depends, when not doing anything the motors consume 0…most of the time mine are using just single di
depends, when not doing anything the motors consume 0…most of the time mine are using just single digit watts
![Prometheus [Prom]](https://cdn.discordapp.com/avatars/777496628579401739/90d1e9e0a05c7bafd59a74ba942bd870.webp?size=16)
Myea but in a dogfight you are putting constant force on the stick
Mand I was wondering about the amperage
HDepends on your settings. The motors can pull up to 30 amps (rated 36 amps, but some safety margin is good advise). They heat up rather quickly (1K every other second or so under full load) until the fan kicks in and slows down the heat buildup. (Or stops it depending on the FAN and the amount of amps pulled).
HDon’t confuse the motor amps with the amps drawn from the PSU though. They are not the same.
PHi my vpforce seems to be loose. I’ve confirmed that this sound is the vpforce and not the stick. Does anyone know how to fix this?
P
TUnscrew the dust cover, tighten all the screws etc that you can see without taking it apart.
HAnnoying micro movements or sounds that I found (and fixed) so far was: Loose screws on the stick extension, wide tolerances at the stick connector which I fixed with some tape and loctide, a crappy shaft connector on my TM grip which I fixed with some 3D printed wedges and last but not least, a loose pulley on the motor side, which needed some loctide for the screw.
Hsee if you can stop or produce the sound by moving the belt pulleys by hand (with and without holding tight on the stick). Before you open the Rhino check that the small pulleys sit tight on the motoraxis‘ without play,
Ajust be careful about overtightening
HMine does the same. I belive it is the 5mm washer that has the wrong Height to compensate the difference. I Ordered 0.1mm washers to adjust perfectly....
Hthat Picture was without washer, my washer was to thick, so after installing the other sides had the level difference
S
Sit was during a positive G pitch break cornering, on IL-2 GB
Swith those settings
S
Saaannnnd
S
Fhave you tried changing the settings as in getting rid of inertia and friction for example?
HAs I said previously. Spring setting 100%, coupled with those high settings for friction and damping etc. will most likely hit the max amp treshold. Would be interesting what the curr x and curr y values look like just before the cutoff.
WHmm, interesting. Can you cause this problem by just pulling the stick without a sim running?
PThanks for the help everyone! This was a pretty easy fix. These screws had loosened over time.
Syes, I just tried now, indeed I can.
Ssame log repports
S
SI have trouble with the configurator tool. It does not recognize the device. Every other software is kind of working, but not FFB Configurator. I have removed and/or uninstalled the devicee from device manager several times. I tried on all 6 USB ports the Computer has and also with and without usage of a powered USB Hub. Did a couple of cold boots also. Nothing helps. No I'm out of ideas somehow. On my laptop the joystick is working smothely.
SOK - issue found: I'm using a HF8 buttkicker from Next Level Racing. As soon as I disconnected her every thing starts working smothely... Seems like they are using a similar USB controller.
![Prometheus [Prom]](https://cdn.discordapp.com/avatars/777496628579401739/90d1e9e0a05c7bafd59a74ba942bd870.webp?size=40)
Pjust as an fyi, got my winwing adaptor back and my 8 way hat works fine and is seens as an 8 way hat, without making any changes to the settings…..perhaps I just got lucky 
other hats are buttons but thats fine too, of course
other hats are buttons but thats fine too, of courseHSimhub too scans com ports and make any other com based parts broken.
HYou need to define which COM ports shouldn’t be scanned
RHello, my Rhino isnt detecting any button presses of the warthog joystick anymore. Ive tried the joystick on the original warthog base and DCS detects all buttons but on the Rhino it goes silent.... The Rhino base is responding when there are axis inputs. FYI it went silent mid flight.
HI would assume, either the cable (to the grip connector) broke, or more likely, the cable detached from the socket-mini pcb that is inside the stick connector. I would dismount the grip (+ extensions). Then you can unscrew the socket inside the grip connector and take it out. On the backside there is a cable plugged in (or isn’t anymore). You can just pull out the cable with a pair of pliers and plug it back in.
Unless somebody else has a better idea that is!
Unless somebody else has a better idea that is!
WYeah, good call @Hiob, I'd check the the stick connector, maybe the mini socket has disconnected. I'd also lift the leather holder frame, since it's easier to feed the cable into the tube.
Rindeed good call... the cable from the mini socket was obstructed so the tension slowly made it disconnect. I pulled on the cable thinking there would be a few cm extra for good mesure and applied pressure on the connector.. next thing you know the inputs started getting detected again. Thanks for the support.
Shey there Walmis, did you see my screens from the logs? Maybe some ideas about my problem ? Thanks a lot
GSo I’ve got an issue I can’t figure out. My base seems to be centered in a stick down orientation. I’ve run the auto calibrate a few times and every time it is centering where in shows in this cell pic. Ideas?
XDid you "apply settings" after calibration ?
WIt works as it should. A game has set the trim center to that location as indicated by the blue circle.
GAh ok is there a way to adjust that? I’m in DCS. Feel like I’m flying with a very constant back pressure even when I try and trim it out.
GThis is in the F4 btw
GAlso, DCS was not like this before today. It was perfectly centered. I used a AH-64 profile in here which really seems to fly nicely in the Apache. But after going back to any of my fast jet profiles the trim center is off in the stick forward orientation
WDepends on the aircraft and special settings in DCS... A-10C, F-5 modules have trim displacement forwards for example.
You can search in this discord, there were multiple discussions regarding this topic
You can search in this discord, there were multiple discussions regarding this topic
GOk I’ll try and find it thanks. It’s just odd since I never changed any settings in DCS. Just was making adjustments in Configurator and Telemffb
HAre we talking woth this offset trim while DCS is running or not? I'm a bit confused. When you want to calibrate the hardware, neither DCS or TelemFFB should be running. Just the configurator. From there, after calibrating -> applying -> saving, the stick should be perfectly centered.
HThen - inside DCS, it depends very much on the airframe. Most old school jets have the stick trimmed forward for level flight at cruising+ speeds. That's normal. Same for Helicopters of course.
HMaybe you confuse the old "non-FFB" return to center trim in the sim, but that was only a work-around for spring centered, non-FFB-Joysticks.
HBasically, for classic joysticks, the logical (simulated) stick position was detached from the physical stick position. That being no longer necessary is one of the perks of FFB sticks.
Hwhat does "FBB_Remove Effect" Mean in the Debug Screen?
WIt's when a game or telemFFB destroys an FFB effect
Hso no reason to worry of to trobleshoot?