’ve done one now, half way through the second one, looks like it’ll cost me less than two quid in filament I think, whereas to buy them from QR4Rigs it’s £32.25 with delivery in the UK.
FLooks like a good time to buy! What are your reasons going with the X1C instead of the P1S?
FQR4Rigs has really great products, but after equiping my hole rig with quick releases I ended up at £600 - without taxes and shipping to EU... But after some hours work in FreeCAD I have now DIY quick releases, costs including the trail and error filament maybe 80 EUR.
JCare to share your designs? 
HBut you did pick up, that I was specifically speaking about the A1 mini? Nothing else. That goes for 199,-
HOf course you can’t print very big parts (>180mm) with it. That’s the downside.
FI would love to, but as the design is "heavily inspired" by the QR4Rigs products I have strong legal concerns to make it public... Sorry!
RBut you designed your qr-system from scratch, didn't you? So you did not copy any plans or whatsoever. I see no problem designing a competitive product and sharing it - otherwise we would have lots of monopolies out there 
R(by the way, I would also be interested 
)
)
FThe CAD design is from scratch, but the shape and size of all parts is the same as theirs - was enough work to do that so I didn't want to create a new design just to find out it's not working for some reason. The Ultra parts are 10h prints so you don't want to go for a lot of iterations. So maybe it's a grey zone, but to be honest I don't wanna find that out... Another thing is that just providing STL files will not work as the gap between the brackets and sliding parts depends on the 3D printer - first tests on a FLSUN V400 needed a gap around 0.15mm, with the Bambu Lab P1S I am using now the gap is 0.04mm (!) - out of the box that kind of precision is really impressive!
RIt’s onsale and in my budget lol. Like the extra features too. Was looking at the qidi plus 4 also.
RI’m coming from an Ender 3 pro. Getting into abs and asa for medical training products that need to be outdoor and stand up to some stress. Will probably proof everything in pla and petg first.
RWas thinking about the ams too but not sure I’ll use it as nothing I can think of would need more than one filament unless I want to use a different filament as a support or layer for ease of final completion
AIt depends on how often you are going to do multi material prints. It is really inefficient the way bambu does it, with the constant loading and unloading, time and material wise. So I opted against it on my P1S. My use case would also be support printing, and occasional text. Right now I have all my filament in a big airtight container with moisture absorbing granular and a bowden feed right from the box. I think I'll keep it that way.
BUnless you need something very special that rely on having different materials with different properties you don't really need multi material prints.
If its for simple colour its better to print cheap grey and learn to paint.
If its for simple colour its better to print cheap grey and learn to paint.
FI was also thinking about X1C and P1S and decided to go for the P1S and upgrade extruder and nozzle to hardened steel when needed (doing 99% of my prints in PETG at the moment). I decided that I don't really need the other additional features of the X1C and they are not worth the additional price. I took the AMS - and I am really happy with it! Not for multicolor prints (as Arno said, that's just a waste of filament), but the automated loading of the filament is really, really nice. And I could not stop smiling seeing the first time the run out of one filemant spool and the automated switch to the second one - that's amazing! No more weighing (is there enough on the spool for this print??), no more spools with just a few filament remains on it, a good place to keep four spools dry - I'm loving it!
FThe only disadvantage of the AMS is that my favourite filament brand has a little bend to fix the end on the spool, that does not fit through the AMS. So I have to catch the last layer of filament on the spool to get access to the end and cut the last cm off. That can easily be done during printing.
AI also went for P1S and bought the hardened steel bits separately. Adavntage of the X1C is the faster processor, allowing for a better camera feed, and better build chamber temperature control
AAnd of course the better screen and lidar, but I didn't see value in that for myself.
BI have 2 Rhinos: a DIY Rhino clone and a ready-made device from VPforce.com. Are the default values in the expert settings of the VPForce FFB configurator identical for both devices? The power supply units are almost identical.
WI’m glad I got the AMS with my P1S too, not just for the automatic loading and changing of filament but also what that means for supports as after doing a few prints with and without using the Support filament the printer comes with for the interface between supports and the printed object I’m going to be using that more as I just had one print where I couldn’t get all of the support off using the same filament as the build and had to file it down to fit something in it.
I didn’t use it for this print as it would have made the print take a lot longer as it was a curved overhang, then did a another print with the Support filament as interface and it’s just so nice how it comes off, lesson learnt, sometimes it’s worth the wait.
As for wasted filament, how else are you to do multi-filament prints, unless your printer has multiple extruders that’s unavoidable, and there are multiple ways to reduce that or use it to make something else.
As for P1S vs X1C, from a lot of the comparisons and suggestions online the lidar and better camera, etc just isn’t worth it for the vast majority of people, the lidar doesn’t even always work and when it does the differences it makes are tiny, and yes the touch screen is nice, but you are not really going to be using it much. It’s setting up the print at a computer to make sure all the settings are as you want them and then sending it to the printer, and then using the mobile app maybe which can do what that screen does, so I don’t use the screen. It’s just not worth it the big jump in price.
I didn’t use it for this print as it would have made the print take a lot longer as it was a curved overhang, then did a another print with the Support filament as interface and it’s just so nice how it comes off, lesson learnt, sometimes it’s worth the wait.
As for wasted filament, how else are you to do multi-filament prints, unless your printer has multiple extruders that’s unavoidable, and there are multiple ways to reduce that or use it to make something else.
