How strong should cyclic control stick forces be set in the AH-64D and Huey to best simulate RL?
How strong should cyclic control stick forces be set in the AH-64D and Huey to best simulate RL?
FI mean I am pretty sure you don't really have any forces in the stick of at least the Apache. So basically just the force trim and maybe a slight rumble
KHi folks! Been on the list now for a while and am curious about the product. I currently use a VKB gunfighter base with a MCG-U stick, using a 100/200mm extension depending on the plane. Has anyone here made the jump from my setup over to the Rhino FFB?
KFrom what I understand, you can adjust the feedback pretty easily between different airframes. How much of a hassle is it to switch between different profiles? Let’s say I like flying 200mm on warbirds but then switch to 100mm for a jet, and a different profile for helos. Is this all doable?
KFinally, what software controls the grip config? Would I still use VKB’s software for the grip itself, and Rhino for the base?
KOh, also, does anyone here desk-mount their base? Is that doable?
FI believe you can configure the program to load different profiles based on the aircraft, so the only "hassle" would be to switch the extensions. This isn't that bad, as the vkb adapter has an external wire so you only have to swap the physical connection. You are also correct that you keep the vkb software for the grip.
FLastly, there have been a few that desk mounted, but they made a slight modification to support the mount from the floor as well. You can find some examples here, use the discord search to make it easier.
KNice, thanks!
Bshould have some transitional flutter between flight and hover, handy way to tell where you are in the transition or if you are getting slow without having to constantly stare at the speed indicator.
SThe question is whether the cyclic stick movement on either axis requires more that fingertip pressure.
FOh, gotcha
RUh none..?
RWell idk about Huey but Apache yeah, none. I've literally moved the stick with my pinky before
RAll the actual stick action is a short few linkages that go to the servos. Very short travel distance (well for the pilot at least) but the front and back seat are obviously linked.
Anyways yeah, not really anything
Anyways yeah, not really anything
RReally the only force your feeling is going to be from the trim magnet. That, idk. But enough to hold the stick in place during some decent shaking or vibration so probably fairly strong
MHey all, I already got my Rhino awhile back but just now making my mount and cockpit for all my gear to actually implement it. I was eyeing the winwing viper stick that is modelled of the F-16V sticks. I've deduced WinWing requires an adapter for the Rhino but not really able to tell what exactly it is? I don't own any Winwing products currently. Just wondering if it is something proprietary or if I can find two plugs and run wires to make it real quick.
MNever flew an apache but generally they hold roughly in place hydraulically with very little 'slop' with a stick trim system being on. Most of my flying (S-58Ts) with similar systems is with the stick trim off, where you're not really going to feel anything through the stick. *The collective however.... �� *
SI'm trying to make sense of this post on the DCS Forum. Is this "high 30's" force referring to force generated by the magnets and is it always on? That would seem to conflict with "pinky" level force to intentionally move the stick.
FI presume the 30kg is with trim. For the pinky feel people are talking with trim disabled, in other words holding down the trim button
RThe only force he could be talking about is that magnet. Or the force needed to roll the ARDDs which then converts the 64 to using BUCS. But DCS doesn't model that because that'd be a force related thing
RThere is no natural resistance to the stick when the force trim is interrupted. Pinky pressure
RHell i only needed pinky pressure on an even shorter lever than than the stick itself. I was reaching over to the servos and using my finger to move a ~4in arm. Control side there's almost no resistance or effort really needed to move through controls. If there is, that's a problem (and why BUCS exists). All the heavy lifting is through servocylinders and the 3000psi behind them to move the rotorhead
BMy first car was a volvo 240 1981, no power steering and 10° slop in the wheel (can't really believe it was road worthy, but it was)
Dear God I love power steering. And cruise control.
Dear God I love power steering. And cruise control.
RMy Kia Soul doesn't even have cruise control
ROr remote start. Remote unlock. Fog lights. Bass speakers. Or automatic xmsn
RBut I get 32mpg so 
Fremote start and cruise control is something for the "too expensive" car class
BYeah, not sure I see the point of remote start.
