As far as I know the qr4rig quick releases have a modular design - that means if you create the plate between the Rhino and the quick release plate yourself (3D printing, wood) you can freely choose placement and orientation (e.g. QRUHD Universal Quick Release Plate Kit (DIY) and using the hex pattern https://qr4rigs.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=24&products_id=140).
QR4rigs, Quick Release Mounts for Sim Rigs QRUHD Universal Quick Release Plate Kit (DIY) [QRUHDUniQR] - This QRUHD Universal Quick Release Plate Kit is designed to allow mounting of unsupported controllers on to our QRUHD Quick Release System and also provides a stable surface for mounting our QRDee Base Mount 40 or QRPro Base Mount 40 to enable...
Make sure it's fully powered via DC plug and e-stop switch is on (motors are running), the fans are one on the opposite side of the pic and one on the rear.
I ordered the Rhino's 8020 metal mount. The one side with the 2 bolts is snug to my 8020 but the other side has alot of slop or flex in it. The Rhino will bounce up and down when I stall a plane and it's kind of annoying. I tried placing some small rubber pieces between the metal but it still has slop in it. Should I just try to drill some holes and mount with more bolts? I can't really counter sink is though?
Related to metal mounts, any chance we can get a metal VKB adapter (gunfighter 4)? Would be great to have the peace of mind with metal. And then I could Frankenstein a VKB grip onto a RealSimulator base too…
very excited for my rhino to turn up over the last few days - could anyone point me in the direction of a good solution to mount it to a NLR flight seat pro? ive heavily considered just throwing some plywood underneath the seat and bolting the rhino to that but itd be a big pain in the ass so if theres someone that makes a mounting plate for the existing center mount on the seat or has another idea thatd be amazing
Could likely find a used ender 3 or something for $100. Sizeable area but lacks any automation so require learning what craft there is in printing but can definitely achieve great prints with the effort.
hi, a brand new bambulabs A1 mini is just 199,- bucks and far FAR superior to any Ender 3 kind of printer. Seriously don't save 50 bucks and get 20% of the performance.
Another vote for Bambulabs (owning a P1S with AMS as my third printer now): Their software is excellent, the handling is the easiest I have seen for years, the automated calibration and filament loading is really a gift, the precision of the prints out of the box is amazing. If you just want to print that's the way to go.
Another plus one for a Bambu Labs, just got a P1S myself, but I hear the A1 is good too.
And TheAmazingGreat, all I keep seeing is people complaining about Ender 3’s online, and basically now they’ve moved to a Bambu Labs printer they can finally start getting over the PTSD the Ender 3 gave them and now spend more time printing than tinkering and fixing stuff with the printer.
There is nothing per se wrong with an Ender 3. It is just not state of the art anymore. The manual bed leveling alone is a show-stopper today (before I got a Prusa MK4 for the office and later an A1 mini for private, I used an Ender 3 for a couple of years). If we were talking a big gap in money for a modern printer - of course an Ender is fine. You will get your stuff printed. Very slow, and not dimensionally perfect but still..... ....but as I said - a brand new A1 mini is just 50,- bucks over the budget given by @TeufelHunden . If that's a hard limit - well I would look for a used A1-mini. But honestly it would be wiser to find the 50,- bucks somewhere.
Of course an A1 mini comes with one shortcoming - It has only 180 bx 180 build plate. But I can count on one hand the times I needed more than that in the past couple years.