do we know if anybody ever tried to make a FFB throttle with the motor kits?
do we know if anybody ever tried to make a FFB throttle with the motor kits?
HSome auto throttles would be killer! Wonder how hard the challenge would be to get it syncing up to a sim properly.
HNot aware of any attempts at this yet.
GTotally agree! I would dig an autothrottle setup! I would think the the Super Taurus would be the one to work with since it has a self contained full length throw box.
HThat would probably be the easiest one to prototype an auto throttle setup... Could probably do it with a virpil throttle by removing the plate underneath and building a custom mounting box with the motors inside. Programming would certainly be another thing entirely...
Shonestly autothrottle was the initial thing i was exited for until i thought about it a bit: electronic detents. Currently ive got a WW orion throttle with the fingerlift kit installed which for aircraft that dont have an AB it kinda reduces the throwrange a bit and im just thinking how awesome it would be to instead of having physical detents having the motor in conjunction with telem create detents according to what aircraft you are using. A-10? no detents. You got one with AB bam it creates the detent where its on the real plane (or whatever its in DCS) and if it has AB gates telem could create slightly weaker subdetents for those gates.
Sand if you still want to have fingerlifts you could most likely integrate fingerlifts into the base which activate a switch that can be used as an detent override for pushing the throttle from idle to off for example
Syou could do that without all the FFB with a solenoid and a switch. It wouldn't be hot adjustible so you'd still have to tune every jet for it, but one switch to add or remove the gate would be handy
RAny news of the MFG Crosswind FFB? It's been a very long time
RThe official thing that was teased in December last year, not the scratch build from zero to hero in #
knowledge-base
knowledge-base
CI have asked a few times too. I think Walmis has sidelined it for what ever reason. Which I don't mind in the grand scheme, I appreciate the rhino and Telemffb. They are game changers. If you don't V3 of the MFG you can use Hiob conversion.
R@walmis What's going on
RI might have to give it a look but if it takes a lot of arts and crafting I can't do it. But FFB pedals would be nice, especially for helicopters
RYeah his thing has 3D printed parts. Unable.
CIts not hard to find someone who can print. I am sure someone here can help.
DGuys are out there any lefthanded players who use righthanded grips for flying simulation like VKB MCG ?
Thank you!
Thank you!
BAll of them.
![SR-F_Winger_[73]_David](https://cdn.discordapp.com/avatars/98037306870472704/f924b51d2e4486c1eb873c2f4fb7f6a3.webp?size=40)
S
think He meant left handedSouncan use any and all vkb grips with the rhino. Hiwever Not natively. oull need a Blackbox and the VPForce VKB adapter
Shello guys I was away for quite some time - few months - do we have new software for the rhino just saw the review from jabber for the monza FFB base and he featured a short piece for the rhino and he featured a software I haven't saw before ... is that something new?
StelemFFB was completely overhauled at the beginning of the year. no more editing text files! https://github.com/walmis/VPforce-TelemFFB/releases/
GitHub
DCS FFB Telemetry Effects (for VPforce FFB). Contribute to walmis/VPforce-TelemFFB development by creating an account on GitHub.
S
Swell its great flying this stick in a helicopter. I read and watched some stuff but I clearly am to stupid to find out how program the trim function to work. I have the trim release and the trim reset bound to up and down on lets say 4-waybutton A. That's enough vor my helicopters. But i also have bound my 4 buttons below the trim reset in de configurator on a 4-waybuttons say B vor when i fly aircraft. But its either both activated of non at all. I have hardware force trim ticked and override trim. I tried different combination together with buttons in the sim bound to trim of not. I cant understand how it works. In override trim, you don't bind any keys in DCS to the trim. You only use the hardware trim of the Rhino i believe. but the other trim buttons are active to on the mentioned button b (trim up,dw,lft,rgt). So i loose a button. How do i set this up so that button A up and down is trim release en trim reset when i fly helicopter. But NO function on button B (trim up/wn/lft/rght), and how do i engage the trim on button 2 for an aircraft but then no trim release of reset on button A). I tried videos,etc... guess I am no digital guy. But... anyway, Rhino is fantastic as is. Thx for the patient person to answer me.
S
Sso button A would be 128+132 and button B 160/162/164/166. Thx
SAnd atm I have no buttons bound in DCS.
NWhat you have set there is the hardware trim feature in configurator. As soon as you start DCS, all of that gets overridden by the DCS native spring effect.
You could enable the "sticky" option in the spring settings in upper left, but what you should do is set up your trim release/reset bindings in DCS. Since DCS has native FFB support, you don't need to use the hardware trim features in configurator.
The "override trim" option sort of acts as a "sticky" for those hat trim bindings, but here, too, you should bind them in DCS (but not many helis in DCS have hat/beep trims.. The MI-24 is the only one I know that does...)
