Ooh, this talk gives me ideas. Otto has 2 stage pushbuttons. I have moved away from the stick trigger for guns and have been using buttons on the throttle. Like the Japanese did. I have been missing the 2 stage though...
Walmis has managed to turn a rather complicated affair into astonishing simplicity with hardware centered on practical choices. Nothing short of amazing.. making gimbals are the easy/fun part.
Also if it's up to me I'd keep both the intro and the "getting started" -thing very simple and to the point, basically a short intro + spec sheet in the introduction and whatever you need to do to get the thing connected and powered up and the software running in the getting started part
I setup endstops for F18c and it functions pretty well, tho I might setup some dampening at the ends also to reduce oscillation / bounce from endstops. Anyone have experience with setting them both up? Also whats the best way to calibrate with end stops
I set my end stops at 50% and I get pretty bad oscillation. I always have to remember to hit the estop button when I leave the pit because it's possible for the stick, if it gets bumped slightly, to start an uncontrolled self destruct sequence
I thought it was weird that the oscillating occurred even with endstop power set to 0. I thought it was the endstop power pushing the stick back to center that was the cause of the feedback loop but I guess not
i believe you can go past 360 without issue, its just that you have to be in the center when you power it up. the encoder goes from 0 to 4096, but will happily read values like -1000 to 5000 if you go beyond. If you power it up with the stick at -1000, it will think its at 3096.
the way non-direct drive wheels solve this is they do a "motion range" spin on power up to recenter itself. Doing this with a stick sounds like playing wackfuck every time you power it up
Don't know if it's even possible & I'm sure if it is it'd be a lot of extra work, but what about a clutch system so the motors could do the start up calibration without moving the stick?
Hey @walmis I was wondering about third party grips. Do you think it would be possible to add grips like Komodo EC145 or OE-XAM grips to this base? Or would it require additional soldering perhaps? I can't seem to find any helicopter grips that would fit the Rhino
I really like the fact that I can get a much more accurate feel of cable, push-rod or hydraulic control systems, on top of that rotary, no having to swap cam's just one of the things that make the Rhino so good. On this profile I have around 3kg damping force dialed in.
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Nice! Would love to know how to make custom grips for the Rhino though. A gamechanger if possible without the need for soldering skills etc. Is there a guide for doing custom grips for the Rhino?