TThat’s awesome of you 
WGot a reply from Virpil: ".... Considering current production capacity and your order's queue position, we estimate that your order will be fully allocated between end of January to early February"
So it looks like I'll get it soon enough and there's probably no need to rush this
So it looks like I'll get it soon enough and there's probably no need to rush this
WNot all of them, some I was able to implement by gathering some data remotely from users
AOh, not quite that bad then
AStill though, couldn’t virpil, vkb, etc provide that data to you?
WStill even if I have the data I'll need to test it anyway
FI guess we can wait 2-3 weeks then! 
if they would have said March ai definitely would have sent you mine. Lol
if they would have said March ai definitely would have sent you mine. Lol
V:package: 
RHINO #0863 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0863 Has Shipped!V:package: 
RHINO #0864 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0864 Has Shipped!V:package: 
RHINO #0865 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0865 Has Shipped!TI’ve been reading a lot of reviews and seeing people experience the odd overheating issue and the loss of power while the motors cool themselves down.
Is there currently a fix in the works for this or is it something that will just have to deal with?
Is there currently a fix in the works for this or is it something that will just have to deal with?
V:package: RHINO #0866 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0866 Has Shipped!WIt's not overheating per se, just thermal limiting since any motor working at max current will dissipate a lot of heat. Thermal limiting is very gradual. But if prolonged dogfights is your game you might consider building a super Rhino(with the big motors) or FFBeast.
FYou could also decrease the output forces to help with that, or not?
TWould fitting 2 140mm pc case fans in a push pull config with a mesh grill on both sides have any noticeable benefit?
TThank you for replying I appreciate it.
FSimple question.... I have a Moza AB9 FFB base. It was a gift....
I am now looking to DIY my TM TPR into FFB.... can those 2 live on the same PC?
I am now looking to DIY my TM TPR into FFB.... can those 2 live on the same PC?
WYeah, I don't see why not
FVPForce has no entry in the export.lua?
Yhttps://discord.com/channels/965234441511383080/972180323787997255/1329938118383767694 I added some cooling fins and an additional fan. It can sustain dogfight almost all the time
TThank you Yuchen, that’s great to know.
I just want to make the right decision as I’ve never had a ffb stick before and just don’t want anything that takes away from the experience of it.
I just want to make the right decision as I’ve never had a ffb stick before and just don’t want anything that takes away from the experience of it.
FI don't have any overheating issues but I don't fly warbirds and don't do long sessions of just dogfighting
TThank you for your message, it’s good to know that.
WIt does, but it plays nice with others
RLmao
RRealized I needed to turn down my VRS intensity when the Rhino shook my stick in my hand so violently that it unscrewed itself and rotated in my hand
LFor those with diy sticks, what design did you use? Im looking at jflyer81s f16 grip..
WWhat's the current turnaround times for the steel mounting plate from order to dispatch?
WSame or next day
AI'm still confused about how the DIY kit works and what I need to integrate it into my pedals and stick. On the connection diagram in the showcase channel there are two potentiometers marked as "optional". I can see that the motor driver boards are integrated in the back of the motors. I guess there's also some sort of encoder. But where does the position feedback come from? Other FFB builds use potis at the output shaft. If theese are not required and there's a gear between the motor and the gimbal then the encoder has to be a multi-turn absolute type which I doubt...
BThe Motor itself has positional sensor feed built into it.
ASo it's a multi-turn encoder? Or is a homing/centering procedure required each time after I switch it on?
WMost use cases for the DIY kit operate within a single revolution of the motor, so homing is not required if the motor starts with a "centered" calibration. While the motors support multi-turn configurations, they need to be centered at startup to establish the "central" revolution for proper operation.
The potentiometers shown in the diagram are multi-functional and can be used for tasks like adjusting spring gain or other settings.
The potentiometers shown in the diagram are multi-functional and can be used for tasks like adjusting spring gain or other settings.
ACan the centering be automated? Verifying that the controls are free from end stop to end stop is part of the pre-startup checklist, anyway. So if I do that the controls should be ready? I think I need either the bigger motors or a gear. Timing belts would be cheapest like in the Rhino base...
WAuto centering would be a nice-to-have addition, but it's currenly on the roadmap for the future versions.
Ihey, whats the turn around of the vkb adapters from order to shipped?
T
MWalmis, so to simplify, the motor should turn only one revolution for axis sensing…….in my collective build using 57BLF motor I have a 11 tooth spur gear attached….meshing with a larger spur gear that is attached to collective stick…….it takes about a revolution and a half to go from bottomed out on collective to max collective up travel ……do I need then to design a larger diameter motor spur gear or smaller main collective spur gear to get it inside one revolution? Am I understanding this correctly?
Ta
Ta
Sthis will work, but make sure your collective down position is calibrated within 0 and 4096. then the up position can be 5000, 6000 whatever. just be sure its in its down position when powering on. (if your numbers go the other way, like higher numbers in the down position, calibrate down at around 3900 or so and then the up position can be well into the negatives.
MRighto……I think I understand……I’ll try that…..thanks
WThey're in stock, so either the same or next day usually
Monly took 96 days from reservation to getting the order finalization message!
TThat’s awesome man 
GIs it me, or is 22 degrees of throw too wide for horizontal, but 11 degrees way too short for backward throw?
Just got my rhino base today and immediately was happy I got the 11deg limiters, but with them on there it feels like especially pulling the stick towards me is barely off center. (This is a feel thing, I can see that physically it is doing the same thing in all directions, no worries there).
How do others have their throw limits set up? I'm using a WW stick with the extension at its shortest setting.
Just got my rhino base today and immediately was happy I got the 11deg limiters, but with them on there it feels like especially pulling the stick towards me is barely off center. (This is a feel thing, I can see that physically it is doing the same thing in all directions, no worries there).
How do others have their throw limits set up? I'm using a WW stick with the extension at its shortest setting.
FYou could try a software limiter first to see what angle you like, then print(have someone print) a custom limiter using the parametric design of the original limiter
FI am still using the software limiter to this day. Don't know if it is harmful to the Rhino but yeah
GYeah, I used to always yank on stuff too hard so I figured hw limits would be better
GBut then I'm not anywhere near good enough a pilot to be going to the extremes of the stick throw and not die 5 seconds later
V:package: RHINO #0871 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0871 Has Shipped!V:package: 
RHINO #0870 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0870 Has Shipped!