I'll try a general profile from the knowledge base and see if that helps.
I'll try a general profile from the knowledge base and see if that helps.
OI'm going to be honest - I've looked at the manual but I'm struggling a little to understand what I need to do when a profile isn't found in TelemFFB
PHi everyone, I’m using two grips on the rhyno depending the aircraft. MSFS only allows one profile and when I switch grips I have to re map some of the buttons in msfs. Can anyone suggest a way around this?
PI’ve only had mine for a short time too and I was in the same boat. These are the settings that I’m using now, which are working pretty well.
Hjust discovered the knowledge base after my post...
yes read the manual except chapter 4, but it leaves some basic questions unanswered for me:
1) are there any DONTS to be aware of, such as issues to be expected, when putting all SETTINGS sliders to 100%; in other words, are the sliders supposed to be at 100% and reduced as required individually OR should they be treated like a HIFI amplifier volume that you would only increase to its max with caution?
2) will the EFFECTS settings be overridden when using the rhino with DCS? -at least thats the case for spring force, when used with helos, hence the question...
thanks, and sorry for all the text
yes read the manual except chapter 4, but it leaves some basic questions unanswered for me:
1) are there any DONTS to be aware of, such as issues to be expected, when putting all SETTINGS sliders to 100%; in other words, are the sliders supposed to be at 100% and reduced as required individually OR should they be treated like a HIFI amplifier volume that you would only increase to its max with caution?
2) will the EFFECTS settings be overridden when using the rhino with DCS? -at least thats the case for spring force, when used with helos, hence the question...
thanks, and sorry for all the text
AI'd say turning EVERYTHING to 100% definitely counts as a "don't". Master gain controls everything, spring force is the maximum force and periodic effects controls all the effects you feel and those are pretty much everything you really need. I tend to add some damper and you can experiment with all the stuffs if you want to, but generally you don't need any of the extras and some combinations and settings can definitely lead to "interesting" end results.
Basically the way the system works is that the configurator settings define what your stick "is" and in-game settings define what it "does". If your spring force in configurator is 50%, any games will be able to adjust the spring force between 0 and 50% of the Rhino's maximum. You can start by upping the gains and spring force to the max to get a feel for what the Rhino can do. This will not break the base (I won't guarantee anything, though), it will simply cause more heat to build up and the Rhino will know what to do when that happens. Then adjust the settings (spring force in configurator) to what you like and go from there. If this causes too much heating and you'd rather not have the fans kick in and the stick reduce forces automatically, keep adjusting until you are comfortable.
One way to adjust the effects settings is to set them to 100%, make the potentiometer adjust periodic effects, go fly and keep adjusting literally on the fly until you're happy. With the other settings you can of course experiment to your heart's content, but I'd suggest that at least initially you leave everything alone unless you really feel that you need some damping or friction. And always after applying settings watch out for weirdness, hold the stick firmly and keep one eye on that big red button.
Basically the way the system works is that the configurator settings define what your stick "is" and in-game settings define what it "does". If your spring force in configurator is 50%, any games will be able to adjust the spring force between 0 and 50% of the Rhino's maximum. You can start by upping the gains and spring force to the max to get a feel for what the Rhino can do. This will not break the base (I won't guarantee anything, though), it will simply cause more heat to build up and the Rhino will know what to do when that happens. Then adjust the settings (spring force in configurator) to what you like and go from there. If this causes too much heating and you'd rather not have the fans kick in and the stick reduce forces automatically, keep adjusting until you are comfortable.
One way to adjust the effects settings is to set them to 100%, make the potentiometer adjust periodic effects, go fly and keep adjusting literally on the fly until you're happy. With the other settings you can of course experiment to your heart's content, but I'd suggest that at least initially you leave everything alone unless you really feel that you need some damping or friction. And always after applying settings watch out for weirdness, hold the stick firmly and keep one eye on that big red button.
