Hmm, is it the shaft itself or the small pin that's the issue?
Hmm, is it the shaft itself or the small pin that's the issue?
LHow can I fix this behavior? This is in dcs with the apache. I hold trim release and move the stick, but the center does not remain where the stick is physically and when I release the trim button the stick moves back to a different "center" than where it should be
Nget rid of your axis curves in DCS
LThanks, forgot I had put any in
Neveryone does 
DThe shaft itself. Even on the vkb extension there is a little bit of resistance compared to the gunfighter, but it feels like rubbery resistance and goes down fairly easy. But on the VPFORCE extension grip it takes more force than I can put on it. Only way was with a hammer
FIs it normal? I use spring gain 20% with Max current 30A. So when full draw, axis current should show ~6A. But full aft shows 6.6~6.7A whereas full fwd, left and right shows ~6A
WYeah, that's normal. Anticogging takes some current
FOh I see thanks!
Atrying to open telemffb
NGenerally caused by one of two things.
- 1: Windows Defender or other AV ate some files due to false positive malware detection
- 2: You accidentally copied the exe out of the folder rather than creating a shortcut
HSpeaking of currents, I have a question about the motors: If I noticed correctly the fan activates when either motor (usually the pitch) reaches 50 C and turns of when under 45 C give or take, but I wonder what would be the critical temperature for the motors before they take damage? I can’t find any specs about it. 60, 70, 80 C…. when will they take damage?
I’m asking, 1. out of curiosity and 2. because I will use the same motor and pcb in my pedals-mod, but without a cooler. I assume it will work out, but who knows….. (btw. when will the current limiter set in?)
I’m asking, 1. out of curiosity and 2. because I will use the same motor and pcb in my pedals-mod, but without a cooler. I assume it will work out, but who knows….. (btw. when will the current limiter set in?)
WI guess the limiting factor would be the motor's magnet curie temperature, at which they start to demagnetize, which is unknown. But anyhow the motors are thermally limited, similarly how GPUs self limit to maintain a stable max temp.
AI redownloaded via the link in telem ffb rather than GitHub then updated and it worked. 
lol I was trying to run inside the folder but it works now
lol I was trying to run inside the folder but it works now
Shey so my red power interrupt button came loose and now spins freely
Show can i tighten it down? do i need to rip the wheels off to pull the top cover?
SI ended up doing just that. Is there a way to pull the red part off the button? I tignened it down, but idk if it'll hold long term
NFor future ,you should be able to get to the nut with a pair of needle nose pliers just by removing the front panel.
VSo, soon to get my order thingy. Im in the processing stage, has anyone used the base with a thrustmaster warthog OG grip? I'm worried about the metal thing breaking. What sticks are you guys using? Sorry if its the wrong channel
SGod that would have been way smarter. i had to pull both big wheels off and everything going throgh the top lol
Sill keep that in mind next time it gets loose
FI think anticogging for y axis is not working perfectly. I could feel minute bump at a center of y axis movement(x axis is perfectly smooth). Can it be caused by a belt is too tight?
FOr just defect of motor?
FWhen the power turned off, I can feel much stronger cogging than x axis's
LFWIW I had a similar situation which was solved by removing 20 cm extension + VKB adapter and installing a 10 cm extension. Never found out which one caused it. The bump/noise was also only in Y axis like in your case. Could be something completely different though and idk whether you are even using an extension or adapter.
WYeah, when the belt is too tight it will introduce some cogging-like feel. You can verify however how the small pulley spins with the belt removed.
F@Fourgrinder Oh I don't use any extension and adapter 
anyway thank you for your case
anyway thank you for your caseF@walmis Ok I'll try, thank you!
TKeep in mind if you wanted to mount the Rhino the other way you can also rotate the stop button this way so it’s still facing you and saying “stop” or whatever.
All you do after that is Invert the Axis in the Vpconfig software (NOT in games!)
All you do after that is Invert the Axis in the Vpconfig software (NOT in games!)
FI used the Rhino with the TM F-16/Warthog grip for a while but changed to a Virpil Constellation rather quick.
It works but the Warthog isn't just my cup of tea. Way to heavy and stiff feeling. That is just personal preference though.
It works well and keeps its balance with decent spring settings.
It works but the Warthog isn't just my cup of tea. Way to heavy and stiff feeling. That is just personal preference though.
It works well and keeps its balance with decent spring settings.
WAnyone know if you can use Virpil Alpha thumb stick as buttons in each direction? There was a way to do that in Virpil Software - any ideas on how to mimic that in the VPForce config?
Fidentify the HAT number in the Vpforce tool and then click it in "Hats as buttons"
WAwesome, thanks boss - must have missed that.
DHey, i'm having trouble sending the '!info emailadress' message to the bot, am i missing something?
Fwhat is the bot responding if you have trouble then?
Fworking for me
L@walmis, I had a billing issue (fraud screening). I've cleared the issue, can you DM to figure out next steps?
WHi, looks like payment went through fine. So all looks good!
HCheck if the motor pulley is firmly tightened on the axis. I forgot to loctide it properly and it came loose. It didn’t slip completely, but it had play which lead to a „cogging“ feel around the middle position.
HI‘m using a TM metal grip. So far, all is fine. I‘m planning to switch to a Virpil just for length reasons though.
LOkay thank you! If anything comes up, let me know. Happy to assist however I can, thx you for making these sticks! I've been on the list for almost a year lol
WYou’re in for a great experience. I can’t imagine going back to a spring based stick
F@Hiob oh I'll look at that also thank you
SHello mates. With what filament you print the gimbal? and how much infill usually use ?
MHi, in relation to the Heatblur Phantom.....I am interested in introducing a bit less sensitivity , to help out in refueling....with a "normal" stick, this is easily done by introducing some curve to teh axis, however, obviously, this is not good practice with an FFB stick. Is there a way within the config file options to emulate this effect at all? Thank you.
HI got my parts pre-printed from Winger. He used CF-PETG iirc. However out of curiosity and for DIY test purposes I printed a gimbal half from regular PETG myself and it seems plenty strong enough.
HHowever. The week link isn’t the gimbal (I think). but the central hub/gimbal-stick-connector.
HI still think it can be printed from PETG, but you need to think about layer orientation.
H(Also from some from youtubers testing CF enforced filament isn’t necessarily stronger in bending breaks - but I never tested that myself)
SI bought a couple of VP shift registers. Should the switch/buttons be connected to negative or positive?
WButtons should be pulled to GND when pressed, so negative