See I fly it a LOT, but I just got FFB and mount set up last night lol. HB states it is dynamic and
See I fly it a LOT, but I just got FFB and mount set up last night lol. HB states it is dynamic and modeled so I think I’m doing something wrong lol
AAnd any idea what's the estimate cost if I were to buy parts and 3d print the rest at a friend?
NOther seasoned Rhino owners who fly it often could probably tell you more what to expect, but it doesn't look like the actual spring force is dynamic at all. It is always
4096
MF14 doesn't have dynamic forces IRL. F4 control system is quite unusual, at least among other jets in DCS.
MThe Harrier would also be like that if Razbam implemented Q-feel, but they didn't.
SIsn’t the stick force based on the amount of Gs being pulled?
SFrom a bobweight. I’m not sure if that’s modeled though
MBobweights are a different thing, and not simulated in dcs until f4.
MTbh i don't think the effect of bobweights translates well to our 1g desktop sim environment. I mean in general. But you can add that effect through telemffb if you want.
NI actually like the bobweight effect on the F-4.. it feels better to me than what we do in TelemFFB with the constant force "g effect". They are using the spring center offset to achieve the same effect. It is too sensitive around 1G though which gives a weird sensation of the stick forces changing with minimal control input. They need to add some non-linear component to the calculation or add some dampening to the calculation or something.
SCool, I haven’t set up telemffb yet. I know telem can be used to set up vibration and cool effects like that. Can it be used to add more spring tension dynamically? If not what are some good settings to use to get close to the RL F-14 stick?
BDon't those settings depend on what you have set in Configurator? E.g. I have Master Gain set to 50%; I haven't touched it in months. My understanding is that that, and all other settings in that app, are what TelemFFB can only further scale down (not up). So your numbers might not work for me if you have different Configurator settings than someone else.
CYou should feel the trimmed/center position in the F14 with FFB is very forward of normal center.
SYea I noticed, why is that??
CIt’s how the real center position is. If you look in the cockpit stick, you’ll see it that way
CI just spent some time really re-doingg my stick Balance Spring, and then set the F4 to 200/200 gain in-game and have a slight "Sticky" Damper and Inertia in the VPForce software, and it's was a lot smoother in freeflight than before. There's still some weirdness wobble in slight trim dives and I don't know if that's the F4 or me but overall a lot better for me.
SI have a 24V 16.7A power supply from a 3d printer that i was throwing away would this be enough to power the 2 57blf03 motors or do i need something stronger?
WYou could power 2 Rhinos with that 
RWord on MFGs?
V:package: 
RHINO #0548 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0548 Has Shipped!
TFirst and foremost we never DIY when the budget exceed what we can buy. That’s foolish. So let’s look at the real cost of a real Rhino. (800 euro or so with some tax, fees, duty, and then some shipping… so maybe let’s say 1000 to walk it in your door?)
Now let’s add the cost of a DIY unit and compare those to see if it’s a good option for you personally.
let’s take into account the base cost of the DIY motor kit from VPforce is like 300 euro so like 350 (after shipping).
Now let’s go ahead and start from that 350 and see our total costs.
The estimated cost of a DIY Rhino varies due to shipping and part availability by region but the best way to find out is to go to the GitHub page.
Open the Assembly page.
Go to page 2 and begin adding everything from the BOM into an Amazon “Wish list” or a “cart”. That helps keep it saved in one spot for you to look back at when needed.
“Just add all the belts and bits and bobs and screws and washers and knobs” until you’ve got it all down on a list.
From there you can cross check the prices from local places or online places like Digikey, etc.
Add that cost to the original 350 to get our total so far and move to the shell.
You can make the shell from anything you like.. There are CAD files if you want to fabricate it from aluminum or wood and there are STL for those who want to 3D print.
There are also some very very crafty individuals here who’s made near complete DIY set ups.
IF you have friends to help or maybe a family member with a 3d printer? Or even a maker space at a local university/etc? it’s going to be a lot easier to get this project started.
