TTry the reset trim button in game. If you are launching on an air start especially the mission can have predefined trim point.
WAlso In game
ctrl-enter display shows the trim diamond of where the stick should be trimmed
RThe control appear to be reflecting the stick position, which means the way forward virtual center is letting aircraft going into steep dive. I have to either holding the stick fighting against the spring, or keep pressing the trim release, for the level flight. The update seems to be done, I'm trying again...
RI see the control diamond, but I don't see the trim center diamond. There should be both isn't it?
RI'm trying other helicopters...
TIn Ctrl+Enter at least on the hind, I only see one diamond and it matches the virtual (dcs commanded) center.
TIn the Mi-24. As I move the stick, the diamond moves. When I press and release trim button the diamond stays and stick stays in that position.
TMake sure you don’t have any curves or saturation applied in DCS also.
RThanks, no curves not saturations are applied. I see the trim button on the Mi-24 and Ks-50III are getting registered(As I see the button in game are being pressed), but actual trim release is not happening. Something must have got messed up. I'm checking the controls now and may be running integrity check.
RI cleared trim release button assignment and re-opened the control dialog, then assigned the button back on. The trim release button is not sounding on the Mi-24. Running the integrity check but I've ran out of time for today. Thank you Walmis and TheAmasinGreat, I'll come back tomorow!
RGood evening, the dcs integrity check has passed. Windows SFC didn't find any issue for integrity neither. I was able to bring the joystick virtual center back to center, by using hardware trim, and I disabled the hardware trim then launched the dcs, the virtual center stays at center of the grid and never moves. I found that the Center value for the joystick stays at 0 all the time, while Coefficient changes from 4055 to 41, upon pressing the trim release in dcs. The center value for the Pedal is showing position value and changes as I move the rudder, so I assume the joystick value is somehow not getting to the application, despite I can move in-game joystick by moving the physical joystick. I see the issue is the same across multiple helicopters I tried, Mi-8, Mi-24, Ka-50III and AH-64. I double checked the vjoy is disabled and restarted and checked again. I'm trying to see where the problem is. May be the dcs is not generating some part of FFB command. I checked the dcs.log again, so far I don't see any errors regarding the FFB. I flew Yak-52 and F-4E, the dcs generated effect doesn't seem to be applying to the joystick. Any ideas where to check?
WCan you show your configuration?
Wnotably the effects tab
RHello Walmis, here it is, thanks,
WCan you try testing with pedals disconnected?
RGot it, working on it now...
RI disconnected the pedal, launched the dcs and hopped on Mi-8, it's still doing the same, letting the trim release button go and stick goes back to center instead of staying where it's left.
WHere's how it should work
WTrimmer should be set to instant trim
WFFB enabled
RAh, I see the center value behaving the same as the pedal. I'll check the special tab in the dcs again...
RStick trimmer sat to the Instant Trim, I tried to change to something else, and re-changed it back but so far no joy. I confirmed the Force Feedback is being checked. I unchecked and restarted the dcs, then check back on and restarted, still not working.
RThanks! testing it now!
RI hit banner and opened properties, pressed 'Play' button, "ID:5 Spring (100%)" shows up on Loaded effects: pane, however, dragging the slider doesn't move the pointer on the grid.
RTried on both Spring Axis 0 and Spring Axis 1.
RThe "ID:5 Spring(100%)" grays out shortly after I stopped moving the slider.
ROh, I see some errors,
WOh interesting, what is your usb setup ?
Rusb setup? like other devices connected?
WLike the topology - HUB, direct connection, USB PCIe card or MoBo direct etc 
RI have at least one HUB(By Sabrent) in between the Joystick and computer. I'm checking the cable nest behind the monitor now...
WYou can try a direct connection to the computer, see if it helps
RI'm kinda in fear of it solves the issue since you saved me in same exact way last time...it would be embarrassing I haven't try it before I ask...working on it now...
ROh it's following my dragging the slider now, I'm so glad and feel dumb same time. Launching the dcs now to see...
KWhat is fedit.exe good for?
RThe FFB is back on the dcs now, I plugged the pedal back on. Now both the VP-FFB boards are directly plugged into the computer, not via USB HUB. Thank you again Walmis, I'll forcus on USB moving forward. I really appreciate!!!
WTesting, mostly
NUh... I get this from the que bot this morning:
Nis that a minus or a ~?
Pit's approx 36 days
RHello, the axis on my unit do not appear to be reading. VP force sees that the USB in connected but no axis. Same goes with the webpage that pops up when you plug in the base. Does read any axis movement.
For background, I’m plugged directly into a known working USB on my computer.
Additionally, the female barrel power port on my unit has come untethered to the base. Not a very great design.
Any help appreciated.
For background, I’m plugged directly into a known working USB on my computer.
Additionally, the female barrel power port on my unit has come untethered to the base. Not a very great design.
Any help appreciated.
FI think both issues are related. Can you take a picture of the configurator screen and of the female barrel power port? My guess is that there's no power to the motors due to the power port issue.
CPutting this here for others with same issue. Had a problem with my beloved Rhino yesterday. It stopped reading the axes or moving. The potentiometer would still work. After a little bit of troubleshooting, I realized that the emergency stop knob seemed loose in its housing. After searching in vain for a YT video of someone taking apart one of these beasts, I gave up and started removing screws. I started on the top, which was.. wrong. Eventually I moved to the back side. After pulling away the side I discovered the knob had loosened enough to twist a little every time I turned it back on. The two wires twisted around each other until eventually one pulled free of its terminal connector. Repair would have been simple if I'd had the same terminal connector. Instead, after trying forever to uncrimp it, I just gave up, removed the wire, soldered it to the connector and reinstalled. I did my best to tighten the emergency stop knob back up, but it's hard to get a good grip on it, and I could see having to do this again in the future.
CVisual aid:
CI was tempted to try and fab away to keep the nut from rotating, but I couldn't bear the thought of drilling into my precious. Oh, and if anyone knows the part number or size of those terminal connectors, pass it along, so next time I don't need to solder.
WYeah so that's the symptom of no power to the unit. While USB powers the controller, there's no data from the motors. Make sure the DC plug is all the way in and e-stop switch is de-pressed.
Putting some superglue on the DC connector shell from 3 sides and inserting it back into the plastic shell will do the trick (apologies due to QC mistake) .
Putting some superglue on the DC connector shell from 3 sides and inserting it back into the plastic shell will do the trick (apologies due to QC mistake) .
WThe terminal is 2.8mm / 0.5mm
RThank you for the reply. Apologies if it sounded harsh. At this point I think I’ll need a new base-side plug. Would you be willing to provide a part number for the power plug?
Mis it normal to hear and feel a loud clicking when pushing against the spring in the Rhino ?