So could I build my own stick on my own hc165s and it would work?
So could I build my own stick on my own hc165s and it would work?
COr is the shift board doing some work before it gets to the controller
HIt is best to have the max spring force set in a way, that it will just be reached at max deflection (keep in mind, that friction et al. will also eat some current)
WIt's not entirely true, while the current is limited, the STABILITY fault usually occurs due to instability in the damper control loop, due to self oscillation/resonances
HI think we are talking about two different problems/faults here.
HSorry for the confusion.
HPerhaps it is best to settly one problem after another.....
HRegardless - I wouldn't recommend to bluntly put the spring gain to 100. Even if it doesn't tilt the motor, Reaching a force-plateau before the endstop just feels weird.
SPlugged into MB through a USB isolator. Today so far I did a half hour DCS session of touch & goes in I-16 at Tonopah without incident. No dogfights 
I will try the suggestions given above and report back. Thanks to all for the quick replies!
I will try the suggestions given above and report back. Thanks to all for the quick replies!
T9 times out of 10 seems like the issue is people using a USB hub, powered or not. Usually plugging directly to mobo solves issues with disconnects.
RWith the new update and the way you handling damper now, what are some good targets for those of us with really extensions who want to change the spring gain so it stronger in the middle? Keep the stick from oscillating I guess. Does changing the hz effect performance or is there is a risk vs benefits so to speak.
VIf you have a chance, would you mind posting your current settings that solved it for you? I am relatively new to all of this and probably shouldn't have updated my firmware yet, so I panicked a bit when I had the oscillation and did a factor reset to start over, but gimped my settings as a result. Thank you!
TIf you get in that situation in the future, you can import the default settings for the Rhino. There is a “default” profile when you click the import tab. If you accidentally saved over this, you can redownload the configurator.
For you I would suggest importing Rhino defaults, do your auto calibration and export as a new configuration (include calibration data with export). That will give you a good starting point to reset to in the future that has your calibration accurate for your device.
For you I would suggest importing Rhino defaults, do your auto calibration and export as a new configuration (include calibration data with export). That will give you a good starting point to reset to in the future that has your calibration accurate for your device.
TI’m not exactly sure if my settings would work for you since we have different set ups, that’s why the advanced tuning settings exist. I see them also as “adjust at your own risk” so be careful. If you hover your mouse over the text box or the “i” symbol it should give you some tips, pay attention to these.
You could start with: 🧰support
What worked for me was to slowly increase the vel and acc estimator gains until the oscillation went away, I ended up at vel:80, acc:40.
You could start with: 🧰support
What worked for me was to slowly increase the vel and acc estimator gains until the oscillation went away, I ended up at vel:80, acc:40.
VThank you - I will give this a "careful" go so that I don't have to disable friction in effects.
BIve seen a few comments about USB hubs and Rhino issues. Is this a general "dont use" rule? I was hoping to use a hub connected to the chair due to my situation (wont have a permanent pit). Itll be a bit of a bugger if I cant do this.
TJust my personal experience, but I was able to make the Rhino work on 3 different powered USB 3.0 hubs. HOWEVER, on 2 of the 3 hubs (including an "industrial" one) if I came close to maxing out the ports (even though I wasn't maxing out the available endpoints as far as I could tell with USB Device Tree Viewer) I would get disconnects from TelemFFB and the device would stop being seen as a game controller even though USB Device Tree Viewer still saw it.
TI still have the Rhino on a powered hub (Startech Industrial 10 port USB 3.0 w/ 65 watt PS) but I am only using 8 of the 10 ports. Adding any additional device causes issues. Note that I've got a Stream Deck XL on that same hub and it's a resource hog, so could be part of the issue.
B@tanr Thanks for the reply mate. Appreciate it
HI‘m running both, Rhino Stick and „Rhino“ Pedals from a USB 3.0 hub (unpowered). So far no issues.
B@Hiob Thank you Mate - what make/model?
Hwait….
