Optimize the realism and comfort of your piloting sessions with a configuration of the joystick in the central position. With AVA Offset Adapter, you can adjust the orientation of the joystick on the AVA base to 15Β° or 30Β°, providing more realistic immersion and comfort. Don't waste time making a...
I just got an AVA adapter as well.. still trying to figure the best way to cut off that extra pin. not much space to get in there. I thought about trying to just pull it out, but that sounds like a recipe for a bigger problem.
Haha what morons.. the main thing keeping them relevant in the face of other companies advancements is the fact their setup defined the standard, now they're breaking away from it lol
my solution at the moment instead of the ava is to use a short extension from virpil. I took the screws out of the female bracket on the rhino and there was enough slack in the cable to bring that up through the extension and plug it directly into the stick. this allows me to loosen the stick and tighten it at the 40 degree angle I was looking for (F18 grip)
β Available in 50mm/75mm/100mm β Increased Precision and Smoother Handling β Β Allows for Offset Grip Rotation - Perfect for Center Mounted Setups β Β Includes Cable Extensions β Metal Construction
from Virpil: "Note: As the 50mm extension includes a solid connector it is not suitable for use with the TM Warthog base + TM Warthog grip combination."
This is why I pulled the rhino cable through the extension. It would also work if you fashioned a short enough extension cable instead of pulling the existing one through.
Iβm betting they are trying to go different to get people locked into their ecosystem. Not very smart IMO but honestly 6 pin mini din would be welcomed by me because itβs the same as PS/2 which are a dime a dozen.
one other note is that the amount of available slack in that existing cable will be dependent on the throw of your stick base. Mine is 15 degrees in each direction and seems fine.
That was my thought.. like adding a ministick or anaog brake or something but still going to diminish what's left of their market share since keeping that standard was basically the last thing keeping them relevant
That's a great idea. Since I wanted to use the 5cm extension I asked virpil to send me their 7.5cm cable with it and I was able to fit it in the 5cm tube. All that trouble and now I'm actually using the 7.5cm tube with its own cable haha.
My plan is just to remove the two screws on either end (four screws total) and remove the electrical connection inside the adapter - that should work for me since I am using a VKB with black box
Well, I was able to remove the electrical connection and the pins on either side but now thereβs no way to tighten it enough to where it doesnβt slop back-and-forth so this part was a complete waste of money
@walmis Hardware Trim behavior: Hey Walmis, I noticed that after the latest Firmware update, a trimmed position will be reset to the neutral point when a) the trim option is disabled or b) a profile without trim enabled is loaded. Which is an improvement and I assume is intentional. However - when you then enable the trim feature again OR load a profile with trim enabled, it will instantly return to the last trimmed position. I don't know if that is intentional, but I don't think, that is desirable behavior. I think once reset, the trim position should stay neutral until intentionally trimmed again. (also that suggests, that the trimmed position stay stored somewhere in the firmware even if a different config is loaded - which could cause unforeseen trouble I guess?!)
Imagine flying a helicopter and being in some weird trimmed position and than crashing, flying fixed wing aftre that and then hop in a different helicopter again, being totally surprised by a weirdly trimmed cyclic.
@walmis wait you actually added the #41 and #42 virtual buttons on the WinWing F-16EX grip already? :hkYAY: couldnt find any mention in the firmware changelog and i was about to write a reminder but checked if you stealthadded them and turns out you did thx
Hi all Iβve got the monster Rhino up and running does anyone have some baseline settings I could start with for someone playing 99% warbirds (il2 & dcs)
I am trying to get hardware force trim to work in MFS 2024 is that a known issue or only for me, hardware force trim works in helis in mfs 2020 just tested it now .
seeems like I cant get my X-axis centered? anyone have a suggestion for which settings to look for first? im flying the F-4 in DCS and itll be off to the right slightly, and trim doesnt seem to help
I would recommend to setup your own config. It's very much a matter of your personal setup (stick extension for example) and taste. From my experience you don't really need a different config for each aircraft. Just one default per class (Warbirds, Jets, Helicopters).
I would recommend to start by activating "spring", "inertia", "friction" and "damping" in the effects tab and set all to 100%.
Then in the Settings tab, put Master Gain to 100%, Periodic Effects to 50%, Constant Force to 100%.
Then put "Spring" to 0% and start playing with Inertia, Damping and Friction until the Stick feels "right" to you (giving some feeling of hydraulics/cables/pulley some friction and inertia etc.) That part is really a matter of taste.
When this is all dialed in, increase Spring until you find a level of force that you like.
Et Voila - your first "base" config is done. You con build upon and fine tune from here
if I'm ordering a throw limiter and want asymmetric pitch limits, but do not know exactly which way I want to orient the base yet, is it easy to swap that around?
No they only go one way so youβd need to decide how your going to orient the rhino. There is a fwd and back side. Iβm using 9 degree fore aft and 7drgree side to side. I have a very long extension so it needed tighter limiting. My throw on the grip is about 9β fore aft and 7β side side.
Been loving my Rhino for a long time now, but I have to say, low level racing with it in MS2024 is a total blast. With it alongside my DOFR H3, felt like a real workout cranking into high g turns today. Absolutely LOVE IT.
We should consider putting this concise and useful set of instructions into the faq as this one comes up often. I'd only add that if your Rhino has got one pot, start by putting master gain on it. If there are two of them, put spring on the #2. These two may not be what you will have later, but it's what you want to adjust in flight when you are still learning.
Well, it is only one way to do it. Iβm not claiming it is THE way to do it. It leaves a lot of the advanced options (balancing the grip e.g.) out. Itβs just a starting point I found make sense. Happy when it helped though!
Probably what I hope is a stupid question - does anyone know if on the stock Rhino anything is 'mounted' to the base plate? I need to solve a mounting issue and I'm trying to figure out my best steps forward.
Yeah, my thought, well 1 of like 8 thoughts was to mount the base plate to the rig, then re-attach the rhino to the base plate. My intention would be to countersink them so they wouldn't be any higher than the regular plate. the other Idea was to maybe do threaded inserts or tnuts, but I think it's a little too thin for those. Anyway, thanks for the clarification.
Your guess is pretty spot on. It adapts the VKB connector to the cable the black box needs, and has internal threads on the bottom to attach to M36x2(If I remember correctly) metric threads.