We machine those pulleys in-house, it's based on the HTD5M spec
We machine those pulleys in-house, it's based on the HTD5M spec
N15mm width, 12 tooth, 8mm bore? well, width depending on the belt of course
Wofficial Rhino belts are 10mm, 12T pulleys
Hthat's what I use.
HYeah, but it shouldn't make a difference.
H(the width I mean - as long both gears are the same size)
W
N@Hiob before you installed the gimbal in the enclosure, did the oval-shaped X and Y gimbal frames rotate freely and smoothly around the grip connector?
NI think mine was overtightened. My gimbal frames barely moved at all, took a lot of force to rotate them
Nie. the main nut, sitting all the way down in the core of the grip connector
HYes and no - there is a bit of a "round edge" when you try to deflect both axis at the same time. This is a geometrical thing due to how the gimbal works. Once you add an extension and grip this (very small) hump isn't there anymore (or can't be felt anymore). The inner oart of the stick connector needs o rotate slightly inside the outer part and also needs to move up and down (very very slightly) - that is what the flexible TPU part is for. A bit like a spinal disc. But without any weight and leverage, it can be felt.
HThat your gimbal was hard to rotate isn't right though
HIt should move easily.
HPerhaps the bearings weren't properly seated?
Nyes, it's that second type of rotation that I mean. Was it smooth? Or did it take a lot of force
I took a picture on day 1 and X/Y frames were slightly crooked, which had me a bit concerned not because it was crooked, but because it was very hard to rotate to get aligned again
I took a picture on day 1 and X/Y frames were slightly crooked, which had me a bit concerned not because it was crooked, but because it was very hard to rotate to get aligned again
Nit did not feel like there was a bearing in there at all. More like just a screw and nut.
H"A lot of force" - certainly not!
NWhich I now understand looking at the subsonic guide that there are back to back flanged bearings in there
NI suppose if it was assembled like that, then two weeks of use under high spring force might have broken something
Nsince yesterday i've loosened the nut a bit, but it seems to be too late
HI'm thinking more of the big bearings that hold the main gimbal frames.
Nthe big outer 6808s? hmmm they are still pretty smooth but i'll check next week
HIf those aren't perfectly seated - aka not perpendicular to the axis of rotation, it could make the whole assemble get stuck
HTo give you an idea - When I disassembled the gimbal to change the stick connector to my "stubby" version - after reassembling and only the 80mm grip connector as a "lever" - without belts attached, the gimbal moved freely and buttery smooth in every direction.
Nwith no belts attached, the gimbal has always been pretty smooth in linear x and y motion, no issues with the 6808 bearings there
Nbut with circular motion it has always had some issues with internal creaking that can be felt all the way up the grip
Nprobably at the beginning due to the grossly overtightened nut, maybe now due to internal damage
Noh well........the belts weren't expensive, at least 
HYou shouldn't overthighten the central bolt that connects the two core parts. I would even argue, that the bolt doesn't need to be fixated in the outer part at all - but I haven't tried that yet.
Ni'll certainly keep that in mind for the gimbal rebuild
Nwould honestly be helpful if there was a guide out there for how tight the main screws need to be
Nthe main bolt/nut of grip connector and core joint, the preload screws, etc.
HFor the free moving variant I have in mind, you would need a different outer core and bearings though. The "stock" gimbal works just fine. It is mainly the central bolt that connects the gimbal core that can't be overtightend.
Nhold on, are you using a 72T pulley? in combination with 12T motor pulley
HEverything else can and should be "moderately hand tight" as far as I'm concerned
HMe? Yeah the default one - 74T I think
KNope. I don't find anything in the configurator. I don't want a curvature in the force of the axis. I want a curvature in the value of the axis.
HI see. Well, generally speaking - that is undesirable with force feedback. Because a non-linear physical to logical position would mess up the ffb-effects (afaik). However - if it is the stick position in the forward trim that is concerning you, it may be worth considering to move the center point towards you, by manually changing the calibration value of the "push forward" position. I did that for the F-4 once, because it has a lot of forward trim and my arm was to short for comfort. Probably not exactly what you are looking for, but it may help to alleviate your problem.
AYes
WADone. Thank you.
NIMHO, even with regular sprung joysticks, curves are not the right solution to twitchy aircraft. Saturation works better. Unfortunately the saturation settings in DCS are also not compatible with FFB.
We have axis scaling in configurator, but it only allows for a positive saturation such that partial physical trave = full reported travel. It would also be useful to have negative capabilities such that full physical travel = partial reported travel.
You can accomplish this by manually increasing the calibrated range of the axis, but it would be nice to have a purpose built setting in configurator for doing so.
We have axis scaling in configurator, but it only allows for a positive saturation such that partial physical trave = full reported travel. It would also be useful to have negative capabilities such that full physical travel = partial reported travel.
You can accomplish this by manually increasing the calibrated range of the axis, but it would be nice to have a purpose built setting in configurator for doing so.
AAmazing service mate, thank you.
KI've found a workaround which make me happy until we found a better way.
I've described it here: https://discord.com/channels/965234441511383080/1098318539426889799/1258810327747924130
Maybe it is useful for other Hog drivers, too.
I've described it here: https://discord.com/channels/965234441511383080/1098318539426889799/1258810327747924130
Maybe it is useful for other Hog drivers, too.
KBut I think it should be useful to place a tip in the manual to disable curvatures in DCS for A-10C & Ka-50 (and probably other chopper with trimmer).
SI have mostly found creaking to be due to loose main gimbal bearings. Check all the retainers for tightness.
Dwhat does it want from me? 
SI get that message when I turn on my computer, but my Rhino isn't connected at the USB. Start there
SWait, did you already get and build your kit?
DYep