I doubt that different belts or pulleys will solve the problem if I‘m honest.
I doubt that different belts or pulleys will solve the problem if I‘m honest.
Hsure it does…..?? you can set custom gain and strength curves in the configurator!
Nmaybe i'm just being optimistic here. But if it's not the belts or the pulley sizing on either end then that leaves me with 0 alternative explanations
Nunless it's to say that vpforce motors are not capable of running up to even 60% of max spring force. Which I somehow feel isn't the case, judging from what others are running here
Nand pulley sizing also doesn't make much sense, unless every single person following protomaker/gadroc just never uses spring force past 50% ever
Noptimism is pretty much all I have at this point. I can't keep sinking time and money into this thing if there aren't even potential solutions I can pursue
WHave you tried spraying some silicone lube where the belt meshes with the pulley?
WMost likely the WarBrd grip plug pin(s) doesn't reach and make contact in the Rhino socket, have you pushed all the way in? Let me know if this persists, I can send you a replacement socket.
AYes - really extended out of the grip and pushed fully home. Same with a RealSimulator grip
AIts the second WarBrd grip too
Wso the TM grip works, but others not?
Ni don't have spray, but I have some superlube. Should I try putting a little on? But I thought the belt was not supposed to slip on the pulley, would that not exacerbate it
Wif it's silicone based then ok. Don't worry, with the correct tension lube wouldn't cause any issues.
Nwhat I have is just a tube of superlube 92003. It's advertised as silicone lubricating grease. Sounds like it would work?
HYou can also move the center point by altering the calibration values. I don't know what exactly you want to achieve, but I'm confident that it can somehow be achieved with the configurator.
HYou have new belts and pulley incoming anyway - so I would give it a try if I was you.
NI put some on the pulley and spread it around a bit. Didn't make any difference.
HJust a thought - how much current draw does the motor show when the grinding occurs?
WFrom the video, it definitely sounds like a belt/pulley meshing
Ncurr_x and curr_y?
Nthat is the idea, but I'm not sure where I would go from there. To a different tooth # motor pulley? I'm just following what @Subsonic (Protomaker) 's guide prescribes. afaik no one else following that guide has dealt with this before. The other gimbal creaking type issues I can find plenty of troubleshooting solutions for, but not this belt issue
WAs a last ditch effort I can supply you an original Rhino pulley
Ncould you just send me a spec page/size spec for it? just to double check
Ncurr_y goes up to about 17A at max deflection, + and - in either direction, no weird behaviour
Hthen you are certainly not overstressing the Rhino.
Nyes, on walmis' recommendation earlier I tried turning the motor+pulley by itself and everything was smooth
Nmight be gimbal related as well since I know this one is particularly bad and it's going to be rebuilt with some new parts next week. Might not be out of the question that vibrations are starting inside and traveling out to the belt via 74t pulley
HSorry, if this is a dumb question, or was answered earlier - are you 100% positive that you have the right belt and pulley specs? regarding tooth profile and so on?
Nit is most significant at the belt but that makes sense
Nyes, I've double checked with the guide, other people who built, and david's own rhino
N74t pulley, motor pulley and belt spec are correct, I now have 4 motor pulleys i've mix n matched at will
HHTD5 on both sides?
Nyes
Hok! sorry - better safe than sorry
WWe machine those pulleys in-house, it's based on the HTD5M spec
N15mm width, 12 tooth, 8mm bore? well, width depending on the belt of course
Wofficial Rhino belts are 10mm, 12T pulleys
Hthat's what I use.
HYeah, but it shouldn't make a difference.
H(the width I mean - as long both gears are the same size)
W
N@Hiob before you installed the gimbal in the enclosure, did the oval-shaped X and Y gimbal frames rotate freely and smoothly around the grip connector?
NI think mine was overtightened. My gimbal frames barely moved at all, took a lot of force to rotate them
Nie. the main nut, sitting all the way down in the core of the grip connector
HYes and no - there is a bit of a "round edge" when you try to deflect both axis at the same time. This is a geometrical thing due to how the gimbal works. Once you add an extension and grip this (very small) hump isn't there anymore (or can't be felt anymore). The inner oart of the stick connector needs o rotate slightly inside the outer part and also needs to move up and down (very very slightly) - that is what the flexible TPU part is for. A bit like a spinal disc. But without any weight and leverage, it can be felt.
HThat your gimbal was hard to rotate isn't right though
HIt should move easily.
HPerhaps the bearings weren't properly seated?
Nyes, it's that second type of rotation that I mean. Was it smooth? Or did it take a lot of force
I took a picture on day 1 and X/Y frames were slightly crooked, which had me a bit concerned not because it was crooked, but because it was very hard to rotate to get aligned again
I took a picture on day 1 and X/Y frames were slightly crooked, which had me a bit concerned not because it was crooked, but because it was very hard to rotate to get aligned again
Nit did not feel like there was a bearing in there at all. More like just a screw and nut.
H"A lot of force" - certainly not!