I’m guessing the price for DIY is under $600 (350 for motors, 70-100 at Amazon for parts, 50-100 for a power supply..)
BUT that assumes you can fabricate, 3d print, or create the shell…
IF you must buy a 3D printer and print it yourself..
That pushes the costs too high and it’s cheaper to Buy than DIY.
(UNLESS YOU WANTED A PRINTER ANYWAY)
Now let’s add the cost of a DIY unit and compare those to see if it’s a good option for you personally.
let’s take into account the base cost of the DIY motor kit from VPforce is like 300 euro so like 350 (after shipping).
Now let’s go ahead and start from that 350 and see our total costs.
The estimated cost of a DIY Rhino varies due to shipping and part availability by region but the best way to find out is to go to the GitHub page.
Open the Assembly page.
Go to page 2 and begin adding everything from the BOM into an Amazon “Wish list” or a “cart”. That helps keep it saved in one spot for you to look back at when needed.
“Just add all the belts and bits and bobs and screws and washers and knobs” until you’ve got it all down on a list.
From there you can cross check the prices from local places or online places like Digikey, etc.
Add that cost to the original 350 to get our total so far and move to the shell.
You can make the shell from anything you like.. There are CAD files if you want to fabricate it from aluminum or wood and there are STL for those who want to 3D print.
There are also some very very crafty individuals here who’s made near complete DIY set ups.
IF you have friends to help or maybe a family member with a 3d printer? Or even a maker space at a local university/etc? it’s going to be a lot easier to get this project started.
I’m guessing the price for DIY is under $600 (350 for motors, 70-100 at Amazon for parts, 50-100 for a power supply..)
BUT that assumes you can fabricate, 3d print, or create the shell…
IF you must buy a 3D printer and print it yourself..
That pushes the costs too high and it’s cheaper to Buy than DIY.
(UNLESS YOU WANTED A PRINTER ANYWAY)
TOfficially the DIY runs on 20v 9amp but within the software you can set it to your specific power supply so you’ll be golden!
TI think pre the days of FBW the assumption was that when a plane is under normal (in flight) conditions it’s actually super tail heavy at neutral stick and G forces make it worse.
So by adding an artificial forward stance it would be closer to a comfortable neutral while under load.
It would be interesting to hear from someone who was a Tomcat pilot but also maybe someone who worked maintenance side…
Man did those guys know some stuff about the birds
So by adding an artificial forward stance it would be closer to a comfortable neutral while under load.
It would be interesting to hear from someone who was a Tomcat pilot but also maybe someone who worked maintenance side…
Man did those guys know some stuff about the birds
TNot sure if it’s for the same reasoning but the Blue Angles fly with an artificial pull bar set at 40lbs forward.
So those sticks are artificially held at 40lbs forward at all times (unlike the fleet models where they use the FBW computers… pretty sure the Blues have a modified FCS)
So those sticks are artificially held at 40lbs forward at all times (unlike the fleet models where they use the FBW computers… pretty sure the Blues have a modified FCS)
THere’s a cool video where one of the captains explains it.
Super cool stuff to see inside the Echo with all the new screens and stuff
Anyway yeah… 40lbs forward. And stick sits in a stance similar to the F14 irl with that pull. Watch it and see it reposition itself.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=k3T3At0ksw0
Super cool stuff to see inside the Echo with all the new screens and stuff
Anyway yeah… 40lbs forward. And stick sits in a stance similar to the F14 irl with that pull. Watch it and see it reposition itself.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=k3T3At0ksw0
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TOh and I should also note:
I do not fly the Tomcat so I can’t help you hunt this specific issue or help with the software fixes that may exist BUT I know the growler/hornet so this is what made me think of why they did that to the F14 (before the days of true fly by wire tech).
Would love to hear from the maintenance or some engineer or some whatever about it… cool interesting stuff for sure
I do not fly the Tomcat so I can’t help you hunt this specific issue or help with the software fixes that may exist BUT I know the growler/hornet so this is what made me think of why they did that to the F14 (before the days of true fly by wire tech).
