2024-03-18 17:12:08.947 - INFO - joystick - Device reset event: Invalidating all effects added as
2024-03-18 17:12:08.947 - INFO - joystick - Device reset event: Invalidating all effects added as i launch DCS
BDCS running, FFB in MISC checked , yellow icon in Teleb FFB for DCS
SI see from a previous message that you were struggling to get your hands on a Rev.C extension in order to make an adapter for MkIV gunfighter grips. Any progress on this? I have 100mm and 200mm Rev C extensions that I’d be willing to provide for research as I’m getting close to the end of the queue and it would be something I’d like by the time I get there 
Nthis is normal.. thats DCS taking control of the ffb device. DCS doesn't send any telemetry until you load into a flight, so it will remain yellow until you do so.. after which it will appear paused when paused or not in an aircraft.
Bthanks , i launched an F86 , had a quick fly , did something that got a violent stick shake but other than that i felt gentle feed back , going to fix to mount and then try subtle changes , etc from then , just out of info , what was the main cause of issue at start , shall i just keep pots disabled , or possibly physically disconnected from board ?
NCouldn't say for sure why telemffb failed to connect before.. could be any number of things.... hung instance.. maybe you had 2 instances up and didn't realize it... maybe your e-stop switch was off, etc, etc.
The pots are fine to have connected, as long as you understand how they work and what they do and how far you want to turn them up... they really just offer a convenient quick way to adjust one setting or another.
The pots are fine to have connected, as long as you understand how they work and what they do and how far you want to turn them up... they really just offer a convenient quick way to adjust one setting or another.
BOk thanks a lot for the detailed support ,
ASo I've messed up a bit. I bought an extension on ebay to put between my Rhino and my Virpil stick. It's just a solid 3D-printed lump with the correct connectors at either end. However the socket on the Rhino side is bit loose fit compared to the extension, so it could twist a little in the socket. And since the plug is a solid part of it, that twisted the plug too, which bent the pins.
AI bent the pins back, but now there must be a bad connection, as some buttons always register as pressed, whether they are or not... except if I push the plug to the right and hold it, then it works like it should.
AProblem is that this happens even when I use the old extension I had too. So I suspect the plug on the Rhino end is broken now
AAlthough it does work as expected if I plug the stick directly into the Rhino
AAnyone have good ideas for how to proceed?
AMaybe getting a new plug for the Rhino?
JWell if you suspect the mini din 5 pin female is damaged, it probably needs to be replaced. Although I'm not sure why the stick alone works fine. Are you sure nothing broke off into the connector? I'm not sure which mini din 5 pin Walmis used, you may want to source the replacement from him for correct a fit.
Pjust got a replacement cable, issue still persists unfortunately 
Pwhen holding the stick when I plug it in, I do feel it briefly and very softly pulse but that's it
WEh, guess we need to dig deeper.
It puts motors to sleep when there's no USB connectivity.
It's either the internal cable or the motherboard. Both are easily replaceable, but let's check the internal cable first.
You can open up the Rhino's rear panel and access the wiring. You will see the USB wire as shown in the pic. You can try reseating the connector.
If that doesn't work you can check the front side flange connector by pulling it out of the front, pulling down the heatshrink and checking for loose wires.
It puts motors to sleep when there's no USB connectivity.
It's either the internal cable or the motherboard. Both are easily replaceable, but let's check the internal cable first.
You can open up the Rhino's rear panel and access the wiring. You will see the USB wire as shown in the pic. You can try reseating the connector.
If that doesn't work you can check the front side flange connector by pulling it out of the front, pulling down the heatshrink and checking for loose wires.
PI'll try that this evening
PI'm currently in the process of setting up the Rhino to fly with the Ka-50 in DCS. In the Special Settings in DCS I selected Instant Trim (default). I'm currently using the Rhino with the VPC Constallation Alpha handle along with the Z-Extension from Virpil. I use LSTRG + ENTER to display the Control Indicator window. If I press the trimmer button and bring the stick into a position and release the trimmer button again, the stick and the indicator always move a little further. I was also of the opinion that the new trim position is the new center and that the stick returns to this new center position when I no longer press it. But that's not the case. Am I doing something wrong or have I not configured correctly?
PI sat it up this way.
Ndo you have any curves set up on the cyclic axis in DCS? You'll see behavior like this if you do
PNo curves. Should I apply more force in the Balance Spring Section FWR, X-Left and X-Right?
WDoes the stick hold position at any angle if you completely disable the default spring effect?
PShould I disable the Balance Spring settings in the Effects Tab and Spring settings to 0 in the Settings Tab?
PAh I know what you meant. - no it falls in the end positions. Only if it is exacly in the middle it holds position.
Wuncheck spring and leave balance spring
PDone, but the stick turns always to the center. Also when I release Trim in a deflected position.
PSo I guess my Stick and Extension combination is to heavy to work properly with Heli Trim?
NI run the z extension with the metal Alpha Prime... no issues maintaining center along with balance spring and adaptive recentering
N
PI sat up my Effects page like you - and it improved already. Can you show me your Settings page also?
Ndon't pay too much attention to the sliders (only spring is enabled currently in the effects tab anyway).. I load a different profile with full spring force with TelemFFB when it starts
PNow the stick stays - more or less - in the trimed position. But when I release the Trim button the stick in DCS / the position of the displayed indicator move still a little further. Is this the way it should do?
NI don't have the KA50, so I cant say for sure what is normal... I've never really looked at the control view before, but looking just now with the UH1, when I first release TR and let go of the stick, it does sag just a little until the adaptive centering brings it back to the proper point where I released TR.
PThanks a lot for your hints. I will try and check in the Sim also try the DCS Apache and Hind. Do you mind to send me your TelemFFB cfg?
Nyou dont want my config 
... its all sorts of wonky with weird settings and stuff from doing development.
... its all sorts of wonky with weird settings and stuff from doing development.WPay attention to the trim/position indicator - if the dot stays inside the circle centered you're golden!
PYour right 
. Better I should try out by myself.
. Better I should try out by myself.PIt does but without the green cycle around it.
NI'd suggest setting up and tuning/testing by using the hardware trim option in configurator rather than testing it first in DCS. If the dot is centered in the circle after releasing the HW trim button while only using configurator, but it is offsetting in the heli in DCS, then the issue is with DCS/The module rather than your vpforce config.
POut of DCS it works fine 
. I will play with the config of DCS. THX!!!
. I will play with the config of DCS. THX!!!
W
W
WYeah, major ISP outage
W
POK I think I've found the issue. I reseated the cable and checked the front side flange connector for loose wiring. They aren't loose. However I think the female connector itself might be slightly bent or one of its pins are. In very select scenarios by angling the plug I can get it to connect, but it's difficult to do so and the moment it moves it disconnects. So something has probably slipped there. My guess would be replacing the cable and its connector would be easiest(I don't have anything to solder with)
WNice, that's great that we found the issue. I'll mail you a new cable tomorrow.
W@Panny You can also fiddle with the connector with tweezers, maybe you'll be able to fix the problematic contact (That will save some time with shipping, and you'll be able to use your Rhino sooner)
Psubject to the limitations of my fat fingers
PI will try my best or conscript my girlfriend