Make sure you don’t have “sticky” enabled in the vpf configurator settings.
Make sure you don’t have “sticky” enabled in the vpf configurator settings.
RI have sticky unchecked and only the spring force enabled. DCS doesn't seem to override it. I was using a brunner before, when I launched into DCS, the stick would become "limp". But the rhino is behaving like a normal joystick with "springs". It's weird.
FDid you follow the DCS setup in the Rhino manual?
Ryes, I enable ffb in the DCS setting as per section 5.1 of the manual. The huey's trim setting is default.
RThis is what I see in dcs.log. For whatever reason, it is not recognizing the rhino as ffb.
NThat's a weird one
ROk, I unplugged everyting except for the rhino and DCS finally recognizes it as a ffb device.
RIt was a weird one. Thank you all for helping
Fpowered usb hub?
Rrhino is directly plugged into my pc and the other devices are plugged into the powered usb hubs
FHopefully someone can help. Doing initial setup of my Rhino and after starting the TelemFFB app for the first time I'm not getting screen that is shown in the Manual. instead I have a screen that says the following
F2023-12-24 13:54:57 - INFO - TelemFFB Starting
2023-12-24 13:54:57 - INFO - Found Saved Games directory: D:\Saved Games
2023-12-24 13:54:57 - INFO - D:\Saved Games\DCS does not exist, ignoring
2023-12-24 13:54:57 - INFO - Checking D:\Saved Games\DCS.openbeta\Scripts
2023-12-24 13:54:57 - INFO - Open Rhino HID FFFF:2055
2023-12-24 13:54:57 - INFO - Listening on UDP :34380
2023-12-24 13:54:57 - INFO - Found Saved Games directory: D:\Saved Games
2023-12-24 13:54:57 - INFO - D:\Saved Games\DCS does not exist, ignoring
2023-12-24 13:54:57 - INFO - Checking D:\Saved Games\DCS.openbeta\Scripts
2023-12-24 13:54:57 - INFO - Open Rhino HID FFFF:2055
2023-12-24 13:54:57 - INFO - Listening on UDP :34380
FAnd another screen saying DCs Telem waiting for data
TDid you play the game? The game has to be running
FYes I tried playing DCs and it seems to be working. My issue is what is in the manual seems to allow adjusting parameters which I can't access
TTry to use this. Ppl mixup what version to use
Thold on
Tthe bottom one
FAwesome thank you so much, that worked! Even without messing with settings this thing is an absolute game changer for my simpit. I'm so looking forward to my christmas holidays lol
FI'm guessing the manual is a little out of date as I can't see on this latest version you linked where the settings tab is to allow adjustment of parameters. I can only select telem monitor and effects monitor but can't adjust anything. No big deal, just wanting to fiddle with things
Nall of the cool fancy stuff you see in the manual is still in development 
the current latest released version is still flat text files for the config.
the current latest released version is still flat text files for the config.FAhh yes I think I was figuring that out as you were typing and I was looking into edit config file. Not a problem at all. I'm blown away with what we have already and looking forward to what is coming! Thanks for all the help
JNot sure how many people this will affect, but there was a recent Sabrent USB powered hub firmware update. If windows tells you there's not enough power, update your firmware.
CHello,
I have an issue: when I move very quickly my stick from left to right or from front to rear, the according motor “disabled” itself when I went near to the end of the course of the joystick. I still have the axis working, but no more FFB effect on it. There is also coggling occurred on the disabled axis. I need to go to the option “Debug/Reset Motor” to get my FFB effect back on the disabled axis. It seems I can reduce the issue by lowering “inertia” settings.
I’m using a DIY kit with and extension. Is it something I should do ?
I have an issue: when I move very quickly my stick from left to right or from front to rear, the according motor “disabled” itself when I went near to the end of the course of the joystick. I still have the axis working, but no more FFB effect on it. There is also coggling occurred on the disabled axis. I need to go to the option “Debug/Reset Motor” to get my FFB effect back on the disabled axis. It seems I can reduce the issue by lowering “inertia” settings.
I’m using a DIY kit with and extension. Is it something I should do ?
Phey m8, when the motor does a vibration then shuts down the forces but you still have axis input is the motor safety cut off protecting itself from instability, as far as I understand it anyway. Inertia & also friction I think are two that can cause instability, they should be set fairly low, also in Expert Settings what are your LPF settings at? you can lower those to lessen the intensity of the effect by lowering those numbers I believe.
