Yeah its so strange. First thing I would try is just copying over the build
Yeah its so strange. First thing I would try is just copying over the build
Nsomething unrelated that occurred to me this morning when I read your wishlist post about the loopback app.
Your cyclic and collective grips are technically the same device ("arduino micro") right?
Something I added into TelemFFB a while ago that might help you...
The master instance also sends the button press events it sees to the child instances. So with the loopback app running with the arduino as source and your joystick as destination you should be able to bind the collective TR press in the collective TelemFFB instance without having a second loopback app running connected to the collective.
Since the joystick instance of loopback should also see the button presses from your collective grip, the master instance of TelemFFB will send those events to the collective instance.
Your cyclic and collective grips are technically the same device ("arduino micro") right?
Something I added into TelemFFB a while ago that might help you...
The master instance also sends the button press events it sees to the child instances. So with the loopback app running with the arduino as source and your joystick as destination you should be able to bind the collective TR press in the collective TelemFFB instance without having a second loopback app running connected to the collective.
Since the joystick instance of loopback should also see the button presses from your collective grip, the master instance of TelemFFB will send those events to the collective instance.
HI'm definitely going to give this a shot.
H@Number481 Any possibility to link dual controls and have them move accordingly without having a phsycial mechanical connection I.E software?
NTelemFFB isn't really designed in a way that would accommodate that and it only understands a single instance each of joystick/pedals/collective. It would be quite an overhaul to put the right pieces in place. And even then, you would need some means of manual handoff to know which was acting as the master at any point in time. It wouldn't be possible to have them both active and following each other at the same time.
HI wonder how brunner is doing it. They must sense pressure and see which is applying force and the software takes it from there. I could always mechanically link but I fear it may put too much stress on the motors even though they are 86s
Nnot sure unless there is some sort of deadzone between the two. The spring effect is responsible not only for providing the spring force, but is also what drives the center of the stick. If you had both following eachother you would end up with a feedback loop that would result in them following eachother but with no felt spring force since the center position of one would feedback into the other as you move it.
LYou shouldn't have to open it. I glued the connector back to the plastic part with locktite, has held for 1½ years.
FWill try that. Thanks
HYouTubeRotor - Sims
In this video I show you how to balance your rhino spring to work properly for the H145 and H160
FAwesome video! Can't wait to see you fly using the full setup.
HThanks for watching! Next are the anti torques. Still have to order a 2nd seat for the sim lol. Just bought a gentex heli helmet from my friend Phil in Germany.
FThis solved it for me. Cheers. 
CGreat video and such a beautiful cockpit!!!! Wow! So awesome!
HReally appreciate the video. A great explanation of something I haven't done much about when flying the AH64 in DCS.
AThere’s a few things to be careful of in that video tho: for starters, his power settings are for the large motors, I recommend most users shouldn’t mess with the default power settings unless you built the large motor kit.
Another thing - it shows calibration but never talks about force compensation which is also important. When forces increase, full deflection of the stick won’t trigger your max axis range
Another thing - it shows calibration but never talks about force compensation which is also important. When forces increase, full deflection of the stick won’t trigger your max axis range
HSo dont touch 30 / 7 for motor current / psu current that are the defaults then. And thanks for the clarification. I do like the "feeling" of the stick after having worked with the settings and static force. I found my 20 mm gooseneck and virpil grip to require way less balance spring than him.
AYup! The default power settings are all you should need and anything much higher will probably exceed the limits of your power supply or motor. I imagine it won’t damage anything, but probably prematurely shut down? Someone who’s more knowledgeable about that could probably weigh in
A(Assuming your rhino is one that Walmis built)
HLovingly built by the man, myth and legend himself 
HThanks for watching and the kind comments! It's one heck of cockpit!Alot of work but worth the effort!
RWhy is this? If you hold trim release you can then go full length axis.
HGlad it can help and thank you for watching!
ASo forget about helicopter specific stuff for the moment. If spring forces are at their strongest, there’s gonna be some stretch and flex in the system, which will mean when you physically move the stick to full deflection against that force it will register the axis digitally around maybe 90% instead of 100% like you calibrated
RYeah, in DCS I’ve noticed in the 58 and 64 and OH six that if I’ve trimmed to the center where it is when you start the game or I reset my trim. I can take my cyclic and move it all the way to the left and right and four and afterand in the VP for software the little circle will go to its full access link however in the game with Short about 25% now do the same maneuver while holding trim release and the VP for software and DCS match up one to one. It’s really weird.
HIf you set the PSU current of that of your power supply with some head room you shouldn't be experiencing any overheating and shutdown. The 30 amp can be set for the motor. It's safe to do. With heli, constant power really isn't an issue and you set your globals very high but if your effects are low you are fine. It can be a problem if you globals and effects are set all to 100%
RI can make a video to help tomorrow when I get off shift
AYou can work around this by either adjusting force compensation or by manually changing the calibration so it hits 100% earlier than full deflection
RHow do I do either of those?
ASure, I’m just saying our babby rhino power supplies are rated much lower than yours
AMax PSU Current should be around 6 or 7 I believe
A(Not at a computer atm)
AIt’s a bit more involved, not hard, just annoying to explain over text
RMakes sense can you put me in the direction of a resource? If one doesn’t exist, I can hop one in a few days after I get off work.
AI’m just about to take off :KEK: so later on I can probably write up a bit more
HI speak about the PSU current in the beginning. You set your PSU based on what you use. If you happen to be on 220v the amperage draw will be half.
RThanks Homie. I appreciate that. Be careful and enjoy wherever you’re going.
AJust returning home, was in Germany with family, but back home to California
HThis depends on what your are using and what voltage you are running. You have to look at the specs of the PSU and set accordingly so the controller will not request more than what the PSU is capable of delivering. The kits don't come with a PSU unless you buy a fullt built unit from Walmis. If you are building yourself, it's user preference on the PSU. 220v if you have it is much better. Cuts the amperage draw in half which is nice.
AThat’s precisely what I’m talking about. I’d reckon most people here who have rhinos have a power supply from walmis or bought one based on the prebuilt rhino, so those numbers aren’t going to be copy paste for most people. Thus my warning is all.
HNo worries at all. Definitely not copy and paste. Settings need to be checked. I'll post and pin a comment on the vid just in case. Have a safe trip back.
RInteresting. I'd never thought about a balance spring since I don't have an extention for my setup. But definitely looks handy
HDefinitely needed with an extension or any offset grips at least for Heli. Not sure if you would need it for airplanes.
RMotors going offline from time to time: device firmware v1.0.17b12
R
RTemps: 28-32°C, also happened under usage situations.
HLoose connection?
FRight. I'd definitely check the wiring to make sure the power cables are firmly connected to the board.
When the disconnect happens it would be good to see the voltages on the configurator in case maybe the problem is the power supply or a faulty e stop switch.
When the disconnect happens it would be good to see the voltages on the configurator in case maybe the problem is the power supply or a faulty e stop switch.
.could the use of an much stronger PSU with an output of 14.6 amps at 24V , but set in the software to 30Afor motors (57BLF03) and max PSU current 8.0A be the cause for my system to get Fault_Unstable and Fault_UNDERVOLTS codes?
.the 57BLF03 specs stated its rate amps is 15A . Do you guys believe is safe to increase the PSU current to 14A to prevents motors from stoping due undervolts?
.I had been leaving the power settings to rhino default setting since the beginning , but now im starting to get this faults codes...