You could enable the "sticky" option in the spring settings in upper left, but what you should do is set up your trim release/reset bindings in DCS. Since DCS has native FFB support, you don't need to use the hardware trim features in configurator.
The "override trim" option sort of acts as a "sticky" for those hat trim bindings, but here, too, you should bind them in DCS (but not many helis in DCS have hat/beep trims.. The MI-24 is the only one I know that does...)
Sthx, it works. (i had written it didnt, but i am a moron who switched the up and down button....)
BIt probably doesn't help dcs modules can vary between defining trim from a stick to nose perspective.
So depending on this the nomenclature for trim up/down become inverted.
So depending on this the nomenclature for trim up/down become inverted.
DI have a large motor waiting for the MFG STL file to make the motor support. Even if @walmis is not ready or able to make the kit could he consider to release the STL for the motor support and pulley so the DIY people can use it. I don’t like my large motor kit sitting around waiting for the 3D print parts and unfortunately I don’t have the design skills to do that myself.
RSimFab and OpenWheeler Officialmanager
Stick base mounts on SimFab seat frame center tube. Bracket replaces and deletes the standard “centered stick lower mount bracket”.
Jthat's really neat
V:package: 
RHINO #0669 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0669 Has Shipped!
RI stared at it too long and pulled the trigger, oops
RAnd the DCS rig kit it goes to
RGuess my nearly decade-long era of relying on fold-out tables and chairs is going to be behind me
RIs this just the plate or does it include other stuff. I’m wanting to use the plate to connect to some 4040 extruded aluminum
HAny owner of the DCS FC24 module able to shed some light to it's ffb support? Mainly curious for the sabre, mig15, f5 and f15c.
RJust the bracket. It connects to the seat frame they make
HI can trial the older FC stuff, I guess I'll do that first.
HI suppose the newer FC24 planes should have the same ffb support as their full fidelity counter parts, can anyone confirm?
RFor clarity, or at least my interpretation, the square frame that it's pictured with, it does not come with it. Despite being included in all the photos
RIf you want to buy a complete kit with that, get the Flight Sim Cockpit - DCS Edition. The $599 one. It's expensive but it has everything you need, including 3 different kind of universal adapter plates to mount other sticks/throttles. Except for the VPForce, they had to make a separate individual plate for that
RI tried to buy the parts individually to see if I could scrub some unneccessary stuff and save money (essentially instead of buying the cockpit kit, I buy the rudder kit, seat, frame, extentions etc and do it separately that way) but even without a right side mount, it still comes out more expensive than the big bulk cockpit kit.
RBetter to just roll with the $599 item and then tack on the VP adapter
HMaking your own rig from aluminium profiles can be a lot cheaper, but you’ll have to make a design of your own.
JYou can also just 1:1 rip existing aluminum profile design from places like Monster Tech or TrakRacer etc. Super easy by referencing their manuals. Even easier with a part list that gives dimensions.
Honestly the hard part is sourcing all the important parts like connectors etc.
Getting aluminum profiling in correct dimensions isn't hard, but figuring out the other stuff can be annoying if you are unfamiliar with it all. I still feel super lost trying to navigate the big supplier sites trying to find everything I'd need to DIY on my existing rig.
Honestly the hard part is sourcing all the important parts like connectors etc.
Getting aluminum profiling in correct dimensions isn't hard, but figuring out the other stuff can be annoying if you are unfamiliar with it all. I still feel super lost trying to navigate the big supplier sites trying to find everything I'd need to DIY on my existing rig.
AIf you can't find a suitable supplier who does uni connector bores (/can do them yourself), it's also an option to go with external corner brackets for everything instead.
Those are generally easier to find, and more flexible in slot dimension requirements etc.
Of course, like uni connectors, they have their own considerations.
The main thing is to find a suitable profile series, and to stick with that as much as possible.
(For example: 40-series metric, i-type slot-8).
Makes your life a lot easier.
Those are generally easier to find, and more flexible in slot dimension requirements etc.
Of course, like uni connectors, they have their own considerations.
The main thing is to find a suitable profile series, and to stick with that as much as possible.
(For example: 40-series metric, i-type slot-8).
Makes your life a lot easier.
RI built mine all from extruded aluminum 4040. It had been too bad to find components that work and match my 4040 aluminum is from the UK so I have to buy most everything online to be compatible. It’s really solid though.
RYeah, I just need the plate. I bought the one made by monster Tech, but I don’t like that. It only uses one side to secure the rhino.
JYeah there's various suppliers and most of the ones do cut stuff to your request including special things like threadings in various diameters, or to do cutouts for internal brackets (like what Monster Tech uses)