TFirst choose CM2/3 stick. I’m sure the others work like the alpha with its LED’s (but the LED’s don’t work so far as I know)
After that you’ll have the option for the pinky paddle axis.
The axis for the pinky paddle has to be calibrated so click on that and calibrate and done.
Not sure what the DLC is so I’ll allow others to help with that.
After that you’ll have the option for the pinky paddle axis.
The axis for the pinky paddle has to be calibrated so click on that and calibrate and done.
Not sure what the DLC is so I’ll allow others to help with that.
Pwhat are the specific specs for the estop?
TAny creaking or noise or feel from the unit is most likely a loose or loosening screw.
A lot of folks find the screws that hold the grip connector onto the square metal tube can get a bit loose over time because of torsional stresses.
They lift up the leather boot and check the screws.
Also check the pulley screws and remember anything with belt drive will need maintenance eventually as belts either pull the rig in or the belts themselves slack over times.
So don’t forget to every so often check your belt tension.
Outside that those are the fixes for random squeaks, creeks, cricks, and/or wiggles and wobbles.
Good luck and keep up posted!
A lot of folks find the screws that hold the grip connector onto the square metal tube can get a bit loose over time because of torsional stresses.
They lift up the leather boot and check the screws.
Also check the pulley screws and remember anything with belt drive will need maintenance eventually as belts either pull the rig in or the belts themselves slack over times.
So don’t forget to every so often check your belt tension.
Outside that those are the fixes for random squeaks, creeks, cricks, and/or wiggles and wobbles.
Good luck and keep up posted!
PCopy that. I'll take a look under the boot and check the security of thr pulleys. Thanks for the input I'll let you know how it goes
RUnfortunately I have to cancel my pre-order at position 68. Where can I do that?
Fdm walmis
EHello, I hope someone can help me. The teleffb app stopped recognising when DCS is on, or when I'm in an airplane?
I deleted the line for telem in the export.lue in saved games, and the app copied the line back as expected.
any help apprciated!
I deleted the line for telem in the export.lue in saved games, and the app copied the line back as expected.
any help apprciated!
PIs there an easy/obvious way to tension the belts? I'm trying to troubleshoot my grainy roll axis and I'm not sure the best way to disassemble this.
PIf I can get this belt off I can at least determine if it's the drive or the pully/gear connected to the stick
NDid you recently install SimHaptic by chance?
If not, check the DCS logs for errors related to
If not, check the DCS logs for errors related to
TelemFFB.lua
PThank you. I believe I've identified the hang up. I looks/feels like the motor gear/pulley is rubbing against the case. I'm struggling to get a gap in there
ENot Simhaptic, but openkneeboard. I thought I had uninstalled it (because immediately telemffb stopped working), but as soon as I ctrl+f the log for telemffb, next line under that, was openkneeboard. I found the files in the hook folder. deleted those, and telmffb works again. Thanks for your help.
PI'm happy to report that as I suspected, I'm just dumb. I only saw the one set screw on the drive gear, when in fact there was two. Pulling that gear out a few hairs relieved the interference.
Ninteresting... I've used OpenKneeboard pretty extensively and have never had an issue with it interfering with TelemFFB or any other export script (simshaker, etc..).
RI did on 07.05. no response. Anyone else I can contact?
T@Number481 Did you recently install SimHaptic by chance?
I’m about to for my new Dayton base shakers, is there something I should watch out for?
I’m about to for my new Dayton base shakers, is there something I should watch out for?
NTheir first version with DCS support caused problems with many other apps (including TelemFFB) exporting data. Their latest version fixes it.
HMake sure, that the gears and belts don’t rub against something. E.g. your seat. You would waste hours of trouble shooting without a result….. ask me how I know…. 
BI tried to run Simracingstudio to run my wind fans but it immediatly causes my rhino to go limp
CSounds like it's stealing the telemetry and not sharing. I have found Telemffb is good at sharing. Other programs not so much.
BThankyou colonel, I found that you can set simracingstudio to forward telemetry and I found the necessary info in the vpconfig documentation and now it works. I have streamdeck set to open the canopy and turn on the fans with one button press and to close the canopy and turn off the fans with a other button., so after I land after a sweaty mig killing session I can open the canopy for a cool breeze.
