How heavy would you say your mod is? Around the same weight as the Rhino?
How heavy would you say your mod is? Around the same weight as the Rhino?
PYep. I've just spent a pretty huge amount of money on sim gear over the last 12 months. Trying to recover first 
P
PIn my mind that pedal plate would be the perfect home for a ffb motor, would keep my Rhino company
NHmm…the extrusion and various hardware isn’t very heavy. The motor is a boat anchor though.
NIt would definitely have some inertia flinging around out in the front of your rig.
PThank you for the all the info. Might fool around with the STL and measure things out.
PWhere did you get that nice gray toggle cap that you put on a switch on the Virpil control panel? Something like this is very good when using VR.
PA+ vendor. Also you can check out his upcoming products on his channel on the HOTAS/HOSAS/SIMPIT discord: https://www.etsy.com/shop/DeathDonkyPrints
Etsy
Shop www.deathdonkyprints.com by DeathDonkyPrints located in Illinois, United States. Smooth shipping! Has a history of shipping on time with tracking. Rave reviews! Average review rating is 4.8 or higher
PNice! Thx for sharing. I will definitely order it there. I've searched around a lot but haven't found anything like this yet.
PDo you use cougar mfds?
PIf so, these are also fantastic (I have 3 sets). Can't imagine using MFD in VR without them
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1516000844/thrustmaster-oversized-flexible-mfd-vr
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1516000844/thrustmaster-oversized-flexible-mfd-vr
PYes, but I'm currently using WinWing's.
PNice!
PAh gotcha. Not sure it's as easy to add tactiles to those. The cougar mfds are fairly easy to take apart.
PThe shapes he used might give you some ideas for putting some ridges on your buttons if you have any issues with them in VR
PI glued rubber buffers to every second switch on my MFD‘s. This works quite well for me too.
MHuh.. I've got a pair that sit unused for this reason.. might pick some of those up and dust them off now
ANice setup. What Seat are you using?
Sjust thought about this: could u program the rhino to act similar to a cars gear shift?
V:package: 
RHINO #0360 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0360 Has Shipped!
FAlways curious when I see mfds like that, aren't they too far forward? Do you have to reach to use them?
DI
DHave searched but cannot find any example settings for planes or rotors. Is there a section that people have shared theirs? Thanks
PItem Features Fitment: Fit For Most Vehicles (CUSTOM SEAT BRACKETS NEEDED. NOT INCLUDED) Color: Driver Side+Black with Trims Material: PU Leather Front; PU + Carbon Leather Back Style: Seats can hold 300 LBS Sliders: 1 PC of Dual Slider Included, can slide forward or backward with ease & smooth S...
PNo, they are well within reach.
PAlthough I'm 6'2. So if someone had much shorter arms I suppose it could be an issue.
T@Poor Yurik How does the H3 feel for helicopter flying, if you don't mind me asking? Any cogging issues?
PFor reference, I hit the F keys on that keyboard behind the MFDs while I'm flying.
PA few thoughts:
1) Overall I love it. It has taken modding to get mine to where it is right now. I recommend the Facebook group "DOFReality Builders". For example I did the diode mod and misalignment spacer mods discussed there (both very easy to do). I also added the extrusions that my seat sits on and sawed the stock H3 seat crossbar in half and used it to mount the left and right MFDs and windtubes.
2) the H3 is one part of many components that make the experience come to life imo. The haptic seat pad, buttkicker, and hurricane wind kit are also must-haves imo. For example, the wind kit (which is a bundle option with the H3) gives me a sensory cue of when I'm moving extremely fast in a helo so I can anticipate overspeed, or when I'm in a plane it helps me avoid stalls and manage my speed during dogfights.
3) Only thing missing for me from the H3 is as time has gone on I've started to increasinlynwant to add the feeling of moving straight up and down for helos (or even the feeling of dipping down in a plane like the fishbed). It would also add the surge feel of carrier takeoffs and landings. I will probably upgrade to an H6 eventually.
