DThank you! I will do that..
HI somehow destroyed the threads on my 20 mm Virpil extension. Suspecting it’s not up to handling the forces of the rhino. Ordered a 10 mm straight extension now to see if it will hold. So word of warning there, even though the gooseneck looks awesome and feels good.
KI don't have any problem with it. But I don't use my Rhino as a muscle training machine. I like to have feedback not Arm wrestling. 
But that is personal taste.
But that is personal taste.
HPuny! No idea how I did it, truth be told. It just went wonky between the grip and extension. Maybe I’m just too awesome?
*Try to tighten the screws that connect virpil extension with the top of the extension with the threads... it's two separate parts and can get loose... I lost a few months of trying to tighten tge stick better to not have clinging left right... in the end, it was all about the top of the extension and not the threads or the grip... 
HOh snap. I’ll look into that. Can remember a screw on top. Somehow the grip started flopping to either side just a bit - like there was some play introduced. Extremely annoying.
*That's exactly it...
HGuys, the 200mm extension has two connecting pieces screwed in on either side. Those screws can become loose. Retighten them with some loctide. Also the TM grip (if used) has some annoying play in itself. If anybody has a problem with that, I can help.
HIf you destroy the threads by just using the Rhino as intended .... may god help you.....
V:package: 
RHINO #0712 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0712 Has Shipped!
HDid this happen in flight or during load-in???
*In flight... it tends to get this springy oscilation effect that seems to increase in force with every swing... something like microphony... just didn't hold it strong enough... slipped... hit the edge and the weight of the warthog grip was too much...
just didn't hold it strong enough... slipped... hit the edge and the weight of the warthog grip was too much... ![SR-F_Winger_[73]_David](https://cdn.discordapp.com/avatars/98037306870472704/f924b51d2e4486c1eb873c2f4fb7f6a3.webp?size=40)
SThere is really No reason Not to use telemffb. In fact thats where all the effects goodness cones from. You only Strip yourself of a big chunk of immersion and customisability effects wise by Not using telemffb
AThat sounds exactly like the effect I got when I’d upped some of the strength effects way too high in the beginning
VIs there info in the manual on how to get the rhino to keep stored profiles in my winwing grip? I keep having to reset my keybindings it seems like.
WWinWing grip doesn't have anything stored in it, can you elaborate what's happening with your keybinds exactly?
VIt just feels like i’m constantly having to rebind my buttons. Even after manually saving profiles inside dcs to the FFB. For instance i got in yesterday and after loading in a new profile on the config and starting up telemffb for the first time, all of my keybinds were gone in the KW and actually a few were bound to things i never bound nor would ever imagine binding them to. For instance the collective axis was bound to my left and right directions on my trim hat switch.
I just figured maybe there was something on my end that was causing the keybinds to keep getting changed.
I just figured maybe there was something on my end that was causing the keybinds to keep getting changed.
WCheck the the DCS input configuration files, maybe different Rhino profiles change the device ident and the game recognizes as a different joystick?
You can copy-paste the content from the lua files manually to restore the keybindings.
You can copy-paste the content from the lua files manually to restore the keybindings.
Bthis is likely the case. you can also just select load and then select your saved .diff.lua file
Bdcs will also assign [very poorly] defaults when it finds what it thinks is a new device
DI am going to do a new rig, and have been looking at the NLR Boeing rig... anyone NOT suggest this rig for the Rhino?
CI'd be careful. The new Boeing designs tend to fall apart...
DOuch! 
Aare there doors on it
VI have the Monstertech chair and love it
VThe Rhino is ROCK SOLID on it. Zero movement even under heavy loads
Xwhy not proper MTM Rig? NLR is scam
Xat least noname 4080 profile rig (or simracing), never go NLR, it's a waste of money
VYea i have a few buddies that have the NLR rig and they all have AT LEAST 2-3 decent complaints about it. That being said i’ve never sat in one so can’t say from experience.
XI had it for 4 months, luckily sold it, worst piece of *** i ever had
Xon the other hand, MTM Chair costs 1 grand, while "Boeing" !LOL! branded NLR is like 300-400.
Even tho MTM prices are biting, there is quality and expandability there, with NLR you locked into some bodge and figuring out how to overcome issues, it's not worth your time
Even tho MTM prices are biting, there is quality and expandability there, with NLR you locked into some bodge and figuring out how to overcome issues, it's not worth your time
DHmmm... guys I have talked to have had good experience with it, but I will look at others. It is as a secondary flight rig.
XI've bought 1k+ chairs, never regret, get MTM seat and (cordura) and proper 4080 rig, can be simracing
Xproblem with NLR is that they use square tube pipe, don't ask me how bad that design is compared to profile
XChair and RIg = not same thing, not same company at least
DI have a sim racing rig, just need one to mount the rhino on to use in VR for helos, A-10 and generic flight.
Xyou can get good TrakRacer rig for same money
Xit's the chair that makes a difference... you as virtual pilot/racer have only 3 contact points on rig:
- the butt aka the chair
- hands aka the Rhino
- foot aka the pedals
- the butt aka the chair
- hands aka the Rhino
- foot aka the pedals
Xthose 3 components have to be top noch, rest is subjective
DI have the chair, just need a frame to mount Rhino, throttle, pedals and UFC/keyboard.
Xthen get some TR160 baseline, it's a rig for life, for any upgrades
XTR120 is weavy, might cause issues, but 120mm profiles are more then enough, unfortunately TR switched to this wide body design that is kinda meh
Xand never get simlab angular standoffs also )
Xany 120/160 profile straight rig with proper 90 uprights will work
DTaking a look now.
XMTM has better features built in, if you can afford MTM, get atleast their baseline
Xthey have special cutoff and mount system for center joystick, worth extra. Simracing rig will require some mods to get work, mainly due to seating position, the angle between pedals and seat is much lower on simracing compared to MTM
Xon MTM you sit more upright, much more suitable for Flight, and also have some extra space under the seat. With simracing rig you need to order extra profiles to make it same height. In the end it will end up same cost as MTM
Xjust don't get extras, barebone works, you can add later whatever you need
DDamn! Yeah, MTM is quite a bit more than I wanted to spend since this is a generic setup.