Honestly, they all have a unique feel which is awesome. The F-4E is fantastic as it was deisgned wit
Honestly, they all have a unique feel which is awesome. The F-4E is fantastic as it was deisgned with force feedback in mind.
IHelicopters are some of my favorite as well.
IThe F-4E really shines as a great one for fixed wing though.
DComments like these since I am addicted to the F4 make me sure to wait out on the Rhino however long it takes!
SYou're addicted to the F-4? I wouldn't have known (highly sarcastic, lookin at you Robin Olds)
TWarbirds as well
Nothing like that centrifugal force on take off (old school you neutralize with hard rudder until you get moving)
The Rhino shines on all modules..
You can’t even go back to flying the Hornet without the rumble effects it feels like a dead stick when you grab them and they aren’t grabbing you back (so to speak)
So the Rhino changes the game for Warbirds up to the 70’s era or so
Nothing like that centrifugal force on take off (old school you neutralize with hard rudder until you get moving)
The Rhino shines on all modules..
You can’t even go back to flying the Hornet without the rumble effects it feels like a dead stick when you grab them and they aren’t grabbing you back (so to speak)
So the Rhino changes the game for Warbirds up to the 70’s era or so
TI do have the Viper but I’ve been so busy building and DIY and the next thing and the next that I haven’t even had the seat time to really see what the Rhino can do for modern (FBW).
The Telem still works so you can get gunfire effects and all that randomized stuff I assume (even though the real life f16 is the sense stick)
The Telem still works so you can get gunfire effects and all that randomized stuff I assume (even though the real life f16 is the sense stick)
TSo really.. Rhino is the best thing even for some space game that isn’t even pushing effects you can set it to push effects… like maybe it can do explosions or warp or who knows… I have no idea but it’s THAT crazy and capable
TSo worst comes to worst… it’s the absolute smoothest gimbal you could ever buy….
Instead of measuring itself with pots… it actually measures rotations inside the motor
It’s soooooo damn smooth it’s like buttery soft movements that are sooo fluid it’s like real life hydrolic…
(That’s the anti cogging at work btw)
So honestly it’s the best “base” you can get.
The other bases have to change springs and profiles when for the Rhino you can do it all in the software…
So again.. even if you turn off every single FFB.. it’s the very best base you could buy
(And that’s because it’s totally NOT like the other bases)
Instead of measuring itself with pots… it actually measures rotations inside the motor
It’s soooooo damn smooth it’s like buttery soft movements that are sooo fluid it’s like real life hydrolic…
(That’s the anti cogging at work btw)
So honestly it’s the best “base” you can get.
The other bases have to change springs and profiles when for the Rhino you can do it all in the software…
So again.. even if you turn off every single FFB.. it’s the very best base you could buy
(And that’s because it’s totally NOT like the other bases)
S@walmis You gotta get @Touch_Of_Legend on your payroll for marketing 
TWhen you turn ON the FFB….
Now not only is her gimbal and sensors (by far) superior.
Now she talks back and hold tight… more than one person here has got bit back because she’s a rhino she don’t play lol
(Watch your junk)
Now not only is her gimbal and sensors (by far) superior.
Now she talks back and hold tight… more than one person here has got bit back because she’s a rhino she don’t play lol
(Watch your junk)
OAnyone in west or south wales want to earn some cash setting up my sim ?
I need the whole fucking thing sorted out.
I need the whole fucking thing sorted out.
TYeah bro I wish I could help.
You could also (should also) reach out to car sims folks local on FB or local.
Reason is because car sim folks are just as crazy and setting up “stuff” is basically the same.
You could also (should also) reach out to car sims folks local on FB or local.
Reason is because car sim folks are just as crazy and setting up “stuff” is basically the same.
TFor info we live in the USA so haha
OHow about a free holiday and £59 lol.
THahaha plus car sim folks also know about FFB. The top tier racing stuff is also FFB systems and hard hard core stuff apparently
DHahahha yeah, I know its hard to spot 
LIs there any harm in leaving the base powered on for long periods? Or should I always disable it when not in use?
II always turn mine off and unplug it after use because I am overly cautious. I'm always worried about somehow hitting the cable and breaking it off or damaging the port.
SIt shouldn't hurt if to be powered, but also won't hurt to be unpowered
TDue to the fact it can move when games start before you put your hand on the stick..
And can whack the end stops pretty hard
You should ALWAYS power down the unit with the Emergency Stop.
When powering up the unit grab and hold the stick steady so as to avoid it accidentally taking a hard smack against the end stops.
Mine has never done it.. my Rhino is tame like a puppy but I also never turn it above 60%
You can read stories of dudes who got whacked in the junk or whose sticks smack the tables or whatever is around.
So… Hold stick the whole time unless in game and on trim.
Hold stick while powering on the unit and hold the stick when you power it down.
No need to unplug as the emergency stop is a physical stop switch so the power is cut.
Unplugging is good practice and will extend the life of the PSU but it’s no big deal when using a real switch like the stop switches.
No amount of power can jump those switches so you good to go.
But yeah… hold it before you start and never ever leave the stop switch open.
Stop switch… now add HOTAS cover and she’s safe
And can whack the end stops pretty hard
You should ALWAYS power down the unit with the Emergency Stop.
When powering up the unit grab and hold the stick steady so as to avoid it accidentally taking a hard smack against the end stops.
Mine has never done it.. my Rhino is tame like a puppy but I also never turn it above 60%
You can read stories of dudes who got whacked in the junk or whose sticks smack the tables or whatever is around.