As for P1S vs X1C, from a lot of the comparisons and suggestions online the lidar and better camera, etc just isn’t worth it for the vast majority of people, the lidar doesn’t even always work and when it does the differences it makes are tiny, and yes the touch screen is nice, but you are not really going to be using it much. It’s setting up the print at a computer to make sure all the settings are as you want them and then sending it to the printer, and then using the mobile app maybe which can do what that screen does, so I don’t use the screen. It’s just not worth it the big jump in price.
LUnless the DIY plan you followed states otherwise, I think you can start with
RHINO-defaults.vpconf. Builders at 🔧diy-builds please correct me if I'm wrong.
BSo "Reset Config" basically leads to correct results? Where are these values stored? In the individual device?
LMine is in ... \VPforce_FFB_Configurator_v1.0.16-1\configs
LOh you mean where they go when you apply? In the devices I guess.
NNo, "Reset Config" will take it back to board defaults. You want to import the rhino default config from the path Fourgrinder said.
BThe default values are therefore stored in the respective Rhino board.
NDefault board settings != Default settings for the Rhino
SI’ve done the same thing using some of my SimFab brackets on my 6Dof, what collective grips are you using? I’m looking to see what compatible with the Rhino.
WIm using the Virpil UH60 grip! Its not on the list for compatible grips but it works fine with the generic grip profile
SGreat, thank you! I was bouncing between the Ka-50 or UH60. Did you lockout the X-Axis? I’m in the process of 3D printing a pulley lock to stop the sway.
@Warwolf09
@Warwolf09
WI just pretty much set a virtual stop in the rhino configurator but i was thinking in some kind of mechanical way! Let me know how it goes
RI’m also going to insulate the x1c so the chamber temps are more consistent and add a chamber heater and charcoal hepa filter. Plan on printing a lot of abs and asa and cf infused stuff and nylons. I might get the ams not sure yet. I’ve got 2 polymaker dryers I can print from for now.
SJust filled out my reservation form omg things getting CLOSE!! Choppers gonna get GOOD!
V:package: 
RHINO #0745 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0745 Has Shipped!V:package: 
RHINO #0744 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0744 Has Shipped!V:package: 
RHINO #0743 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0743 Has Shipped!
ZMine just shipped, can't wait to get compressor stall in F-14A. Also bought the last available F-14 grip from VKB Europe. Seams I'm a bit lucky today, flying will be so much better
WJust got my Rhino earlier, two days before Fedex said. 
Just looking through the Configurator now. I’ve got a Virpil Z-Extension and a MongoosT-50 CM2 grip on it for the moment and need to make sure I’m doing this right with the balancing as it obviously falling backwards.
I’ve switched on the Balance Spring and set 50% in the Y Positive AFT box, that doesn’t fully centre the stick even with 100% on the master gain, so switched on the Adaptive Recentering at 50% as well and that gets it there.
Anything I should know on this, is that the way to do it correctly?
Just looking through the Configurator now. I’ve got a Virpil Z-Extension and a MongoosT-50 CM2 grip on it for the moment and need to make sure I’m doing this right with the balancing as it obviously falling backwards.
I’ve switched on the Balance Spring and set 50% in the Y Positive AFT box, that doesn’t fully centre the stick even with 100% on the master gain, so switched on the Adaptive Recentering at 50% as well and that gets it there.
Anything I should know on this, is that the way to do it correctly?
WAlso, I have the 11 degree limiter in, and it’s making a few creaking noises going past the half way point on the left and right edges where the gap between the two halves of the limiter pieces are, is that normal? I certainly don’t like it.
FYou may want to post screenshots of your settings to see how you are setting up the balance spring.
About the creaking... Does that happen when you run the stick forward and back through the side? Or just moving it forward and back through the middle? In my case if I run the stick forward and back through the sides rubbing against it I can feel a bit of the gap but not much and definitely no creaking. Also a posting video of the issue may help.
About the creaking... Does that happen when you run the stick forward and back through the side? Or just moving it forward and back through the middle? In my case if I run the stick forward and back through the sides rubbing against it I can feel a bit of the gap but not much and definitely no creaking. Also a posting video of the issue may help.
TMy limiter creaks too when the center piece passes over the gap where the two halves meet. Rarely am I ever at the edge of travel when flying so it’s only noticeable for me during calibration.
TAnnoying none the less
HThat‘s why I designed my own limiter, I couldn’t stand the noises. Unfortunately my solution isn’t parametric and only serves my special needs…
WI have a 3D printer to make new ones but haven’t got into design yet. I don’t know why it’s designed like this, I saw the gap before I put them in and thought that was odd.
HI think it‘s designed as a two piece so that you can change it without disassemble the grip. However even as two part there would be better solutions (putting the divide in the corners and make them overlap). But in a second step I simply made it one piece.
WYeah, I was thinking corners. Do you have a stl file for your version and what angles are they? I wonder if I can reduce the issue with some tape perhaps.
HI need to search….somewhere I have it…..
WWell for now I put a strip of the thick heavy duty black Gorilla tape I had around where the stick touches the limiter inside and it worked, much better, no noises or perceivable changes in smoothness going past the halfway point either side. Will have to see how it lasts. The limiters really need a redesign though.
E577 Rhinos to go!
