If your grip has the twist axis locked it may be locked while twisted to one side. I would unlock it and see if the readings in the configurator change as you twist it and lock it when it's in the center. If you twist it and there is no change in the reading then there may be an issue with your twist axis sensor in the grip itself.
Attaching Your VPC Grip IMPORTANT for the latest revision of the VPC Grips with twist axis! Before attaching your grip, ensure that the locking screws are flush with the screw collar. 1. Visually inspect both the grip plug and b...
Hey guys, finally got my rhino mounted and configured and the base stuff is incredible. Having some issues getting telemFFB to even recognize that im playing DCS and give me the option to play with affects there at all, would anyone know how to resolve this? got a screenshot of the live log for reference
So no telemetry from DCS. My first thought is there is something wrong with export.lua.
Have you checked for clues in the DCS log file? It can look like this for example:
Lua::Config (Main): Call error LuaExportStart
Lua::Config (Main): Call error LuaExportStart
and so on
If you are using other programs which depend on Lua export, you can try moving TelemFFB line up/down in case the other program has installed itself incorrectly
A relatively easy thing you can try is this: Rename your saved games/DCS folder to something like DCS.saveme. Then start DCS and let it create a new file structure. Then load TelemFFB and let it install the export script and modify the export lua. Restart DCS and load into an aircraft and see if the telemetry starts flowing or if you get the same error in the log. All your bindings will be gone since they are stored in DCS folder you renamed, but this is just a test and you can delete the new DCS folder and rename your old one back
All three motors I got from Walmis had a marking on the face of the motor axis that showed the middle (~2048) position. Assumingly he put in on when calibrating the motors and putting on the firmware. But of course I don't know for sure if he does that every time.
But it isn't that important anyway. I can't make a video because I don't want to take apart my rhino (again) but it is really pretty simple. Leave the belt off, manually set the calibration values to 0-4096 for each axis apply and save. Then turn all effects except spring off. The motor will turn to the correct position on its own and due to the spring it will hold it with some force. THEN put on the belt (of course hold the stick upright for that). That will give you a center position in the proximity of 2048 (doesn't matter when it is 1999 or 2078). Then do a proper calibration. Et Voila.....
Any basic docs/videos on changing out the 3D printed Thrustmaster adapter that comes with the pre-assembled Rhino joystick for the metal version? It looks like it should be straight forward, but I couldn't find any docs and always like to verify before I start taking stuff apart!
I am pretty sure since you don’t have damper, inertia, or friction checked in the effects tab, that the sliders on the settings tab do nothing. My understanding is that you take effects% * settings% to get total allowable %.
Try ticking damper box first, store settings, and see if that helps. High values for inertia and friction can cause instability (motor shutdowns) so best to feed those in slowly.
Hey guys I'm having some issues with the config for the F4. The stick's neutral postion requires a ton of nose down to maintain level flight in cruise. The trim seems to do nothing. Any ideas?
What do you mean? The trimmed stick position in level flight is forward from center - that is correct. The faster the more it needs to be trimmed forward (down).