Don't really see a reason to start the car unless I'm in it.
But cruise control, is a huge QOL improvement.
Only time I'm not using it is roundabouts, near speedbumps and bumper traffic.
And it's part of the basic package for my little vw up.
Don't really see a reason to start the car unless I'm in it.
But cruise control, is a huge QOL improvement.
Only time I'm not using it is roundabouts, near speedbumps and bumper traffic.
And it's part of the basic package for my little vw up.
VStart the car up early during the winter/colder times so it heats up a bit before getting in it?
BThat's why you have electric engine block heaters on a timer, or secondary heater on the diesel line.
Besides haven't really had much issues starting fuel injected cars unless it gets below -25c.
My brother in laws volvo had one of those APU style engine/cabin heaters, sure nice to get it warmed up.
But as it is a volvo there was a glitch in the fuel gauge, so as soon as temps hit -8c the car thought it had no diesel and refused to start it, so you had to start the main engine anyway.
And honestly that's basically when you started needing it in the first place.
Besides haven't really had much issues starting fuel injected cars unless it gets below -25c.
My brother in laws volvo had one of those APU style engine/cabin heaters, sure nice to get it warmed up.
But as it is a volvo there was a glitch in the fuel gauge, so as soon as temps hit -8c the car thought it had no diesel and refused to start it, so you had to start the main engine anyway.
And honestly that's basically when you started needing it in the first place.
RRemote start is too preheat the car
RWas at my aunt/uncles yesterday for Christmas and my mom remote starts her car
RI walk outside, get in, clutch, start, come back inside. "That's how I remote start mine"
BAye, I remember being my dad's automatic ice scraper as well 
SSo "pinky" pressure while holding down the trim button I understand. When hand on stick to adjust pitch or trim without touching the trim button tough, the normal situation, could a 30's Nm max force be needed or even possible? I'm assuming that there must be enough built-in resistance to prevent unintended motion.
FIt is definitely not neccesary, or possible with the rhino. Its not 30Nm though, its 30Kg at 300mm, or ~90Nm
Fbut thats for the real life AH-64, while I find my ~5kg quite hard to move
SOf course those high force levels are not possible for Rhino or ffBeast. So my takeaway then is that, when the trim button is not being depressed, any spring stiffness that does not create a motor overheat situation or impede aircraft controlability is reasonable(?)
Fguess so
FPersonally I make it possible to move a little bit, as the low force from deactivating trim makes hovering quite hard
RWalmis- Thank you and everyone at VP Force for this wonderful gear. I received my base about two months ago, but it was a Christmas present so I have only gotten to mess with it for parts of two days now. WOW, I am absolutely impressed with not only the hardware, but also the FFB Configurator and TeleFFB both up and functioning without issue. Don't get me wrong I am sure that I will be changing things as I get to know FFB better, but this experience has been fantastic. I have been flying mostly rotors lately and this has been a HUGE switch in control, to the better. I am sure I am not the only one that wishes I could have skipped all the other joystick bases on my journey to this piece of art. It just works! Beautifully. Thanks again! I am now waiting on my FLNKR grip that is to be paired with it.
RIf you got the TM Warthog grip it would recognize natively. They are the same grip layout (A10/F16). I am actually using my old TM Cougar grip until my FLNKR arrives.
MI know the Rhino supports the TM gear, but am looking to see what the adapter is that I need to make the Rhino work with the WinWing stick as a possible upgrade. WinWing's TM adapter is sold out on their site and looks like it won't be coming back from what I could see, but IDK if that's the one needed to work with the Rhino.
RVPForce sells a WinWing adapter
RThis is what I do as well. If I'm trimming to go into a hover, the hover mode frequently wants to wig out and increase its oscillation until it turns off and get a SAS saturated message. So now when I trim for a hover, I keep putting some input in to manually dampen the oscillation so it stabilizes
Hhow well does it work in the apache?
Halso I have a vkb, where would I find an adapter for that stick?
Hsupposedly Im #1038 and hopefully will be getting mine in the next month or so, so getting stoked myself
Hordered in august
BWhen will the new software be released as stable?