I did some testing with actual center detents and it was kind of halfway successful, but came with s
I did some testing with actual center detents and it was kind of halfway successful, but came with some adventures
ROk will try
RWhat did you finally decide worked for you?
A3+
Aand that was a very good and clear answer indeed, but actually caused by me flipping over a wireless keyboard not knowing that it was already on
Aanyway I wouldn't say that anything really worked for me very well
Aif you make that raised section on the curve really really tight you basically get detents, but there is a notable deadzone in the middle and there's a tendency for the stick to oscillate
Aif you totally screw things up and reverse the directions with rather high gains, you might end up with the w-f champion of the world
Aeven better if you're sitting at your desk and forget that apply actually apparently instantly applies the setting to the stick in your pit
Athe reason I tested detents was because some planes actually apparently have them and if I showed people it was possible, they would have to start using detents or not be true hardcore
AI guess the point in detents is that on some plane types you want really precise stick movements rather than smoothness across the movement area and detents help you isolate elevator and aileron axis (for example when you're in alt hold and don't want to mess with elevator while changing heading)
BThat drawing shows the plate thickness to be 4mm. My MT adapter plate for my Virpil CM3 stick base is 6mm. Is 4mm enough to firmly hold the Rhino in place? At about 11.5 lbs, I think it's a lot heavier than the CM3.
WYeah it's plenty, Rhino also has an 8mm MDF baseplate
C@walmis I fear I'm having the same issue here. For a little background I had a WW adapter that the pins got bent on that came with my VP Rhino delivery so I ordered a new one, however, despite ensuring good contact and proper pin seating I'm unable to detect any input from WW F16/EX Grip in Rhino config tool
My Setup:
Rhino -> Virpil Z-Extension -> WW Adapter -> F16EX Grip
What I have tried:
Rhino -> Thrustmaster WH Joystick Grip
Rhino -> Virpil Z-Extension -> Thrustmaster WH Joystick Grip
WW Orion 2 Base -> WW F16EX Grip
Rhino -> Virpil Z-Extension -> WW Adapter -> F16EX Grip
Rhino -> WW Adapter -> F16EX Grip
At this point I know the Z-Extension works because it worked with my Warthog Joystick, but nothing I plug into the WW adapter seems to work despite the grip working it's own WW Orion 2 Base
My Setup:
Rhino -> Virpil Z-Extension -> WW Adapter -> F16EX Grip
What I have tried:
Rhino -> Thrustmaster WH Joystick Grip Rhino -> Virpil Z-Extension -> Thrustmaster WH Joystick Grip WW Orion 2 Base -> WW F16EX Grip Rhino -> Virpil Z-Extension -> WW Adapter -> F16EX Grip Rhino -> WW Adapter -> F16EX GripAt this point I know the Z-Extension works because it worked with my Warthog Joystick, but nothing I plug into the WW adapter seems to work despite the grip working it's own WW Orion 2 Base
S@walmis i have this exact view and it just says the following when i set the grip type to debug... do you know what should i do?
Sit also appears to be "loose"
Sbut applying pressure doesn't make input appear
CSame...
SIf you could send a short video that would be great
PI had a similar issue, but when I started up DCS I saw the binds working. Ensure you have the proper grip type in VP Config tool, and test the changes in dcs. For some reason windows game control window did not see the buttons on the F-16EX
WLooks like Rhino is able to read the adapter, the other end didn't mate properly. I've found you might need to push the 6 pin WW connector harder into the adapter socket.
SI tried really hard but no dice⦠I have a WW base with me and it does work
SAnything else comes to mind? I tried to take it apart but wasnβt successful
WD'oh, I'll probably mail you a new one
SIf thereβs anything I can do so that you donβt have to mail me a new one Iβd like to try thatβ¦ but if not, Iβd appreciate a replacement 
WThere's a hack you could try, but that involves a soldering iron 
Let me know if you want to try.
Let me know if you want to try.CI'm willing to try if the alternative is mailing it back and waiting for another again
SSame - I do have a soldering iron (or two), would love to avoid waiting for another
SBut I could probably use some instructions
Wokay, I'll try to make a short vid
W
WThe idea is to push the pins in without creating solder bridges, only 3 pins labeled DATA GND and 3.3V are necessary, the others are NoConnect
WTo disassemble the plastic parts, mount it on the Rhino and then you can unscrew the 4 bolts holding it together
Cok I see! I will give this a shot in the morning. Thank you @walmis !
S@walmis I unscrewed the 4 screws, what do I do now?
Wpull out the top part
Swith force?
Sah, indeed
Sit looks like this, Iβm going to try pushing it in
S
SPushed them in a good amount
Wlet's hope it works
S
Sit does!!!
Sthank you!!! @walmis
Sthere are 3 axis on this grip though - any way for me to use those axis?
Wyeah, select WinWing adapter profile, axes should show up in windows controller settings
S@walmis is it still possible to get a replacement part? i noticed teh connection is quite unstable... it's very easy for the buttons to disappear if i move the stick
Sdamn, now i just get 0xFFs with the adapter... maybe i shorted something when i was doing this
CLong story short, Mine works too!
Long story long:
Long story long:
- I had 2 adapters because I goofed and snapped a pin in half on my first (Adapter A)
- I got a new one yesterday (Adapter B) and had the issue above
- I tried the fix on Adapter B and it didn't work. I think I might have created a solder bridge so I removed the solder with some solder wick and couldn't find my excess solder so I figured I'd try the fix on Adapter A even with one pin being about half length and missing that middle stabilizing plastic piece.
- I did a much better job with pushing the pins without messing up the solder on this one, however, when I put it all back together and tried it I had to get just enough force on the Rhino -> Adapter port for it to register. I'm worried if I move it too much it will likely disconnect one day.
- So I'm waiting on some new solder for Adapter B to see if I can salvage that one
WHmm, for some reason it's not talking on the Rhino end