1) Overall I love it. It has taken modding to get mine to where it is right now. I recommend the Facebook group "DOFReality Builders". For example I did the diode mod and misalignment spacer mods discussed there (both very easy to do). I also added the extrusions that my seat sits on and sawed the stock H3 seat crossbar in half and used it to mount the left and right MFDs and windtubes.
2) the H3 is one part of many components that make the experience come to life imo. The haptic seat pad, buttkicker, and hurricane wind kit are also must-haves imo. For example, the wind kit (which is a bundle option with the H3) gives me a sensory cue of when I'm moving extremely fast in a helo so I can anticipate overspeed, or when I'm in a plane it helps me avoid stalls and manage my speed during dogfights.
3) Only thing missing for me from the H3 is as time has gone on I've started to increasinlynwant to add the feeling of moving straight up and down for helos (or even the feeling of dipping down in a plane like the fishbed). It would also add the surge feel of carrier takeoffs and landings. I will probably upgrade to an H6 eventually.
PThe only thing I'd ever have described as cogging was pretty gnarly but I fixed it with the diode mod (~$10 + 20 minutes to install).
PI'll post a video of my rig moving
TWow, lot of good information, thanks! I'm still dreaming of this, but playing with the idea. I was kinda hoping for "it's no good, save your money" 
PActually I just realized the only recent video I have has the settings turned way down with my young daughter on a rollercoaster 
TBut good to hear it feels good without the planetary gear motor mod
PThe Black Shark is what got me excited enough to buy all this stuff initially. Then it just went here from there.
PYep. I think the planetary thing is very cool but unnecessary once you make the mods I mentioned.
PAlso, important to note that when you read these groups the dof rigs have evolved a great deal over time. The newer models with SFUs and encoder motors simply do not have the same issues as the older models.
PRight after I bought my rig last August they started shipping the rigs largely pre-built and with brakes so they don't dip when they turn off. I had to fully build mine.
TRight, seems so indeed. I saw some people complaining about the cogging even with the SFUs, but there were many other opinions too. But good info, thanks. I might DM you with more questions later when I've digested this a bit.
TIt seems the H3 doesn't come with the SFUs, so might make more sense to go straight to H6, but damn that's expensive... not compared to other 6dof rigs of course, but in general.
PRight on. This has become a hobby for me all in of itself. The modding has definitely been part of the fun (and challenge) for me. Learned how to use extrusions, drill countersunk holes (for my Rhino plate I made), cut metal to size, etc.
PI had the same thoughts. H3 with SFU upgrade made way more sense to me as a starting point. Can always upgrade later. Also, any H6 stats on the dofr website are identical to the H3 with SFUs. The listed H3 stats are stock only (without SFUs).
DJust my experience, I had a HORRIBLE time doing the SFU upgrade, I wish I had not. My P6 has not worked correctly since… in fact it is not working right now. If I was getting a DOFReality rig now, I would definitely buy one that I did. Or have to upgrade. When it works, it is amazing, when it does not, it is completely tragic.
DRight now, I probably have the world’s most expensive stationary rig.
DMaybe the Aston Martin branded race rigs are more expensive… maybe.
DOn a happier note, last night was the first long session with the Rhino during virtual squadron ops….worked like a champ! No yanking and banking, was a fairly mundane mission, but flying #2 in a three-ship doing the overhead was simply sublime, trimmed up I might have been 10 feet off altitude in the downwind and the “feel” in the stick when I landed was as realistic as I feel you can get.
PUpgrading from the old units versus buying the SFUs to start is likely completely different. Installing the SFUs in my newer model was incredibly easy.
PEspecially considering DOFReality pre-builds the units before shipping them out now.
DYeah… I have an early P6 model. It has been a bit of a nightmare to be honest. I have another hall sensor coming from Ukraine and just received another Arduino board to replace the one I replaced from before. Hopefully this fixes it.
PFrom everything I've read in the groups, the older models definitely had a lot of problems the newer ones don't have anymore. Any build challenges I had were quickly solved by help from the dofr builders fb community. Hearing that the new units are pre-built makes me simultaneously jealous of new buyers but also makes me feel like they are missing out on a crucial right of passage lol
