I liked the labeled switches on the orion2 bc it’s designed around the aircraft I use most and can be adapted also to other other craft but so could the cm3
@walmis I heard that the Rhino doesn't work in FFB mode with the AV8B Harrier in DCS. Do you know what the reason is that it doesn't work and what could the coders do to make it work?
Hey @Kreytfire, So the last Shipped RHINO is #0030 on 2022-12-08 Average waiting time from preorder to shipped is 85 days, median is 109 days, max is 156 days 28 Rhinos are shipped in total
yeah not a deal breaker but since they went this far to make a replica I'd hope they take this small step forward and make it even more perfect. It's just an oversight from they. That angle is definitely there in the real one for apparent ergonomics reason..
I had an Alpha, and now have a Prime. To me it has a lot more heft than the original, so I'm surprised to see such a small delta between their weights.
EDIT: There has been some discussion about the various brands of grips. Right now I have an Alpha Prime and the original TMW grip, and in the past I've had the TM F/A-18 and Alpha ones. I upgraded from the Alpha to the Alpha Prime primarily because they brag about the Prime having better switches. I can't really detect a difference, and I am somewhat disappointed in it. TM has the best switches I've used -- I almost never mistakenly push "up" on a hat when I want to push "left" -- this happens a lot with the trim hat I've assigned on the Prime. I have a real grip from some 1960s US fighter, and its switchlogy feels very similar to the TM grips'.
I also upgraded from the Virpil CM2 to the CM3 stick base, because of the clutches in the CM3. I'm not sure either upgrade was worth it (primarily b/c the clutches don't play well with the HPG H145 that I fly almost exclusively in MSFS), but then it "only" cost me about $150 to upgrade the Alpha grip and CM2 to the newer models (after selling my old setup). The Prime grip does light up real purty , but I'm considering going back to my TMW grip.
Not really, the motor itself is 131x131x191 and with the shaft + QR 131x131x270 The VRS is smal mige w/o shaft 131x131x213 and with shaft but no QR is 131x131x270 So they are basically the same size, only difference being, simucube uses the back of the motor to house the electronics and their own encoder, while the VRS still uses the industrial grade encoder and encoder enclosure and uses external connection.
They are a really interesting concept, for sure out of my price range (I currently have SC2 Pro and BJ Steel GT Pro pedals, was considering the full VRS combo though), but from a technical standpoint a really nice advancement in the sim gear. But I would wait for the DIY versions to come out. Because the pedal is basically a linear actuator with a leverage and an S-type LC element that measures the forces in both directions (Pressure (+) and extension (-)). And the rest of the effects (brakes overheating --> softer pedal feel etc) is then all gathered from the telemetry data, even ABS information from telemetry is only ON or OFF, so you have to set your own ABS frequency in the software. And based on the development I see in this Discord channel (for example Propeller3D writing his own telemetry based FFB solution for the flight sim gear) I am quite confident that in a year or so, there will be DIY projects and clones of the Simucube pedals. And based on the price of the RS MEGA + motion kit, I would expect the price of the full kit (3 pedals) to be about half the price of the Simucube pedals.
Yes, that is for sure the best price-performance option especially in the long run. I got the BJs which are kinda clones of the HE Sprints from Spain (for about 300€ less) and quite a few friends from the Slovene sim racing Discord community had them, so I had a tried and trusted reviews, that they are a safe choice, but they are not as refined out of the box as the Sprints (not all edges are completely sanded down to a dull edge). And I must say, they are a huge improvement over the Fanatec V3s I had before. And the sim3D kit is also relatively easy to make at home, if you have the 3D printer, so that will probably be my next upgrade to the rig. But have to find strong enough motors, since the ones on the V3s were too weak to be of any use (at least to me).
I have to accept that the implementation feels quite natural compared to glider aerobatics/loops, not sure what C172 does at the top of the loop with yoke forces and don't want to know ;))
Whoa, another sailplane acro pilot? My other car is a SZD-59
I've looped in many types and done wingovers in many more but the 59 is rated for all but tailslides (rudder the size of a barn door). Even with its 15m tips it's quite spritely compared to the SZD48 it's derived from, mostly owing to the enlarged ailerons, which have the highest aerodynamic load up of any (pointy) glider I've flown but it has the roll rate to show for it. In 13m mode it's only outperformed by Swift or Fox, both of which are fantastic acro ships but poor xc gliders but with 15m tips the 59 has the same polar and characteristics of the 48, a worthy tradeoff imo
Did I mistake you as a glider pilot? I thought you were referencing you know what the stick feels like at the top of a loop in one. I was talking about glider types and characteristics on that premise..
I can see how my message would be gibberish then :p
SZD-59 Acro is a Polish sailplane which is an aerobatic capable variant of another standard class (15m wing, no flaps) sailplane made for cross-country (xc) soaring called the SZD-48. Shares the same fuse/cockpit/wings but a different tail and has enlarged ailerons and the wingtips removable so can be flown as 15m (standard class) with good efficiency (40:1 glide ratio, +5.5/-3.5g's, 155kt VNE, looping and limited acro ok) or 13m for full acro flying (28:1 glide ratio +7/-5 g's, 177kt VNE, full acro aside from tailslide maneuvers because it will break the giant rudder) https://szdallstar.com/en/products/szd-59-1-acro/
Gliding/soaring rules and useful skills to have for all pilots since they're all gliders when the motor dies but yes super fun and can be very peaceful as well, though it's not without its own set of worries :p
I'm late to this discussion. Is this something that MT would make, or are you going to do it? It needs to be 4mm thick in my opinion... I just measured the MT-manufactured plate for my Virpil CM3 base and it appears to be 5mm. Even better.