I think we're about to find out if the kit works with older mfgs
I think we're about to find out if the kit works with older mfgs
MJust been trying stuff out, instant trim is the way, I agree. The telemFFB effects are superb, I was using a CM3 Virpil base before which was very nice, but this is really good. Been using a Rhino in my jet sim pit for around 6 months now and really love it and was wondering how much better one would be in the Helo pit. Pleasantly surprised!
CI know it's pointless with the current state of what sims are exporting and such, but I'd really love to have ffb on the brake axes at some point. Steering airplanes with differential braking is easy in real life, but a PITA in the sims.
CBut any idea what the time fram is going to roughly be for people who go ahead and fill out the mfg preorder today?
PI've wondered how load cells would go on the toe brakes, I believe someone here did try it as a mod. If it could be done somewhat close to the racing sim brakes it might feel a lot better & be a bit more precise, I for one would def love some really nice feeling toe brakes closer to irl.
Cfor sure. I actually think it would be more of an improvement for me than the actual rudder axis. I don't fly helis at all, though.
TLoad cells or force sensing resistors are on my list for a mod someday. Need to build my FFB stick/rudders/collective first though.
MV2 and V3 are almost identical, the only thing that moved is one screw hole, but didn't Walmis say that this kit is gonna require some drilling anyways? Not sure how much V1 varies, but I imagine due to the fact that you are replacing the entire MFG drive and swapping in the VP Force drive, it should be possible, since they should have a damn near identical footprint
AI'm wondering about the tow brake sensor connectors
Cthing is, if there's no info coming back from the sim about when exactly the brakes are engaging or how much brake force is being applied in the sim, the ffb on the axes is kind of useless. It wouldn't be helpful beyond just making the brakes "feel" better.
NI see two problems here.
1.) Our calfs/feet are pretty strong. It would be nigh physically impossible to get motors and/or gear reduction on the brake axes that were strong enough to produce even remotely convincing results.
2.) Lack of telemetry. Given what I know about telemetry from the various sims I would put them in this order:
1.) Our calfs/feet are pretty strong. It would be nigh physically impossible to get motors and/or gear reduction on the brake axes that were strong enough to produce even remotely convincing results.
2.) Lack of telemetry. Given what I know about telemetry from the various sims I would put them in this order:
- X-Plane - probably has data you could use
- MSFS - maybe has enough data to use
- DCS - no way
- IL-2 - not a snowballs chance in hell
Ctelemetry is the big one for sure. the feedback doesn't have to be real world convincing. It just needs to tell you that the brakes are engaged and applying force or they aren't. As long as it's enough feedback to feel the actual engagement point, it would be enough. Taxiing warbirds is a PITA right now, or engaging the brakes unevenly after landing and suddenly veering towards one side of the runway.
NIve said before that I've thought about buying some different rubber balls/tennis balls/racquet balls to see if I can shove one of them in the hinge point of my Virpil pedals to see if I can get a more progressive brake feeling than that standard linear springs
TI guess you'd install FFB on your pedals so you wouldnt have to remove the spring between fixed wing and rotary every (bloody!) time?
Nthat is, by far, the biggest benefit, and worth every penny in its own rite IMHO. You also get dynamic forces with non-FBW aircraft, trim following and of course all of the other auxiliary effects too.
TI'm gonna sign up just for the spring replacement feature!
SYeah, this feature alone is tempting me to pick up another set of MFG’s. Anyone want to buy some Slaw’s?
MIt's just gonna be an adapter that runs the hall sensors to the VP Force board, not another axis of FFB
Athe cables are different
Ais there an adapter I can get or make for that:
Nthe two ports on the the VPforce board are analog inputs... presumably the hall sensors on the pedals are digital output sensors?
NIt's why I didnt explore trying to re-route the inputs on my virpil pedals..
NI'm also only %80 sure of what I'm even talking about.. maybe theres a way I dont know about
WYeah, the pot inputs on the Rhino board will accept the toe pedals from the MFGs, so the original board will be completely redundant
Nahh.. nice.. thats a big +
TBut then you would lose the ability to adjust FFB effects with a pot, right? Or can another board (I.e. the stick’s board) control effect strength globally?
TVia TelemFFB
Athey do sell a completely new set of sensor+cable
AI don't know if this is mechanically compatible with the V1 pedals https://mfg-sim.com/rudder-spare-parts/set-of-brake-axis-cables-2x-for-v23-pedals-yoinnovati-preassembled.html
MFG
Spare part for MFG Crosswind rudders V2/3
Aor is there some kind of a simple adapter I can make (I'm assuming the new board has the V2/3 style connector?)
AIn general it might be a good thing to mention about the difference especially if an adapter can't be provided
MThose sensors are almost certainly just a digital in/out. The connector in that case would likely just need to be swapped out to match the new style connector to tie in to the rhino pedal board
Mthe pedals will have their own control board, so this is completely separate from your stick and it's pot control
Sif you set your settings like this, you can do it all in one window. And then click on the logo JOYSTICK to switch
Ait would be helpful if I knew what those connector types were so could try to source some
Aor even more helpful if you could get an adapter with the kit
TYeah, I get that if you just use the pedals' control board, the brake signals would do what they had always done. I was asking about using the two analog inputs on the VPForce USB board for brakes.
MAs long as whatever sensor you're using is analogue, sure. Those sensor input points are just looking for a measurable shift in electrical signal (like a pot). If you want to do something more complex, you'd need to setup a shift register or breakout board, and code it to emulate a joystick that the Rhino board can run
T:). I get that too. My specific question was asking whether one could use the pot input on another VPForce board to globally apply FFB effects strength across two or more VPForce boards. So if I used the two analog inputs on my FFB pedals for brake signals, could I use the pot on my stick VPForce board to adjust force strength on the pedals.
MLike via a hardware link? You could wire the pot to both boards via mutual connections as long as the pot has the throughput to send signal to both. That would be a super annoying wiring setup though. In software, that should be pretty easy though
TIn software.
DJust a quick, general question. I have a TM F-18 grip in the Rhino…. It feels like something is loose in the grip itself, near the base the grip has a tiny, clicking movement. It is not noticeable when going side to sides only fore and aft, right near where the twist collar is. Anyone know how I should tighten it up?
MRemove the grip, and repeat the motions with it disconnected, see if anything moves that shouldn't. There's not a lot going on in the base area. Maybe the grounding screw came loose? You can crack the shell and see if anything is loose in it. The TM hornet is much more forgiving than the viper as far as springs and stuff flying out at you
DThat is what I thought, there is not a lot going on in that area of the grip. Thanks, I will try that.
PAmazing addition. Slaw RX Viper V3 next please!
II went from 36th to 6th today after I paid my invoice. This is just after I went from like 80 something to 40 something. Is that just all the people who passed up their reservation?
MHeck yea. I also jumped after paying my invoice. 4 to go!
SSo, I added my name into the hat for the rudder FFB conversion kits, how do I view the list for that?
MIt's pretty common on Warthog/Cougar for the tailstock to get a little loose. One of the screws is accessible from outside but the other is inside so it needs to be opened up to tighten it and I can see they carried this design over to the F18 grip.
DThanks!! I shall take a look.
B