Calibrate the thumbstick and it will work as Hat4
Calibrate the thumbstick and it will work as Hat4
Talright, ty
TWorking now, ty again.
NIsit possible to rotate the connector 180deg? I unscrewed the screws but don’t want to tug on the piece too hard. It’s not coming out easily.
OThanks for the help - managed to create a profile for the SK60b thats working pretty well now.
WYou might need to open the leather cover and feed in the cable into the tube
Nah ok thanks, but we are suppose to be able to swap it around yes?
WYeah
Nworked like a charm
NI noticed I get a lot of creaking when using any extension really
NI think the creaking actually happens somewhre in the shaft with an extension installed due to the torque. I already tightened the 4 horizontal screws, but am afraid to tighten them more since they are going through the printed material.
NAnybody else got the same issue?
Nits very noticable on the roll axis
N
Fuuufff...maybe put some o-rings inbetween the shaft and stick?
GHi @walmis, hi all, I'm having an issue. Just unpacked my DIY kit and powered it on.
Motor X is offline, Motor Y is Ok, USB is connected. Firmware is 1.0.16. The motor X looks powered and blink green. It looks like address or RS-485 is wrong or something like that.
How to fix it?. Same problem reported by Vitalii on 03/01
Motor X is offline, Motor Y is Ok, USB is connected. Firmware is 1.0.16. The motor X looks powered and blink green. It looks like address or RS-485 is wrong or something like that.
How to fix it?. Same problem reported by Vitalii on 03/01
NIt’s not actually the connection between the threads that is super solid. Something in the shaft is creaking. @walmis any pointers?
G@walmis. I have to disconnect the X plug Motor 1 to calibrate , otherwise both motors shows offline. i also tested motor X connected at Plug Y motor 2 and it is ok. Looks like something wrong with firmware or motor 1 connector
WDM'd
WDoes it creak if you pull from the lower shaft (under the aliminum tube) ?
LHi, I investigated a noise when moving the stick forward and back (w/ > 50% spring force) and found out this screw is completely loose. It rotates freely like it's not connecting to anything. It is all the way in its hole and the screw is not damaged. I can not tighten it. Other screws seem tight but not overtight. Suggestions?
NI have a similar issue.
NNone of my top screws were lose but I tightened them a bit more. Still creaking.
NNo it does not creak when I hold onto where the mounting thread is. But if I move the stick left and right and feel through the boot while moving, I can feel something shifting. I will try tighten the lower set of screws going in the shaft next.
LI know you asked neok but I tried this and for me it makes the same noise (or rather I feel something move) even if I push/pull the stick from the plastic part below the aluminium shaft. So the cause may different in my case?
WIt could be a couple of things -
- a loose motor pulley - tighten pulley grub screws
- Loose large gear bolts - tighten the 5 hex bolts
- Tighten the bearings preload of the gimbal itself. Those are hard to reach, but I'm able to grab the screws with long nose pliers and turning the gimbal to tighten em.
LThanks! It must be the bearing screws inside then, tightening the screws outside changed nothing. I'll figure out how to reach them with pliers next.
NWhere are the pulley grub screws?
Whello everyone, I'm taking the next step, I'm starting the FFB rhino, I already have the files being printed, my question is I found the 57BL03 motors through a professional supplier, however it is the type of motherboard to control the 2 motors and where I found it.
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
Gif possible to improve the force on the DCS Helicopter? When release the force trim the stick is too floppy (soft); but only in the game, in the software was perfect. thx
NIt is not possible to directly change these forces from DCS. Best to change the settings to your liking in configurator while you are loaded in the aircraft in DCS.
FThe reason I felt ticking was interference between the wire for grip and body of the base 
VNot sure if this was talked about before. I've run into an issue with TelemFFB when I run both DCS client and a dedicated server instance off the same PC.
The big issue is that sometimes the base will remain in the "limp" mode, same one I'd get when I'm loading into DCS and it's waiting for inputs. This is not happening always, so I'm wondering is there some process scanning priority going on or should I start DCS first and only then start dedicated server so the TelemFFB hooks to the first "DCS" process?
The big issue is that sometimes the base will remain in the "limp" mode, same one I'd get when I'm loading into DCS and it's waiting for inputs. This is not happening always, so I'm wondering is there some process scanning priority going on or should I start DCS first and only then start dedicated server so the TelemFFB hooks to the first "DCS" process?
WThis sounds tricky, seems like DCS takes control of FFB regardless if it's a server or not. You could try playing with HID Hide utility to hide the Rhino for the server instance.
VOk, will do. That seems like an easy thing to do. I'll test it out, if it helps I'll fill out a bug report to ED
AI use dediserver to play large campaign missions and it seems that actually the last dcs to launch takees control
Aso start the server first
VYeah, that would explain why I only sometimes experienced this, but never really paid too much attention why is it like that. I'll give it a proper test tonight
PIs there a way to prevent bounce back oscillations please ? I think it is bounce back from the end stop values ?
Pingame oscillations are exaggerated in severity if you hit the end stops due to forces generated against them, for example letting go of the stick when flying something like the Mig29 when at high AoA
Oincreasing damping/friction is how i've dealt with it
PCool, will give that a go, thanks.
Otry damping at 30% to start with and go from there (that's what i've found is nicest feel wise personally)
VFeels idiotic replying to myself, but figured best way to link it. Anyways, as far as DCS is concerned issue is reproduced and reported by ED. Hopefully it gets fixed soon 
Thanks for pointing me in right direction
Thanks for pointing me in right directionAthat's good news
Aso I'm currently trying to figure out the exact components that I need for my FFB stick. I'm assuming that the Rhino FFB Base and the VPforce Steel Mount are the no-brainers, but if I am trying to use a VKB gladiator stick, is there any other special mount that I need to order? Will I need the VKB adapter?
Oyeah, you'll need the vkb adapter
P@walmis I've placed an order for the DIY FFB kit: 86BLF03 x1 + USB based on feedback from @Tinman rather than the F04 versions for the slaw rudder pedal conversion. Questions can I ...1. add another motor to the controller at a later stage ( collective conversion ? and /or 2 does that motor have to be the same 03 version or can I shoot for a 57blf03 for instance for the collective conversion later?
NYou can mix/match motors on a board, but be aware that TelemFFB and presumably any software that supported pedals/collective (there are none) doesn’t work that way. Each control needs to be its own usb device.
Pok good to know....
PI shall mull on that