CSounds like a good set up. Glad you were able to resolve
AI'm still having this problem and wondering if there's any chance of a fix soon? I believe it's probably software related, but when strong spring forces are applied, my pitch axis is not smooth on pullbpack, there's a spot where it's like the resistance changes a bit. I have no force compensation, i've tried playing around with different motor and psu currents, but it really doesn't seem to make a difference, maybe there's some other settings I am missing? but i often find this affect really distracting when flying with stronger spring forces 
RI tried again but I'm not able to send a dm to him due to his privacy settings. @walmis can you please tell me how I'm able to cancel my pre-order? Thanks
WDone, thanks. It's possible to cancel the preorder once you receive the purchase invite email too.
RThanks
HHave you made sure that the pulley is firmly connected to the motor axis?
Ayeah, i'm 99% sure it's a software thing around how it blends the forces when it hits the max level, it doesn't so much feel like something is popping out or skipping, but moreso like the resistance force changes
Ahere's a video that shows things a bit better, it does appear to reduce the effect a bit if i reduce max motor current, but doesn't completely get rid of it. another interesting thing i notice in the vpforce ui, is the pink arrow seems to jitter around where that point is that i feel the effect
NYour Ibus is maxing out at "max PSU current". I think if you increase that to 8 or 9 you will notice the flat spot in the force later into the pull.. However, I dont know what the safe max for that value is so I'd clear it with walmis first
Ayeah -- i feel like it's probably something related to how those different fields work together
Acan anyone else repro this with spring up to 100% and a pull like that?
Aor is this something unique to my setup
NYes. At 30/7 (motor/psu) I feel the force max out around %80-90 of travel and you can see the red force arrow fluctuating as it is bouncing off one or both of those values.
Ado you run at those values yourself? or did you just change to repro? also thanks for testing!
NMy normal profile is 28/9 (my psu is rated for 9.5A so I guess thats OK 
). I guess I do still feel a bit of a flattening at the extremes, but its actually hitting against
). I guess I do still feel a bit of a flattening at the extremes, but its actually hitting against curr_yare you running a custom PSU? or just the one that shipped with the rhino?
Nthe one it shipped with (19v 9.5A). My pedals PSU is 24V 10A.. wonder if it would feel any different with that PSU vs the standard one? How that all calculates out is beyond my electrical knowledge 
Aok yeah, i have the same power supply as you
Ainteresting you've been running quite higher values for PSU current
NI guess I've always felt the force flatten out at the extremities with high gain, but I guess its just never bothered me. With the type of flying I normally do, I almost never reach full excursion of the controls.
i can't seem to completely get rid of it. At PSU=9... with Motor=29, it hits the motor max first, with Motor=30, it hits PSU max.. maybe if there was more granularity to the motor current value you could tune it so they peak at the same time...
Speculation is fun when the smart guy (walmis) is sleeping
i can't seem to completely get rid of it. At PSU=9... with Motor=29, it hits the motor max first, with Motor=30, it hits PSU max.. maybe if there was more granularity to the motor current value you could tune it so they peak at the same time...
Speculation is fun when the smart guy (walmis) is sleeping
Ahaha -- so yeah, when flying helicopters and stuff, i never notice it because to your point, never at full limits with full spring force. I do notice it in the F14 a bunch because they do something where the spring forces are stronger than the default ones we have in configurator, so i def notice it a lot more there
Aand also in WW2 stuff, where you can often get into one or two circle fights
N30/9 feels pretty good to me. Not perfect, but better... but I don't know if I'm playing with fire 
(literally). Dropping the gain down to even %95 though seems to remove the flat spot completely and I honestly can't feel a difference in the max force applied.. just that its reached smoothly at full deflection instead of right before it. 
(literally). Dropping the gain down to even %95 though seems to remove the flat spot completely and I honestly can't feel a difference in the max force applied.. just that its reached smoothly at full deflection instead of right before it. Ayeah -- i did try messing with the max gain a bit, which did seem to help a bit, but yeah, hopefully there's some sort of firmware cleverness there that can negate any need for stuff like this (since i think ultimately in game forces can end up applying differently and still cause the issues -- i.e. the F14)
NIf you set the slider at %95. No game can ever exceed %95, it would be "commanded gain" * "slider gain".
Nwith no game running, its basically "effects tab spring %" * "slider gain"
AOh I see what you’re saying
AI was tinkering with gain a bit earlier to try to solve that
