Is there a way to add custom grip types? I have a NS-37 grip that doesn't play well with any of the
Is there a way to add custom grip types? I have a NS-37 grip that doesn't play well with any of the preset grips.
WI'll gladly add it - could you map out the hats like in this table (you can copy it): https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1jyj5VUKgx8KYb_0rTCk0_NimaHjZFaoxHQcyMFH52UI/edit?gid=0#gid=0
Use Generic grip profile.
Does this grip have analog axis ?
Use Generic grip profile.
Does this grip have analog axis ?
Vhello guys so flying the f-5 i find on the pitch its very sensitive and i cannot pu curve as its a known issue but i wanted to ask if maybe there is a way to have more force directly from the middle zone? im pretty new to the configurattor etc
Vi just want it to be more stronger in the middle and then move from there normally
Sput some steeper points in the gain map
Vill try that thx
MHi Walmis. Thanks for the quick response!
I've copied the template and updated it for the NS-37 grip. You should have permission to view and edit. Let me know if there's any other info you'd like me to provide.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1fdNOSp6Hf8tnMT04S3-_ZkTbAwHGWQwifitOt1RJGBo/edit?usp=sharing
Yes, it does have a Z-twist axis.
I've copied the template and updated it for the NS-37 grip. You should have permission to view and edit. Let me know if there's any other info you'd like me to provide.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1fdNOSp6Hf8tnMT04S3-_ZkTbAwHGWQwifitOt1RJGBo/edit?usp=sharing
Yes, it does have a Z-twist axis.
SI do not see b12. Maybe 1.0.17b2 but no 12. Finder doesn’t see it either. And installing b2 does not help anymore. Now I am 57 and no computerwizz. I just believe in this ffb concept. It’s just harder for people like me to sorry.
S
S
STwitching is all of these
Njust update as per normal once you hit that link... it will load the b12 firmware back onto your rhino...
SWilco. Guess I shouldn’t forget the pedals…they ll have to be on the same. Thx
Sthx, but still probs. dont worry, will look at it tomorrow. thx for the help.
BWould need an old configurator as well I'd imagine.
NI switched to v.1.0.17b2 and made the loop back just like the picture, and 2 hours without problem.
N
PAnyone else running into an issue where the latest version of Rhino Loopback is not saving device still?
JFor me it saves the pot sources but not the button source
PSame
SWill try asap. Got the flue and fever. Sorry.
Rthe power cable in my rhino doesn't seat nicely - sometimes the rhino powers up and sometimes it doesn't
if i wiggle the cable or rotate it, it can fix it, or unfix it
if i wiggle the cable or rotate it, it can fix it, or unfix it
R(i received it yesterday)
Rthis is bullshit
Rnow i can't even get it to power up
WWell bummer, this definitely sounds unusual.
Maybe the PSU plug is problematic. Is the fit of the DC plug firm or loose to the Rhino ?
Make sure the emergency stop is not depressed.
Can you make a short video or take some photos of the socket and plug ?
Do you have USB connectivity with the FFB Configurator app?
Maybe the PSU plug is problematic. Is the fit of the DC plug firm or loose to the Rhino ?
Make sure the emergency stop is not depressed.
Can you make a short video or take some photos of the socket and plug ?
Do you have USB connectivity with the FFB Configurator app?
Rplug fit is firm. estop is out.
ffb config says usb connected, motors not
will take video/photos.
ffb config says usb connected, motors not
will take video/photos.
R
RPhotos and video in the album
RI suspect the wires in the lead are broken
WIf you have a similar 5.5/2.5mm barrel PSU around the house (12V to 20V) you can quickly test it to isolate the issue to the PSU.
WOr you can measure the voltage on the plug itself.
OHello, I have a question: If I set the spring to 100%, the maximum travel in y is only 50% of the possible distance. If I set the spring to 0%, the entire distance works. Why is that? see screenshots.
TYou need to add some force comp at the bottom next to your calibration values to account for flex. Hover your mouse over that area and it will explain.
OThanks, I'll try it.
VI find that Win11 Joy control panel thinks the Rhino base has a status of OK even I have powered it off. All axis and button are inoperative. And when I turn it back on again, the status is still okay and all the button and axis are normal. Earlier today I had a sudden disconnect when I was flying UH-1H and when i touched the ground briefly, the base suddenly went disconnected. Are these normal?
Hjust a quick question setting this up: for the VKB joystick, I just need the black box, correct? I dont need the base or anything else other than the stick and blackbox?
RIs this why when not using force trim release in the game the stick doesn’t travel the full deflection?
TNot sure what you mean
NYes, only black box
BUSB lead has enough juice to power the board so its like any other joystick, the electric power is for the motors. So for a total reboot after a firmware upgrade you will need to kill power and disconnect the USB.
VOh i see
TJust for information purposes you should hit the E stop. (Leave it down)
Power off both the USB port AND the Rhino power adapter/CPU.
That’s how you shut down a Rhino and now it’s fully disconnected from power.
Turn off the computer and do whatever you want.
Next time before you fire up the sim you turn it all on in the opposite direction.
So we start with the computer.
Next we turn on the USB port (and the rhino will beep as the main board gets power)
Next we turn on the Rhino CPU, which powers the actual motors.
Last we start the sim.
Now use the E stop to activate/release the Rhino.
Good to go every time but for sure make sure to power it down 100% and to cut the power to the board with a USB switch (or just unplug it).
Power off both the USB port AND the Rhino power adapter/CPU.
That’s how you shut down a Rhino and now it’s fully disconnected from power.
Turn off the computer and do whatever you want.
Next time before you fire up the sim you turn it all on in the opposite direction.
So we start with the computer.
Next we turn on the USB port (and the rhino will beep as the main board gets power)
Next we turn on the Rhino CPU, which powers the actual motors.
Last we start the sim.
Now use the E stop to activate/release the Rhino.
Good to go every time but for sure make sure to power it down 100% and to cut the power to the board with a USB switch (or just unplug it).
TI think my reply above is for you
WThis is not stock Rhino part, better post in -> #
diy-builds
diy-buildsOok
RIf you are in game. Let’s say the 58 or oh6. You push stick all the way to the left or right. The physical stick will touch the limiter of the rhino way before the in game stick. Confirmed with controls indicator. However if you hold the trim release or use beep trim the physical stick matches the ingame stick and both go the full deflection.
TWhen you are in configurator, does the blue dot show that it goes to the edge of the box in the input viewer? If not, then that is what is happening most likely.
TPosition is sensed off the rotation of the motor, not the rotation or position of the stick. Imagine if you had 0 spring (trim released) and put the motor to the left stop and then slowly turned up spring while holding the physical stick against the left stop. Any flex in the system will allow the motor to spin back toward center, but the physical stick stays on the stop. Since the motor is back toward center it tells the game that the virtual stick is back toward center though your physical stick is at the stop.
RThe blue dot does not make it to the edge when just pushing the stick under force. It only goes to the edge when holding trim release and all the forces are null or beep trim is used.
Rok makes sense, so I need to use the force comp ?