Sorry, where'd you get that switch hat on the top right??
Sorry, where'd you get that switch hat on the top right??
Ndesigned and 3d printed it because I needed a china hat 
JColor me impressed and jealous.
Nyou're welcome to the file
JI’d love that! Do you just pop it off?
Nyeah, the default ones are just pressure fit on a metal spline (this is the alpha prime, I assume the alpha is similar). Takes a bit of force to get them off. I moved the one that's on the upper right by default to the lower left and then put the printed china hat in the upper right
NDM'd
JThanks!
JRhino owners! Looking to get 1 or more throw limiters with my Rhino, and I'm a complete novice when it comes to this sort of thing and have no clue what throw angles I should be considering. What is everyone's experience with throw limiters an what sizes have been good for you all? Any specific modules you use the limiter for?
VBest to get a protractor out, put it where the base goes and eyeball the obstructions in your pit. Half throw is about 10.5 degrees and that's what im rocking due to an extension since I bolt the base to the bottom of my simpit
V
JYeah not a bad call. I'm trying to figure it out before I get the base as part of the order form which does slightly complicate things 
So you would say the specs saying 44 degrees on both x and y is 22x and 22y not 44x and 44y?
So you would say the specs saying 44 degrees on both x and y is 22x and 22y not 44x and 44y?
VYes 21 or 22
VYou'll probably need a few throw limiters to get close to what you want if you're going in blind. If you have a really long extension like 200mm, consider taking a drastic amount off like I did. If it's a lot shorter then maybe only 75-80%
JOk I was able to determine I will want a 200mm extension. So I think I will get a 50% limiter. I'll also get a 75% limiter should I want to change to 100mm.
Dthat's exactly how I have mine mounted
D
VThat sounds like a good starting point, if the throw isn't enough for your personal preference with the 50% try the 75% and if that's too much get another one later somewhere in the middle
ZApologies for my ignorance but trying to understand the subject, the throw limiter will restrict the arc length movement of the stick to avoid hitting other objects during usage, the standard angle per axis (angular displacement) without limiter is 44 degrees give or take, with a 200mm extension (close to radius value since some distance from pivot is not accounted by the extension), you limit this 44 to 22 degrees give or take and with a 100mm extension you could "assume" roughly 33 degrees. The Rhino then will be calibrated to whichever max allowed throw is at its max value and will operate accordingly. Questions, is my statement accurate? Is the Rhino adjustment linear or follows other function like logarithmic or exponential or else? Thank you.
AWhen you calibrate the rhino you basically tell the firmware it the minimum and maximum distance of physical travel for each axis, so then it maps that to what it reports to windows/games as -100% to 100%, (technically it’s reported as an integer value, like -4986 to 4986 I think?) but yeah linear travel along those value ranges, no curves are anything are added if you limit the throw
P@walmis Hey m8, I've got replacement grub screws but one of the ones in the gear won't come out, their way too shallow. I'm going to try & superglue the alan key to the top of the grub screw, if that doesn't work what am I supposed to do?
WI usually use a hex screwdriver so I can get a good pressure on the screw to get it out, the L shaped allen key might be difficult to use
Wa dab of wd40 might help also
Walso you might try tightening the other one with a new grub screw, might be enough
PYeah I'll try this, cheers m8
Pok that's fixed it, but I'm keen to get the other one out, in fact I'm going to replace the ones on the other motor too
ZThanks
LWith a 200 mm extension and no hole in my seat 18° back and 12° forward works for me. Many fighters have more throw backward than forward. I can reach my front panel switches and knobs without any trouble and the stick is not hitting anything. This is important b/c I only fly in VR. Remember to limit sideways movement too. I'm hitting my own feet at ½ throw when there's zero pitch so maybe try that value. Edit: my Rhino is mounted at 98 mm height (it's on two pieces of 2x4 sideways) and I'm sitting at 460 mm. Grip is MCGU.
Pictures: 📃general
Pictures: 📃general
JI requested 50% on both x and y axis, and a 75% on both x and y axis. If I need further adjustments I can probably source them myself
JWalmis created a limiter for me that comes very close to limiting the travel of the F-18C specs for 2.5" forward and 5" rearward. I also use a 200mm extension. The calibration software works wonders and gives full control input with the reduced physical input distance from center. Thanks @walmis
J
Dwell.. it's about 150mm from the pivot to the base of the grip
JKeeps the stick from striking MFDs mounted in the front.
Dthe limiters should be doing this yes
Phey guys I'm not very good when it comes to electricity/electronics but would an extra layer of shielding help? Like another layer of heat wrap? With electricity not really going through the wires I'm guessing that's what causes the 'noise' when the wires are bunched up & not when they're out straight? Then would the extra layer of heat wrap help or not really? More curious than anything now 
NIDK. Perhaps if the cable was shielded, it wouldn't have been a problem in the first place.. but I can't think of anything you could do to the cable externally that might help, and still be able to get it all back in the tube. The cable on these extensions is obscenely long. I ended up taking about 12cm out of the top half of the cable and soldered it back together.. working perfectly now.
PAhh ok cool, why does it have to be so long? I'm not familiar with Virpil, but does it need some slack for plugging in the grip?
NYou can pull the connector out at the bottom to assist in attaching it to the base. But it only needs maybe 3-5cm of slack for that to work. Like I said, I cut out about 12 cm and could have probably taken a little more.
NWhat’s the proper way to set up for DCS community mod modules that don’t support FFB (Herc) so the stick just acts like a regular joystick? By default the stick is just limp. Are we supposed to enable “sticky” in the spring effects or is there a better way to handle this dynamically?
PThe telem app should give basic ffb effects to aircraft
Pyou may need to add it to the telem app config file, might need someone else to help with that though sry
Pcheck through support here you should find convo on it
WTelemFFB def has the framework for this, with a few lines it will be possible to add a spring and other effects for non FFB aircraft. However until this is done you can use the "sticky" feature.
JTelem is what makes modules come alive. Is it possible to get a list of the commands available with notes for implementation? I realize it is still WIP and will grow over time.
P@walmis Do I need to order anything extra like a limiter so my stick will behave like the F/A 18 specs ?? I seem to recall something about a limiter in the order form ?
PYeah m8, you can order limiter plates when you place your order, you can also buy these anytime. The Rhino software does have a endstop feature that you can change per config, but the physical endtop plates are obviously going to be a bit more solid. I believe you can also get the 3d files to print them yourself
TThe limiter is in the knowledge-base.
You can change the dimensions to your liking and print it.
https://discord.com/channels/965234441511383080/1092338475795238962
You can change the dimensions to your liking and print it.
https://discord.com/channels/965234441511383080/1092338475795238962
DFor me one of the reasons to go FFB is so you can configure endstops on the fly so to speak, without having to assemble/dissasemble.
However physical plates are more solid, but I would still want something that could attach/detach quickly rather than screwing and unscrewing when I want to change the range
However physical plates are more solid, but I would still want something that could attach/detach quickly rather than screwing and unscrewing when I want to change the range
PPerfect, thanks.
JHe made one for me that is very close. Limits forward and rearward travel. The software calibrates to the physical limit so you lose no input authority.
Hgents, I'd like to assign two buttons of my throttle for the Y axis trim,