Would love to hear from the maintenance or some engineer or some whatever about it… cool interesting stuff for sure
V:package: 
RHINO #0550 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0550 Has Shipped!SThanks for the explanation! That makes a lot of sense now
RIdk about 14, but for normal fixed wing aircraft I think most CoGs are preferred more forward than aft. Makes the aircraft more naturally stable, and want to correct itself when stick released
Vdoes anyone have a good link or tips for a good FFB setup for the F4 yet? i see a few posts here and there but was curious what the consensus was?
KI haven't flown in a long time. Does the F4 module play well with the VPForce?
VGuys is the bot off?
TBeing a brand new release there are no universally agreed upon settings so far as I’ve seen.
It’s basically jump in and test it!
Happy flying!
It’s basically jump in and test it!
Happy flying!
CVPForce is working great, but the F4 has a new FFB/stick method that appears to be taking some time to dial in and get used to.
MSo how did u setup in the telem software?(using the base jet profile or adapting an existing planes profile?)
CThe balance spring is in the base VPForce software. I haven’t done TelemFFB yet
MOk - but did u manage to get it working without the. Telem software?
NWhat is it you are trying to accomplish?
WJust got done flying it for the first time. What an awesome experience and product
WThere’s no going back from FFB once you’ve tried it.
Ohow do i purchase the products?
WGotta get on the waiting list
M❓faq
TFacts… BIG FACTS
Finally took a test flight with her and she’s absolutely everything I wanted her to be plus some..
(And this was at 50% gain for testing…)
It’s seriously something special to watch the nose dip and react to the G force effects just like real life..
Feeling more and more pressure as you pull back on the stick or dive forwards and those G’s compress..
It’s the magic of software and set up and of course the Rhino that makes it all happen but that’s why the Rhino is the top dog imho.
The app and the config make the magic and the hardware of the Rhino bring the simulation closer to reality than it’s ever been.
I’ll echo again what you’ve said and add my own.
You cannot go back from FFB.
It’s an experience that burns into your memory and that’s impossible to ignore or to forget.
This was what it was like irl.. feeling the pressure of the stick or the balance of the yolk is a REAL feeling that up until now I didn’t think was possible for sim.
So yeah Thanks again to Walmis and Sub and 481 and everyone who helped bring this project to the masses.
Feels like I’m preaching to the choir here though because you guys already know
Finally took a test flight with her and she’s absolutely everything I wanted her to be plus some..
(And this was at 50% gain for testing…)
It’s seriously something special to watch the nose dip and react to the G force effects just like real life..
Feeling more and more pressure as you pull back on the stick or dive forwards and those G’s compress..
It’s the magic of software and set up and of course the Rhino that makes it all happen but that’s why the Rhino is the top dog imho.
The app and the config make the magic and the hardware of the Rhino bring the simulation closer to reality than it’s ever been.
I’ll echo again what you’ve said and add my own.
You cannot go back from FFB.
It’s an experience that burns into your memory and that’s impossible to ignore or to forget.
This was what it was like irl.. feeling the pressure of the stick or the balance of the yolk is a REAL feeling that up until now I didn’t think was possible for sim.
So yeah Thanks again to Walmis and Sub and 481 and everyone who helped bring this project to the masses.
Feels like I’m preaching to the choir here though because you guys already know
TThat memory I describe is already burned into your minds so yeah… There is no going back from FFB.
LI'm mostly flying helicopters in DCS. When I hit the trim button for the first time and felt how stick unloaded shifting into the new center... I had read a lot about how it works, but feeling it was an eye-opener. To me, FFB is second only to VR, in how something can change sim experience.
DCan you post your settings?
WI don’t know, i think FFB is more critical than VR IMO. My wife tried the FFB stick with the F-4 and she just flew around for 30 minutes with a smirk on her face. Didn’t get that reaction with VR
WThen again, I’ve never used high end VR with great visual clarity
WYeah, I’m going have to check that out soon.