Hey @walmis how do you put in the code the trim feature for harrier ? And how do I use the trim with
Hey @walmis how do you put in the code the trim feature for harrier ? And how do I use the trim with msfs?
N@.durham - Were you able to resolve this? Having more or less the same issue with my Alpha + 200cm extension. If the trigger flip lever is forward (button 1 should be activated), button 1 shows solid lit in configurator but one of the hat switch indicators is continuously flashing, if the lever is retracted (button 2 should be activated), Button 1 flashes continuously. I also seem to be getting a lot of crosstalk or something on the hat switches. Some hat presses seem to control a directional push on a different hat, or a button press in stead of a hat press.. all very strange.
All seems to work just fine without the extension. (note I've been using this extension with my CM2 and then CM3 bases for over a year with no issues.
All seems to work just fine without the extension. (note I've been using this extension with my CM2 and then CM3 bases for over a year with no issues.
WThat's very strange. I have tested my Alpha with a 2 meter cable, all works normally. Maybe Virpil has different hardware revisions inside the grip which is more sensitive to cross talk.
One hardware mod to try would be to add a 100 or 330ohm resistor on the SPI data line in series.
Otherwise I'd be happy to help diagnose this via remote desktop, maybe a firmware based fix would be possible.
One hardware mod to try would be to add a 100 or 330ohm resistor on the SPI data line in series.
Otherwise I'd be happy to help diagnose this via remote desktop, maybe a firmware based fix would be possible.
WThe current wip development branch is a bit unfinished for general usage at the moment, still a lot to do for MSFS support.
T@Number481 - I got button 1 to stable red after taking the extension apart and putting duct tape on the exposed wires at the top of the join of the two cables that make up the connection inside the extension. I could not find what button 1 actually did, so renamed it button 0 to stop it dominating the DCS controls setup and off I went. I did try my VPC F-14 (V.F.X.) grip and got lots of red buttons and some flickering, so just went back to the VPC Mongoose T-50CM2 that I use for the Apache. The issue was definitely the extension as the behaviour was different and better when just screwing the grip onto the Rhino mount and even when using the straight tubular extensions. I have another 200mm extension on order to see if that behaves any differently.
TIt seems to be something to do with how much you have to compress the cable inside the extension which is necessary for pulling out the male connector at the bottom so you can get your fingers in to plug it on, and then it smoothly goes back inside as you screw down the bottom of the extension - ie I also got much better behaviour with the extension in pieces and using the cable with no kinks, bends or other compression.
NYeah, I just took mine apart to see whats what.. uncoiling the cable from inside the extension doesn't seem to help my case. FYI, button 1 is (should be) always active if the flip trigger is forward, button 2 is always active if the flip trigger is pulled back (at least on the Alpha).
NIs that one of the data lines on the extension connector? I don't have any resistors lying around but could probably have some by tomorrow. It's actually the Alpha Prime, but I think thats mostly just RGB and construction differences to the original Alpha.
WI'll send you some pinout diagrams tomorrow morning once I get back to work 
FAnd for harrier trim?
THave you got the straight extensions?
TWith the one piece cable?
Nno, its the offset extension.
Ntook it apart, removed the shrink wrap.. reseated the connector joining the two halves of the cable.. issue persists.
TAnd that is even when the cable is straightened out?
TI have the offset extension, which is the one that gave me the issues - the cable in the picture above played nice.
NYeah I assume it has something to do with the way they’ve connected the two halves together causing crosstalk of some sort.
N
N@walmis would you suggest trying to directly solder the two halves together and remove the connectors?
TThat was my conclusion - and when you cram it all together the potential for crosstalk increases
NWell, I cut the connectors out and direct soldered the cable.. problem is (mostly) gone.. I do still see occasional flash of button 1 in configurator so I assume there's still some crosstalk going on. Well.. spoke too soon. shoved it all back inside the tube and the crosstalk is back :/
N
HMaybe using coax cables would work?
N@walmis after failing to fix the issue by removing the connectors and directly soldering the wires, but noticing that when it wasn't coiled inside the tube the issue was lessened or non existent, I cut about 12cm out of the cable and soldered it back up so that it wasn't so coiled up when pushed back into the extension tube. Seems to be working so far...
N
JSorry, where'd you get that switch hat on the top right??
Ndesigned and 3d printed it because I needed a china hat
JColor me impressed and jealous.
Nyou're welcome to the file
JI’d love that! Do you just pop it off?
Nyeah, the default ones are just pressure fit on a metal spline (this is the alpha prime, I assume the alpha is similar). Takes a bit of force to get them off. I moved the one that's on the upper right by default to the lower left and then put the printed china hat in the upper right
NDM'd
JThanks!
JRhino owners! Looking to get 1 or more throw limiters with my Rhino, and I'm a complete novice when it comes to this sort of thing and have no clue what throw angles I should be considering. What is everyone's experience with throw limiters an what sizes have been good for you all? Any specific modules you use the limiter for?
VBest to get a protractor out, put it where the base goes and eyeball the obstructions in your pit. Half throw is about 10.5 degrees and that's what im rocking due to an extension since I bolt the base to the bottom of my simpit
V
JYeah not a bad call. I'm trying to figure it out before I get the base as part of the order form which does slightly complicate things 
So you would say the specs saying 44 degrees on both x and y is 22x and 22y not 44x and 44y?
So you would say the specs saying 44 degrees on both x and y is 22x and 22y not 44x and 44y?
VYes 21 or 22
VYou'll probably need a few throw limiters to get close to what you want if you're going in blind. If you have a really long extension like 200mm, consider taking a drastic amount off like I did. If it's a lot shorter then maybe only 75-80%
JOk I was able to determine I will want a 200mm extension. So I think I will get a 50% limiter. I'll also get a 75% limiter should I want to change to 100mm.
Dthat's exactly how I have mine mounted
D
VThat sounds like a good starting point, if the throw isn't enough for your personal preference with the 50% try the 75% and if that's too much get another one later somewhere in the middle
ZApologies for my ignorance but trying to understand the subject, the throw limiter will restrict the arc length movement of the stick to avoid hitting other objects during usage, the standard angle per axis (angular displacement) without limiter is 44 degrees give or take, with a 200mm extension (close to radius value since some distance from pivot is not accounted by the extension), you limit this 44 to 22 degrees give or take and with a 100mm extension you could "assume" roughly 33 degrees. The Rhino then will be calibrated to whichever max allowed throw is at its max value and will operate accordingly. Questions, is my statement accurate? Is the Rhino adjustment linear or follows other function like logarithmic or exponential or else? Thank you.
AWhen you calibrate the rhino you basically tell the firmware it the minimum and maximum distance of physical travel for each axis, so then it maps that to what it reports to windows/games as -100% to 100%, (technically it’s reported as an integer value, like -4986 to 4986 I think?) but yeah linear travel along those value ranges, no curves are anything are added if you limit the throw
P@walmis Hey m8, I've got replacement grub screws but one of the ones in the gear won't come out, their way too shallow. I'm going to try & superglue the alan key to the top of the grub screw, if that doesn't work what am I supposed to do?
WI usually use a hex screwdriver so I can get a good pressure on the screw to get it out, the L shaped allen key might be difficult to use
Wa dab of wd40 might help also
Walso you might try tightening the other one with a new grub screw, might be enough
PYeah I'll try this, cheers m8
Pok that's fixed it, but I'm keen to get the other one out, in fact I'm going to replace the ones on the other motor too