HRSHTECH USB Hub Aktiv 3.0 mit Netzteil, Aluminium USB 3.0 Hub mit 7 USB 3.0 Ports, USB 3.0 Port Verteiler für Datenübertragung mit 10W (5V/2A) Netzteil, RSH-518-2
HI‘m using it without the power plug though
KI use this one, but was not brave enough to connect my Rhino Joystick and the RhinoMFG to it 
:
https://www.amazon.de/RSHTECH-Datenkabel-Daten%C3%BCbertragung-Professionelle-RSH-A13-5/dp/B0B8GN6XK8
But I will try it in the next days/weeks.
:https://www.amazon.de/RSHTECH-Datenkabel-Daten%C3%BCbertragung-Professionelle-RSH-A13-5/dp/B0B8GN6XK8
But I will try it in the next days/weeks.
USB Hub mit Netzteil, RSHTECH Aluminium USB Hub Aktiv 3.0 mit Netzteil 72W(12V/6A), 13-Port USB Hub Aktiv mit 100cm Datenkabel, zum Laden und Datenübertragung, Professionelle Business Grade, RSH-A13-5
HSeem to be the same apart from the port count
KI had a rule of thumb since some years with DCS and USB hubs: "Connect everything that has an axis directly to the motherboard usb ports or a good pcie USB card." I had really strange behaviors by using some USB hubs. But I want to slim down my cable management. So I will try it again.
BIve used my Crosswinds, Warthog Throttle and Virpi Stick without any issues in DCS for many years using a powered 7 port TP-link hub. Worst I get on boot up is a funky stick but unplgging the usb sorts it instantly. Im hoping this continues with the Rhino though I will likely upgrade the hub (hence the asks) for those non VR moments when I have to drag out the TIR and headphones.
HSometimes I think, it is not the Hubs that are problematic but other devices on the same line.
HThen again there are cockpit builders, that daisy chain a dozend usb hubs without issue (seemingly)….. I don’t know. Astrology 
BThank you for the quick answers. My Rhino is imminent though I wont be able to use for a few more months. My next mission is seeing if Monsterstck can accomodate a wider cutaway in their MFC-1. Dont ask dont get.
TYou need to add an inverter on the CS for HC165 (inverter goes between pin1 of HC165 and VPF main board) the VPF shift register boards I bought had the HC165 with the inverter.
The alternate option is to build with CD4021B shift registers.
The alternate option is to build with CD4021B shift registers.
CYeah I’ll likely rebuild mines with the VPforce board, just to simplify things
CIt’s been ordered at any rate so 
CIn terms of connectors, can I wire up a ps2 type connector straight to the board? R or do I have to make up a jst type plug for the run
SI made changes to my Setting & Effects as suggested and have not had motor go offline today. Thanks all
TMy control inputs aren’t giving me the desired roll rate or pitch rate. Is there a way to adjust that?
HToo much or too little per Stick movement? Which Aircraft?
DHello, is it normal that the stick is dead in the ov10? No spring, like if I was in the menu and only read position
WIt probably doesn't have FFB implementation. You'd have to make a sticky spring or use telemFFB spring override
DWouldn't it be possible to add a file in the mod folder or change one just so that it has basic implementation from the game ?
Dlike copying another plane ffb implementation?
WNot sure how open-source the ov-10 is, but FFB stuff requires dealing with FM code in C++
WFound some references in community A-4 mod: https://github.com/heclak/community-a4e-c/blob/a83948d86ea234b9143a97d2cbd2f8f3a099987c/A-4E-C/ExternalFM/FM/Scooter.cpp#L1038
GitHub
The Community Repo for A-4E-C and its Official Submods - heclak/community-a4e-c
R@walmis Is it still possible to add something to my order?
WHi, DM me your order number
T@Hiob Too much or too little per Stick movement? Which Aircraft? F 18 Too little
DOkay that's beyond my competence but thanks
HYou could manually reduce the (raise the lower and reduce the higher values) values of your calibration and save that profile specifically for the Hornet. That would give you more reaction per movement. Also for FBW-Aircraft, you might try to make the spring sticky and
Hrely on the effects by TelemFFB
Tsorry, where do i find the calibration values