At high speeds I just try to be gentle with it to avoid overstressing the aircraft... Although somet
At high speeds I just try to be gentle with it to avoid overstressing the aircraft... Although sometimes I do it just for fun 
NIt is all down to personal preferance as to what "effects" are felt and how they are felt. I am going for as realistic as I can get with some extra that should be felt through the Airframe but putting it through the stick as my motion rig is not active at the moment!
NFun Fact it is impossible to Over-G the wings on an F-14! The test pilots found that as G and AOA increases on the F-14 the body of the aircraft starts acting as the lifting force and takes the G loading off the wings over about 7G and put the loading on the body of the F-14 which can easily take the extra load but did cause some cracking in the tail due to the angular stresses put on it which gave us the "STAPLE" that you may have seen in use on early F-14A's
FIn DCS you can only break wings with a sudden high G onset. If you do it gradually they don't break. I use a fairly high amount of dampening to avoid that from happening accidentally with the rhino.
NIn DCS if you slowly pull into a fast high G turn you will never rip the wing off it and can pull over 10G!
NGreat minds think alike lol
FHaha 
HAnd let‘s not forget that you need considerable power to pull that hard on the stick. The main reason so many people constantly rip the wings of some aircraft is that you essentially have unlimited „muscle“ power in a regular non-ffb setup.
SWhen I start calibrating from scratch, I have noticed my raw values prior calibration look like this. Y is significantly shifted down. Should I be concerned?
H„prior“ to calibration? That is irrelevant. Do the calibration and all will (most likely) be good.
HThe raw values in the middle position should be in the proximity of ~2048 though. If they are too far off, it could lead to problems when the unit is powered on with the stick not in the center.
Syeah seems calibrated fine after, it is just that it states centre values should be around 2048, but mine is like 3000 in Y axis. Stick is centered though.
HThat is the result of applying the belt in the „wrong“ position (not really wrong, just not perfect). It will most likely be no problem though,
SJust wondering if I should be concerned and open it up and rotate motor assembly or something.
HIn case it becomes a problem just reapply the belt.
HNo! No need.
Nas long as the extents are between 0 and 4096, that is all that matters. The center is irrelevant.
SGood info, thank you
Hbasically you want to avoid that the unit fires up with the raw values in the negative regime.
HBecomes more of a problem with pedals due to the bigger range of motion.
SThese can be negative? Got it.
I have had mine nearly one year now and just wondering if there's any maintenance I should do.
I have had mine nearly one year now and just wondering if there's any maintenance I should do.
HApart from re-tightening the belt? (and replacing it eventually)
HNo, not much. Check for loosened screws and such….
HI could imagine, that eventually the bearings will wear out and need replacement, but that would make itself obvious…..
SOkay, will do. Is there a list maybe what screw heads are used or trial end error, I just don't want to wear their heads with incorrect driver?
SI seen tiny ones on the smaller wheels, hidden under belt.
HDrive the bits with your fingers first and don’t use power tools. ..
HFirst of all. If you don’t experience any unwanted movement or noises, just leave it alone.
HNever touch a running system. (unless you need to grease it, which you don’t)
Hthese are the grub screws that fixate the pulley on the motor axis. Don’t mess with them unless the pulley is loose on the axis. In that case, remove the belt, unscrew them completely, use loctide and retighten them again.
SDespite fans being loud while I dogfight I didn't hear anything worrying. I had occasionally rumble but I pressed the emergency button and reduced effects and all was well after. I only use Spring on plus Damper on, and Static Force to 2-3% on X and Y to compensate for stick S curved extension and heavy metal grip.
HUse headphones! 
Most real problems, you will probably rather feel than hear. Like something being loose. Eg, if the movement from left to right or up and down isn’t continuously smooth but bumpy in the middle (loose pulley!)
Most real problems, you will probably rather feel than hear. Like something being loose. Eg, if the movement from left to right or up and down isn’t continuously smooth but bumpy in the middle (loose pulley!)S@Hiob appreciate your time to respond, really do, Yes I use overears headphones now, but must hear my children waking up so not always the option to have both over ears ^^
SLast question, what are nominal temperatures under heavy use and what temperature is alarming?
HThat really depends on the use case. You CAN bring the stick to its (thermal) knees with continuous 9G dogfighting no matter the cooling. However with normal average use it will only occasionally get to high temps (50-60) and immediately cool down again when the forces are relieved. It will settle around 40 C with normal room temps.
HIt has self protection though. If it gets too hot it will start to reduce the max amps and in result the max forces will come down.
HWith the new software option to control the fan, I would rather start the cooling early too have more wiggle room, but that is personal preference.
N@Hiob Hi just got my Rhino a month ago and love it so much I'm going to be upgrading my MFG Crosswinds to FFB with your kit. Will use Kaltokri's kit and order a motor from Walmis. Can't wait to get the full effect as FFB stick on it's own seems like it's missing something
HMake sure you specify that the motor is for use with pedals when ordering. Makes things a little easier later!
NNoted thanks!
NOh and thanks for all the hard work on this Mod especially updating it to include the V3 MFG's which is the version I have. Once i have all the parts I'll post in your #
knowledge-base post and do a Video review of it!
knowledge-base post and do a Video review of it!
Sbeen away for awhile and returned to update vpforceffb configurator to 1.0.17b2 and FFB telem to latest. also updated the rhino firmware as well. My question relates to the system settings of FFB telem. I found new launch options. I set 'enable auto launch as well as 'start with windows', 'start in system tray',and 'closing app sends to tray'. Under launch options , joystick radio button is selected and usb product id is 2055. There are no checkboxes on this line unlike the radio buttons labeled 'pedals','collective' which do have checkboxes under the columns 'autolaunch,start minimized,start headless' . When I try to save this, a dialog pops up 'Auto launching is enabled but no devices are configured for auto launch. Please enable a device...';. Is there a youtube on how to configure this and what these settings do?
Nauto launch settings only apply to how the master instance starts the additional instances. If you don't have pedals/collective, you don't need it enabled.
Sthank you. In fact I have mfg pedals and a virpil throttle. so what does telemffb do for those pieces of hardware?
HUnless they are FFB modded - nothing.
DI pulled Jet Engine Rumble down to 12 and it's perfect, thank you!
DI am fairly certain it was a combination of engine rumble being higher and having my F-4 profile set to "helicopter" ....If I can guess how that happened, I jump between fixed wing and helos in Heatblur's cold war server fairly regularly, and so I must have inadvertently switched the F-4's profile over to helo when I though I was tinkering with UH-1 settings.
Wit was same on all liveries i had
i reverted back to B82 and the behavior is gone
Thanks @Number481 for your input as well!
i reverted back to B82 and the behavior is gone
Thanks @Number481 for your input as well!
VI have the same issue which started with updating to the new Firmware (17b4), not related to DCS for me (I am running IL2). My only success so far has been to uncheck Friction in the Settings tab. I have tried some other suggested tuning without success.
S@Varibraun interesting, I'm having no issues with IL2, I run friction at 100% in the telemffb along with dampener and inertia. Everything worked great until I updated telemffb which then required configurator to be updated which then prompted me to update firmware. I've seen other posts about friction issues with the new firmware, but no concrete solutions.