didnt have the chance yet but: in a 2 man chopper as a cpg/copilot with the pilot in control will th
didnt have the chance yet but: in a 2 man chopper as a cpg/copilot with the pilot in control will the stick move in FFB?
CAnd that software only works for Rhino right? Is there a way to get it working with the Brunner until my name is drawn on the wait list
FNope, thats the SAS following number481 mentioned
FAt least i think thats what its called, i know that what youre talking about doesnt exist for dcs
COh I don't care about auto pilot crap
CI want all that environmental feedback lol
SCThis may have just became my favorite discord server
C
Swithout counterspring flying the fulcrum the AP/stick couldnt keep up really it just oscillated like 30-40° left and then 30-40° right never finding the center with counterspring it seems to work
FAFAIK no, but if youre in somewhat of a hurry theres always the diy route
COh I am not computer savvy enough for all that. Maybe I can find a fine chap in this community to help a brother out lol
CTrade some aviation challenge coins or something
FDont need computer knowledge at all
FWorst i had to do was stick the board somewhere and plug in the wires correctly
FAlso theres a kit with guide here somewhere
F1 or more i dunno
FDIY also gives you the option of even stronger motors so you can really get a workout
CMaybe I can pay someone to build it for me lol@
FWhats the height of that extension by the way?
FCause the rhino is recommended with a max of 200mm, though the rhino itself is also raised from the center axis giving it the feel of a 100mm extension by itself
FI myself am running a 500mm distance between axis and stick with the strongest motors and those are more than enough, i think I turned em down to 60% strength or so
CI don't remember the exact measurements, but I can work with it since I know how to weld. I fabricated my entire collective mount because it was just to long to work well with my seat
SWhich F14 model in MSFS has better (Telem)FFB support? I suppose Heatblur's?
V:package: 
RHINO #0490 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0490 Has Shipped!V:package: 
RHINO #0492 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0492 Has Shipped!V:package: 
RHINO #0491 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0491 Has Shipped!V:package: RHINO #0493 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0493 Has Shipped!SWooow walmis an co going ham with production
S
MHmm, interesting....perhaps someone here who knows can confirm? I did wonder why some changes did not result in much difference......
BAnyone know what the “Machined Aluminum Grip Mount Upgrade for Rhino Anodized Black” is? It’s listed as an accessory. Is the standard grip mount 3D printed?
FYeah, standard mount is 3d printed. If you often change grips the aluminium one probably is to be preferred
SSince when is that available? :surprised:
VThink this is recent, I'm also surprised. Will be picking up one soon as I've already cut some "extra" threads on mine when I connected Virpil grip 
CYes, I‘d be interested as well.
V:package: RHINO #0494 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0494 Has Shipped!
SYeah will likely order one if i ever break/wearout the 3D printed one mounted by default
PI’m Interested too
Sthanks for the info, I'm interested in that too. probably will wait a little till I can consolidate it with another order.
THonestly if you don’t want to DIY just jump in the list and pay Walmis!
It’s for sure he’s the one who’s built the most and even though it may be some huge number of units ahead of you.. Not everyone buys when the number is called so there are a lot of folks who drop out and that allows you to move on up.
I’d say just jump on the list because it’s no pressure to buy until they call your number.
So yeah I’d just be patient.
AFTER you added the cost of 3D printing and the other “extra’s”.. the DIY still cost about 65% of the original anyway.
It’s not that much cheaper but cheaper enough if you did it yourself.
If you built it for sale… you’d only break even same as walmis.
I don’t actually see him getting rich off this he’s doing the community it’s a solid imho
It’s for sure he’s the one who’s built the most and even though it may be some huge number of units ahead of you.. Not everyone buys when the number is called so there are a lot of folks who drop out and that allows you to move on up.
I’d say just jump on the list because it’s no pressure to buy until they call your number.
So yeah I’d just be patient.
AFTER you added the cost of 3D printing and the other “extra’s”.. the DIY still cost about 65% of the original anyway.
It’s not that much cheaper but cheaper enough if you did it yourself.
If you built it for sale… you’d only break even same as walmis.
I don’t actually see him getting rich off this he’s doing the community it’s a solid imho
TBrand new pre built.. 800euro from walmis (plus ship)
DIY is 300 for the kit (plus ship). 50-75 for the extra parts like bolts, nuts, washer, etc. So near 400 just in parts (or about 50% so far)
Now calculate the amount of spool and run time for the prints.
IF you only buy spool (and run your printers free off like solar or some stuff).. okay add that cost.