So… Hold stick the whole time unless in game and on trim.
Hold stick while powering on the unit and hold the stick when you power it down.
No need to unplug as the emergency stop is a physical stop switch so the power is cut.
Unplugging is good practice and will extend the life of the PSU but it’s no big deal when using a real switch like the stop switches.
No amount of power can jump those switches so you good to go.
But yeah… hold it before you start and never ever leave the stop switch open.
Stop switch… now add HOTAS cover and she’s safe
SI'm curious about the E stop killing power to EVERYTHING and not just the motor drivers
TWell technically the board is powered by the USB but the motors are what make the stick jump
So I should say the E stop kills all power to the motors but the unit can still be plugged in and mess with the software that’s the safest way to experiment with settings
That’s for keeping me honest
So I should say the E stop kills all power to the motors but the unit can still be plugged in and mess with the software that’s the safest way to experiment with settings
That’s for keeping me honest
TThe same ideas apply though..
Just be sure when you twist the stop switch and turn it on you’re holding the stick.
Otherwise… you might get whacked
Just be sure when you twist the stop switch and turn it on you’re holding the stick.
Otherwise… you might get whacked
SOh cool XD
Thanks for helping cover my chronic lack of research
Thanks for helping cover my chronic lack of research
TWe’re all just students of the game.
Here there are no masters so we all just do the best we can and pass as much info around as possible.
It’s A LOT of stuff that goes into the Rhino so don’t feel bad.
I’m constantly learning about features (whole freaking features) I didn’t know existed lol
Here there are no masters so we all just do the best we can and pass as much info around as possible.
It’s A LOT of stuff that goes into the Rhino so don’t feel bad.
I’m constantly learning about features (whole freaking features) I didn’t know existed lol
STLike… how did I not know that..
And it’s okay that’s what makes the hive mind so much stronger
And it’s okay that’s what makes the hive mind so much stronger
SI was a tiny bit worried how windows and DCS would handle the USB dropping out with the E stop. Glad to hear that doesn't happen
FI don't own a Rhino (yet), but several other (FFB) devices. I am using a power strip with individual switches for each socket so I can activate the main power (220V) for each device as needed and can also switch of the whole thing with the main switch of the power strip. Additionally I am using an USB hub with individual on/off switches for each port (Sabrent works very well for me). So I can power on and off each USB device easily for the configuration I want to use. And at the end of a session all can be powered off, so no unnecessary waste of energy and increased lifetime of all electronic parts.
FThanks @walmis for helping with fedex/customs clearance shenanigans! My Rhino has made it to it’s new home and getting installed today! Just in time to try it out on the new Kiowa in DCS. Very excited…
FMy stick’s C of G is rearwards due to the gooseneck shaft and heavy Warthog grip, meaning it naturally pulls back. I want to compensate for this so that for a loose helicopter cyclic I don’t have to counter the rearwards force with my hand, pushing forwards. I realise I can do this using the Spring setting, but this isn’t the loose feel I want. It also doesn’t centre it fully. What else can I do?
SLead and a hose clamp
(@FarFutureFox I had the Same issue and found a setting I think was called static rode or so thing similar that can adjust the center position for the weight and balance of your stick
F“Static rode”?? No idea what rode is. I’ll have a look in the manual… thanks!
SI assume they ment "mode". I too have heard about something like that: the software tries to compensate for the CoG without effecting the rest of the stick feel
CI use balance spring effect for this and adaptive centering on the spring effect
MMechanical counterbalance
T@Thadiun Okona adds weight and therefore inertia to the stick which is bad for motors and all 3d printed parts
MNope. Adds mass yea but the motors work less hard when sticks are mass balanced because they’re no longer constantly working to hold it up. Ff sticks dont tend to be used hands off so a little increase in mass is inconsequential.. it’s already fighting your hands lol
MIf they freely swung around (hands free) by design then yes adding weights would increase wear as you state
SExample- the steel slug on my collective. Without it, the tiny 57BLF01 set with balance spring would warm up pretty quickly
FYes, I use adaptive centering but it doesn’t work all the way.
FWith a counterweight, can the Rhino take the extra weight structurally? I get how the motors won’t be constantly in action, when balanced
WCheck the manual about balancing:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1YL5DLkiTxlaNx_zKHEYSs25PjmGtQ6_WZDk58_SGt8Y/edit#heading=h.9yc6t8idkb39
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1YL5DLkiTxlaNx_zKHEYSs25PjmGtQ6_WZDk58_SGt8Y/edit#heading=h.9yc6t8idkb39
Google Docs
VPforce RHINO FFB User Manual Version 0.7 (WIP) Table of Contents 1. Welcome 1 2. Getting Started 3 2.1. Technical Specifications 4 2.2. Physical Setup 5 2.2.1. The VKB Adapter 6 2.2.2. The WinWing Adapter 6 2.2.3. The RHINO Throw Limiter Adapters 7 2.3. Initial Connection and Updating th...
CThe main thing is balance spring effect which works for me.
FI'll test that now, thanks. The Static Force setting also sounds useful.
CRead the chapter balancing the grip in the manual. This might help you
RStatic force and balance spring really helped once tuned in. I usually start with center then use 4 separate extreme angles. Works great.
BI have the z-extension, so have more offset than your usual s-extension and use static force to 5% on the pitch(y?) axis centers it right up.
BA percent or two might be all you need with an s, depending how heavy your grip is of course.