RAny word I would love to orders some
CHere are my settings (reducing cut off effect). I find strange the "cut off" only occuring at the end of the move. As the problem seems linked to quick move, I reduce the effect linked to speed acceleration, beeing derivate of displacement. Previously they were at same level than friction.
Psry m8 been busy, those are my settings there, for the telem app periodic & constant effects should be 50%
PI have the Rhino not a diy tho
P@jehlybean Sorry for the delay. I called them the other day but the rep I spoke to couldn't find my order. I believe the reps I had worked with didn't enter the custom plate they made me into their system, but did it as a customer service resolution for me. However, I do believe if you call them and give them these specs they'll should be able to help you:
Item SKU: 65-2455 (this is a Solid Aluminum Plate: 6.350mm thick, the proper thickness for the 8mm countersunk you'll need to drill into it)
Dimensions: 180.32x190mm
Machining:
1) Full Edge Radius
2) 18mm Corner Radius (on all 4 corners)
The corner radius is what they don't have listed on their store page and is the reason you'd call them instead of ordering online. Worst case scenario, if you don't get the corners done, you'll just have little corner edges poking out where the rounded corners of the Rhino end. Not a huge deal. If you do get the corner radius done, the plate will perfectly match the underside of the Rhino.
Item SKU: 65-2455 (this is a Solid Aluminum Plate: 6.350mm thick, the proper thickness for the 8mm countersunk you'll need to drill into it)
Dimensions: 180.32x190mm
Machining:
1) Full Edge Radius
2) 18mm Corner Radius (on all 4 corners)
The corner radius is what they don't have listed on their store page and is the reason you'd call them instead of ordering online. Worst case scenario, if you don't get the corners done, you'll just have little corner edges poking out where the rounded corners of the Rhino end. Not a huge deal. If you do get the corner radius done, the plate will perfectly match the underside of the Rhino.
PIf you live in the states, the total price will be around $45 for the plate and $20 for shipping. The latest rep I spoke to had recommended looking at their local partnered distributors list and contacting them instead to get the corner radiuses done (he was surprised someone had made them for me).
Prior reps had also mentioned contacting local distributors to me too, but their recommendation was for potentially lower the shipping costs. The distributor lookup is a search bar on the bottom if the 8020.net website. There wasn't a local distributor for me, which is why I went the route of calling and working it out with them directly.
Prior reps had also mentioned contacting local distributors to me too, but their recommendation was for potentially lower the shipping costs. The distributor lookup is a search bar on the bottom if the 8020.net website. There wasn't a local distributor for me, which is why I went the route of calling and working it out with them directly.
THey guys, quick question. Can someone please check the voltage and amperage of the power adapter for the Rhino and let me know? A bunch of my sim gear got moved around during renovations and now I can't be sure which adapter is for what.
TPretty sure it's this big one that puts out 19V 9.5A 180W
WThat's the one
BAre you talking about a particular hub? And -- where did you learn of this?
JIt was a sabrent branded hub. I had my hf8 seat, collective and joy plugged into the same hub. My stick kept disconnecting and windows finally said “not enough power”. Knowing there was more than enough to spare, I started googling. Turns out it was a firmware issue.
JI plug my joystick in, does it beep, centers, immediately beeps and goes dead.
TThank you.
MVIRPIL has a handy voltage readout in their software, telling you how much tension is applied to the device's USB. I wonder if there's anything like that in the configurator app for the Rhino (USB voltage readout)?
AI'm having some difficulty having my generic TM grip being detected, I've triple checked the wiring & the grip on another gimbal. Interestingly when I press certain buttons (1st stage detent on the trigger for example) I hear a slight buzzing from the mainboard as if something is shorting, but the connector or wiring are all isolated, anyone have any ideas?
WCan you verify your connection to the mainboard?
Awill do, stdby
AYep, verified
Awhen booting up (with the grip connected) debug shows me this:
WYeah doesn't look right
WIf you disconnect the grip it should be all FFs
Aso even with the connector disconnected from the mainboard, I get the same result from the debugger
WCan you check if the DATA line is shorting to GND somewhere?
Ain the connector it isn't, when the mainboard is unpowered it isn't, but when the mainboard is connected to usb (not psu) I do get a shot between DATA and GND