Now pay yourself $1 for assembly, set up, head aches, etc..
And it’s easily 60%-70% of the cost of just buying it brand new.
The advantage (to me personally) is that when you DIY you get this feeling of accomplishment that can’t be replaced or replicated.
Yes I was a pilot irl but now my real job is Dad.
Showing my kids some cool thing I bought isn’t nearly as cool as saying hey guys look at what Daddy BUILT
.
I want them to be inspired to look inside things, to build things for themselves in the future..
So for me I actually LOVE the kit, even more so than the wonderful builds you guys post.
Not because of what it is… but for what it offers (and the ways it can inspire the next generation of builders).
DIY is 300 for the kit (plus ship). 50-75 for the extra parts like bolts, nuts, washer, etc. So near 400 just in parts (or about 50% so far)
Now calculate the amount of spool and run time for the prints.
IF you only buy spool (and run your printers free off like solar or some stuff).. okay add that cost.
Now pay yourself $1 for assembly, set up, head aches, etc..
And it’s easily 60%-70% of the cost of just buying it brand new.
The advantage (to me personally) is that when you DIY you get this feeling of accomplishment that can’t be replaced or replicated.
Yes I was a pilot irl but now my real job is Dad.
Showing my kids some cool thing I bought isn’t nearly as cool as saying hey guys look at what Daddy BUILT
.I want them to be inspired to look inside things, to build things for themselves in the future..
So for me I actually LOVE the kit, even more so than the wonderful builds you guys post.
Not because of what it is… but for what it offers (and the ways it can inspire the next generation of builders).
Fif you 3d print the casing you might as well have to consider energy costs as well 
VHi, have you found a good mounting solution for GT1 EVO?
MI just finished a DIY, and you are 100% correct. I didn't shop for the cheapest BOM items (Amazon for ease and fast shipping), but all in with filament (2+ 1kg rolls), an adequate laptop AC adapter, etc, I saved maybe $200 (not counting labor) at best, and many months of wait time. I already have a couple 3d printers, so I didn't have that cost to worry about.
I am still on the wait list (added myself earlier this month), and will most likely get an officially built unit when my time comes. The tech is so amazing that having a spare is worth it to me. I might even print a second set of parts for a friend since I have nearly 80% of the BOM (screws, nuts, bearings) leftover from my orders.
I am still on the wait list (added myself earlier this month), and will most likely get an officially built unit when my time comes. The tech is so amazing that having a spare is worth it to me. I might even print a second set of parts for a friend since I have nearly 80% of the BOM (screws, nuts, bearings) leftover from my orders.
TThat’s really great man.
Quick question.. Can I, errr, be your friend?
I’m about to buy a 3D printer for this project specifically which is a rabbit hole of its own hahahaha
Anyway it’s the labor of love I guess right?
Quick question.. Can I, errr, be your friend?
I’m about to buy a 3D printer for this project specifically which is a rabbit hole of its own hahahaha
Anyway it’s the labor of love I guess right?
FFYI if you don't want any hassle and just want it to print, buy a Bambu printer
FHad a p1s for like 2/3 months now and it's been close to flawless, only times it fd up is when I designed/setup something very wrong
MI have the Bambu X1C after owning/modding Creality printers for years. Bambu's are literally up and running in 30 minutes after unboxing, and that includes firmware updates and auto calibrations. On top of that they are blazingly fast compared to bed slingers
You don't have to climb the steep learning curve of printer tuning/tweaking to get good/perfect results with Bambu. As close to a home appliance as you can get. I have weeks/months and several hundred dollars invested in upgrading an Ender 5 Pro and CR-10 to get the print quality I wanted. It was worth it as a hobbyist, and I learned a lot along the way. After getting the X1, they both collect dust unless I need to print something larger than the X1s build volume on the CR-10.
You don't have to climb the steep learning curve of printer tuning/tweaking to get good/perfect results with Bambu. As close to a home appliance as you can get. I have weeks/months and several hundred dollars invested in upgrading an Ender 5 Pro and CR-10 to get the print quality I wanted. It was worth it as a hobbyist, and I learned a lot along the way. After getting the X1, they both collect dust unless I need to print something larger than the X1s build volume on the CR-10.
TYou’re the second person who suggested the X1 so I may have to look into it.. I was told it’s pricey so be ready but yeah I would prefer the buy once cry once over the endless tinkering and upgrading of the low and mid tier models.
FTbh if you dont need to print special materials like carbon fibre reinforced filament you can get by with a p1s which is close to half the cost