I guess you'd install FFB on your pedals so you wouldnt have to remove the spring between fixed wing
I guess you'd install FFB on your pedals so you wouldnt have to remove the spring between fixed wing and rotary every (bloody!) time?
Nthat is, by far, the biggest benefit, and worth every penny in its own rite IMHO. You also get dynamic forces with non-FBW aircraft, trim following and of course all of the other auxiliary effects too.
TI'm gonna sign up just for the spring replacement feature!
SYeah, this feature alone is tempting me to pick up another set of MFG’s. Anyone want to buy some Slaw’s?
MIt's just gonna be an adapter that runs the hall sensors to the VP Force board, not another axis of FFB
Athe cables are different
Ais there an adapter I can get or make for that:
Nthe two ports on the the VPforce board are analog inputs... presumably the hall sensors on the pedals are digital output sensors?
NIt's why I didnt explore trying to re-route the inputs on my virpil pedals..
NI'm also only %80 sure of what I'm even talking about.. maybe theres a way I dont know about
WYeah, the pot inputs on the Rhino board will accept the toe pedals from the MFGs, so the original board will be completely redundant
Nahh.. nice.. thats a big +
TBut then you would lose the ability to adjust FFB effects with a pot, right? Or can another board (I.e. the stick’s board) control effect strength globally?
TVia TelemFFB
Athey do sell a completely new set of sensor+cable
AI don't know if this is mechanically compatible with the V1 pedals https://mfg-sim.com/rudder-spare-parts/set-of-brake-axis-cables-2x-for-v23-pedals-yoinnovati-preassembled.html
MFG
Spare part for MFG Crosswind rudders V2/3
Aor is there some kind of a simple adapter I can make (I'm assuming the new board has the V2/3 style connector?)
AIn general it might be a good thing to mention about the difference especially if an adapter can't be provided
MThose sensors are almost certainly just a digital in/out. The connector in that case would likely just need to be swapped out to match the new style connector to tie in to the rhino pedal board
Mthe pedals will have their own control board, so this is completely separate from your stick and it's pot control
Sif you set your settings like this, you can do it all in one window. And then click on the logo JOYSTICK to switch
Ait would be helpful if I knew what those connector types were so could try to source some
Aor even more helpful if you could get an adapter with the kit
TYeah, I get that if you just use the pedals' control board, the brake signals would do what they had always done. I was asking about using the two analog inputs on the VPForce USB board for brakes.
MAs long as whatever sensor you're using is analogue, sure. Those sensor input points are just looking for a measurable shift in electrical signal (like a pot). If you want to do something more complex, you'd need to setup a shift register or breakout board, and code it to emulate a joystick that the Rhino board can run
T:). I get that too. My specific question was asking whether one could use the pot input on another VPForce board to globally apply FFB effects strength across two or more VPForce boards. So if I used the two analog inputs on my FFB pedals for brake signals, could I use the pot on my stick VPForce board to adjust force strength on the pedals.
MLike via a hardware link? You could wire the pot to both boards via mutual connections as long as the pot has the throughput to send signal to both. That would be a super annoying wiring setup though. In software, that should be pretty easy though
TIn software.
DJust a quick, general question. I have a TM F-18 grip in the Rhino…. It feels like something is loose in the grip itself, near the base the grip has a tiny, clicking movement. It is not noticeable when going side to sides only fore and aft, right near where the twist collar is. Anyone know how I should tighten it up?
MRemove the grip, and repeat the motions with it disconnected, see if anything moves that shouldn't. There's not a lot going on in the base area. Maybe the grounding screw came loose? You can crack the shell and see if anything is loose in it. The TM hornet is much more forgiving than the viper as far as springs and stuff flying out at you
DThat is what I thought, there is not a lot going on in that area of the grip. Thanks, I will try that.
PAmazing addition. Slaw RX Viper V3 next please!
II went from 36th to 6th today after I paid my invoice. This is just after I went from like 80 something to 40 something. Is that just all the people who passed up their reservation?
MHeck yea. I also jumped after paying my invoice. 4 to go!
SSo, I added my name into the hat for the rudder FFB conversion kits, how do I view the list for that?
MIt's pretty common on Warthog/Cougar for the tailstock to get a little loose. One of the screws is accessible from outside but the other is inside so it needs to be opened up to tighten it and I can see they carried this design over to the F18 grip.
DThanks!! I shall take a look.
B
Cpretty crazy that Walmis has already cranked out 70 Rhinos since I got mine. He's really ramped up the production big time!
Byea i originally figured september at the rate it was going earlier
Bi was originally assigned #618
B6 month wait for me
II was initially assigned 638, now I’m 475
II’m right behind Bozo
SNext 4 gang assemble (am behind ice) 
SOh damn crosswind preorder? Alllllmost tempted
BThis makes me want to ask, have any of you changed the trim button on the TM F18 grip for an Otto Controls one? If so, how hard was it and is it worth the hassle?
V:package: 
RHINO #0470 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0470 Has Shipped!SLets go boooozoooo
V:package: 
RHINO #0471 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0471 Has Shipped!SLets go iiiiice