NThese community mods often don't support FFB. The C130 is the same way. In DCS, the actual FFB part (resistance, spring, trim, etc.) are all modeled by each individual aircraft. TelemFFB only adds supplemental effects/rumbles etc.
To create a new aircraft profile in TelemFFB for an aircraft that it does not know about, hit that big purple button that says Create/Clone config for new aircraft. But this will not fix the lack of FFB issue on the Sk60
To create a new aircraft profile in TelemFFB for an aircraft that it does not know about, hit that big purple button that says Create/Clone config for new aircraft. But this will not fix the lack of FFB issue on the Sk60
OThanks for that explanation. I suspected it was something like that. So would adjusting settings in VPForce FFB Configurator at least be able to get me a better "stick feel" until I can create a new config in TelemFFB for the Sk60?
OI'm hoping the answer is yes because the VNAO T-45 also doesn't have a profile but the stick feel is much better without messing with any settings (amount of resistance)
Nnot really, no. TelemFFB is just an effects generator for DCS, since DCS has native FFB implementation (as opposed to MSFS where TelemFFB does it all since MSFS has no FFB).
When you start DCS, the app sends a "reset" to all FFB devices, this is why your stick goes limp when starting the game.
Each individual module is responsible for setting up their own FFB effects like spring/damper, etc.
If the Sk60 mod doesn't implement any FFB, the only thing you will be able to do is create a VPForce Configurator profile with "sticky spring" enabled. You could then use the hardware trim features in Configurator to be able to trim the stick with a hat switch.
Then you could export this configurator profile and use TelemFFB to dynamically load it when you spawn into that aircraft.
When you start DCS, the app sends a "reset" to all FFB devices, this is why your stick goes limp when starting the game.
Each individual module is responsible for setting up their own FFB effects like spring/damper, etc.
If the Sk60 mod doesn't implement any FFB, the only thing you will be able to do is create a VPForce Configurator profile with "sticky spring" enabled. You could then use the hardware trim features in Configurator to be able to trim the stick with a hat switch.
Then you could export this configurator profile and use TelemFFB to dynamically load it when you spawn into that aircraft.
THow to enable Hardware trim for DCS? I've chosen
Instant trim in special settings and I have TelemFFB running in the background
ARegard the effects sliders as spices:
You can pour everything in all the jars on right away, but you’ll likely ruin the dish.
In this case the dish costs over 800€ though.
You can pour everything in all the jars on right away, but you’ll likely ruin the dish.
In this case the dish costs over 800€ though.
AI ramped especially periodic effects up to 100% initially, but it’s honestly too damned much. The shaking will be uncomfortable and I’m not even sure that all the hardware involved stands up to it well in the long run (my MT chair mount had started shaking the screws open after a while).
I’ve been back to the default slider settings since a couple of weeks after I got it last May. Minor tweaks in Effects and module specific ones in TelemFFB.
I’ve been back to the default slider settings since a couple of weeks after I got it last May. Minor tweaks in Effects and module specific ones in TelemFFB.
THow do I enable this? I fiddled with the hat to button check marks and stuff, I dont seem to be able to make it work.
TIf its enable already, it's not working on my end as when I use the thumbsticks, there are no button activation on the configurator.
WCalibrate the thumbstick and it will work as Hat4
Talright, ty
TWorking now, ty again.
NIsit possible to rotate the connector 180deg? I unscrewed the screws but don’t want to tug on the piece too hard. It’s not coming out easily.
OThanks for the help - managed to create a profile for the SK60b thats working pretty well now.
WYou might need to open the leather cover and feed in the cable into the tube
Nah ok thanks, but we are suppose to be able to swap it around yes?
WYeah
Nworked like a charm
NI noticed I get a lot of creaking when using any extension really
NI think the creaking actually happens somewhre in the shaft with an extension installed due to the torque. I already tightened the 4 horizontal screws, but am afraid to tighten them more since they are going through the printed material.
NAnybody else got the same issue?
Nits very noticable on the roll axis
N
Fuuufff...maybe put some o-rings inbetween the shaft and stick?
GHi @walmis, hi all, I'm having an issue. Just unpacked my DIY kit and powered it on.
Motor X is offline, Motor Y is Ok, USB is connected. Firmware is 1.0.16. The motor X looks powered and blink green. It looks like address or RS-485 is wrong or something like that.
How to fix it?. Same problem reported by Vitalii on 03/01
Motor X is offline, Motor Y is Ok, USB is connected. Firmware is 1.0.16. The motor X looks powered and blink green. It looks like address or RS-485 is wrong or something like that.
How to fix it?. Same problem reported by Vitalii on 03/01
NIt’s not actually the connection between the threads that is super solid. Something in the shaft is creaking. @walmis any pointers?
G@walmis. I have to disconnect the X plug Motor 1 to calibrate , otherwise both motors shows offline. i also tested motor X connected at Plug Y motor 2 and it is ok. Looks like something wrong with firmware or motor 1 connector
WDoes it creak if you pull from the lower shaft (under the aliminum tube) ?
LHi, I investigated a noise when moving the stick forward and back (w/ > 50% spring force) and found out this screw is completely loose. It rotates freely like it's not connecting to anything. It is all the way in its hole and the screw is not damaged. I can not tighten it. Other screws seem tight but not overtight. Suggestions?
NI have a similar issue.
NNone of my top screws were lose but I tightened them a bit more. Still creaking.
NNo it does not creak when I hold onto where the mounting thread is. But if I move the stick left and right and feel through the boot while moving, I can feel something shifting. I will try tighten the lower set of screws going in the shaft next.
LI know you asked neok but I tried this and for me it makes the same noise (or rather I feel something move) even if I push/pull the stick from the plastic part below the aluminium shaft. So the cause may different in my case?
WIt could be a couple of things -
- a loose motor pulley - tighten pulley grub screws
- Loose large gear bolts - tighten the 5 hex bolts
- Tighten the bearings preload of the gimbal itself. Those are hard to reach, but I'm able to grab the screws with long nose pliers and turning the gimbal to tighten em.
LThanks! It must be the bearing screws inside then, tightening the screws outside changed nothing. I'll figure out how to reach them with pliers next.
NWhere are the pulley grub screws?
Whello everyone, I'm taking the next step, I'm starting the FFB rhino, I already have the files being printed, my question is I found the 57BL03 motors through a professional supplier, however it is the type of motherboard to control the 2 motors and where I found it.
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
Gif possible to improve the force on the DCS Helicopter? When release the force trim the stick is too floppy (soft); but only in the game, in the software was perfect. thx
NIt is not possible to directly change these forces from DCS. Best to change the settings to your liking in configurator while you are loaded in the aircraft in DCS.
FThe reason I felt ticking was interference between the wire for grip and body of the base 
VNot sure if this was talked about before. I've run into an issue with TelemFFB when I run both DCS client and a dedicated server instance off the same PC.
The big issue is that sometimes the base will remain in the "limp" mode, same one I'd get when I'm loading into DCS and it's waiting for inputs. This is not happening always, so I'm wondering is there some process scanning priority going on or should I start DCS first and only then start dedicated server so the TelemFFB hooks to the first "DCS" process?
The big issue is that sometimes the base will remain in the "limp" mode, same one I'd get when I'm loading into DCS and it's waiting for inputs. This is not happening always, so I'm wondering is there some process scanning priority going on or should I start DCS first and only then start dedicated server so the TelemFFB hooks to the first "DCS" process?
WThis sounds tricky, seems like DCS takes control of FFB regardless if it's a server or not. You could try playing with HID Hide utility to hide the Rhino for the server instance.
VOk, will do. That seems like an easy thing to do. I'll test it out, if it helps I'll fill out a bug report to ED